Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit) (4 Viewers)

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Can you please explain what you are saying the issue is in more detail? Or better yet take a video of it and post it?

I will have to go back through the thread when I am not on my phone but you haven’t made any changes to the fuel system? Fuel pump, injectors, etc?

Any chance you have a way to measure fuel pressure?
Correction: I do not have a fuel pressure sensor. I have an oil pressure sensor
Sure. I'll take a video of it running later after work showing my PLX device monitoring AFR, Exhaust temp, boost/vac, Coolant Temp, and oil pressure.

Guess it's time to see if I can buy a PLX fuel sensor to add to my growing sensor collection.

I've driven over 15k miles with no problems till now.

Fuel Pump is using the upgraded Kyosan Fuel Pump (Supra Denso modified for 700+HP). Stock injectors with new orings/seals.
 
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One thing I forgot to mention was I pulled the plugs to and checked for fouling. Plugs looked good for 15k miles on them. This was one additional troubleshooting step I did to diagnose my rich condition.

I originally used copper antiseize on install, hence the copper color (not burnt). Reinstalled with nickle based antiseize when I put them back in.

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Borrowed a fuel pressure testing kit. About to tear into it.

I read this thread.

I did have this p0401 code 2 months ago when I changed out my modulator and the code went away. I wonder if my injectors are leaking.



Well know soon when I do a pressure test.
 
I had issues with over fueling when I installed a Walbro 460, way too big for my application. I ended up going an adjustable fuel regulator FPR800 and adjusted to my needs. Nothing wrong with the factory one for boost but happy with the turbosmart one. How did you check the fuel pressure while running? Do you still have the standard fuel resistor connected?
I followed these from the FSM
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It's been awhile from my past update. I've tried so many different things and threw $ and new parts at it to get the rich codes to go away.

2x new sensor knocks
ECT Coolant temp sensor. Bought it for both coolant sensors
1 was original and the other was practically brand new during turbo install. But I didn't want to take a chance and bought a new one anyway.
TVV was new (turbo install) so i didn't change that.
Did a fusible link just in case.
Put my trail spare MAF and trail spare ECU.


Did a test drive and filled up some fresh 91 and did a test drive. All seems to be normal again.

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I had issues with over fueling when I installed a Walbro 460, way too big for my application. I ended up going an adjustable fuel regulator FPR800 and adjusted to my needs. Nothing wrong with the factory one for boost but happy with the turbosmart one. How did you check the fuel pressure while running? Do you still have the standard fuel resistor connected?
I followed these from the FSM
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A larger fuel pump should not effect over fueling. The FPR job is to regulate that. Larger fuel pump will just be there to supply it with ample fuel to feed the turbo from 6psi all the way up when and if I turn up the boost. The extra fuel will actually add as a bonus cause the extra unused fuel not injected will just circulate back to the fuel tank. Gas will help cool the system down as it flows.

I borrowed my buddies Motiv fuel pressure kit. Hooks up to a machine for fuel injection cleaning. I just used the gauges to do a pressure running test and a injector leak down test. I just disconnected the line going to the fuel filter in. Then connected it in line.

I was in spec for fuel pressure test. My injectors and orings and everything else in the system held over the listed spec in the FSM.

I was in spec for fuel pressure
 
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The one time I got lazy and didn't nut and bolt and just drove home. I started noticing start of a death wobble and finally broke down to do a nut a bolt check. As soon as I put a wrench I snapped a stud. Luckily I was able to tap it out with a punch and some heat.

Put new knuckle studs and hardware. Everything was reused and my bearings and seals have less than 25k on them. Installed wits end nut huggers so I don't have to worry again.

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I was not so lucky on the driver side. A few studs were stripped out. I pulled out my trail spare and just bolted it up and used new hardware.

I also bought new OEM rotors and EBC Blue Stuff 100 series pads. It stops really nice now with all this weight. It has been sketchy stopping my 3k ton pop-up trailer. Trailer has trailer brakes and I use a brake controller. I'm hoping the bigger 100 EBC Blues will make a difference. Rears are about 25k with EBC 80 yellows and plenty of life still.

The pic below shows EBC yellows 80 front pads vs EBC blue 100 front pads



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I was not so lucky on the driver side. A few studs were stripped out. I pulled out my trail spare and just bolted it up and used new hardware.

I also bought new OEM rotors and EBC Blue Stuff 100 series pads. It stops really nice now with all this weight. It has been sketchy stopping my 3k ton pop-up trailer. Trailer has trailer brakes and I use a brake controller. I'm hoping the bigger 100 EBC Blues will make a difference. Rears are about 25k with EBC 80 yellows and plenty of life still.

The pic below shows EBC yellows 80 front pads vs EBC blue 100 front pads



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No ARP knuckle bolts ?
 
No ARP knuckle bolts ?
Naa this cruiser got OEM knuckle studs.

The crawler80 got ARP studs. I worry about that more since it's on 39s hydro assist and almost always nut bolt that thing cause I'm worried about it snapping studs. This one's on 35s. Maybe I need to apply the same religious nut and bolt like I should be doing now that it failed on me.

I never had problems with my mini truck knuckles and that was on 37s and hydro.

My fault for being lazy
 
Naa this cruiser got OEM knuckle studs.

The crawler80 got ARP studs. I worry about that more since it's on 39s hydro assist and almost always nut bolt that thing cause I'm worried about it snapping studs. This one's on 35s. Maybe I need to apply the same religious nut and bolt like I should be doing now that it failed on me.

I never had problems with my mini truck knuckles and that was on 37s and hydro.

My fault for being lazy
I need to check mine, I wheeled all week at Cruise Moab and never put a wrench on them 🤷‍♂️ Easy to get Lazy
 
Brake update:

EBC BlueStuff 100 pads grip way better than the EBC Yellow 80 pads. Stops quicker and faster and I thought EBC 80 yellows stopped good compared to OEM pads when I did the initial upgrade. The brakes are pretty noisy right now as I have NO shims in because of the brand new 100 series pad thickness. I'm thinking at 1000 miles I will try and squeeze in the shims again to get rid of the squeal. Still breaking in the pads and will BED in them in the next 50miles. I have not tried an emergency stop yet but I'm sure I will shave off at least 2 feet or more stopping distance.

I already know that these Blue 100s are the next upgrade for my Crawler80 as braking performance on 39s suck even with ABS delete.
 
Derale trans cooler worked great while towing. It kept the engine temps down on hard steep passes. It kept total engine temps at 217 under 100% load. Cruising freeway temps 197-204 around 60-70% load. City streets with stop lights around 182-195. Fan switch is hooked up to my SwitchPro and I can turn it on/off at will. It stays off while not towing. I believe with the new cooler/lines it added about 1.5-2qt's of fluid capacity.

Added a couple recent trips where I took the trailer.

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Marlin Roundup got canceled again for the 3rd year in a row. Already had time off so we decided to switch it up and make a different trip this year. I left the Crawler80 at home and took the Turbo80.

Not much work on this truck except for another oil change and 7qt trans fluid change. Cheaper to change the fluid and keep it happy than a new transmission. I think the last time I did the trans fluid was 2 years ago when I tore apart the trans to put the Transglo shift kit. I think because I do tow with the 80, I need to do trans fluid changes every 15-20k miles.

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