some h55f and split case tech (1 Viewer)

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I think I did both split case and trans with two gallons.

I did the whole truck front to back with a 5 gallon pail and had some left over when I used GL4.

I had a lot of material on the transmission magnetic plug, I know the magnet caught it all but I felt better just doing a break in oil swap.
Two gallons is correct. 4 gallons for complete drain and refill after break-in
Unless you are a dumba$$ like me and put the rear main seal in backwards on your transfer case and paint a nice centrifugal line of oil all over the bottom of your truck, driveway and roads around your house.
 
T case is about 2.5 litres
H55 is about 5.0 litres
fr diff 3.0 litres
rr diff 2.5 litres
Toyota Land Cruiser - metric. Don’t use gallons. 🤨
lemme know where I can buy it in Litres here...and i promise i will!!
 
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I've keenly read through most posts on this thread and it has been highly enlightening, I can only say thank you to Georg and others for sharing.

I do have a few questions though which I didn't find in the thread.

First question, is there a clear date cutoff between 34 mm and 38 mm idler shafts in the transfer cases? Or is it different with vacuum and non vacuum cases? Is the 38 mm idler an update / improvement?

Here's my situation: I have a 1989 BJ60RG-KRC (General market, right hand drive, the only BJ60 to get the 3Bii). It originally came with an H41, though the previous owner has thankfully had it converted to an H55F.

The transfer has a 38 mm idler and was originally a vacuum type, but has been converted to direct shift type to match the transfer shift lever of the original H41 (I assume). There is no modification to the cutout in the transmission tunnel, and the transfer shifts fine, with the detent spring / cap in place (to be honest I have not checked the spring and ball but there is clearly a detent when moving the shaft).

On the side of my H55F there is a casting mark '17 93' which I assume means it was made in the 17th week of 1993, long after the 60 was out of production. I therefore believe that at least the H55F came from an HZJ7*. The transfer case however has a serial number starting 7I which I understand means 09/87. Thats earlier than the car (07/89), and way before the H55.

So to my other questions.

-I might want to buy a 38 mm direct shift type (non vacuum) case, does such a thing exist? Does anyone have a part number? I can find 1989 BJ7*s with direct shift transfer case 36103-60140, is this a 38 mm idler case?

-Does anyone have a Toyota part number for a blanking plug to fit the port for the smaller of the two now obsolete vacuum shift sensors?

-I'm missing one of the small wire clamps which sit behind one of the bolt heads on the transmission shifter housing / cover. I think the correct part is 90461-08430 but that part is NLA, does anyone know the number of a suitable replacement?

Apologies for so many questions, I appreciate any answers!

EO
 
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Ok, well the plot thickens...

I just scraped off some dirt / oil paste from the front of the transfer case (every possible seal and gasket on this seems to be leaking) and found no bolt holes for a vacuum shifter. Given that I have the (tail-less) pair of sensors found on the vacuum shift type of transfer, I have to conclude that my transfer case is made from mis-matched halves!

Now, I think the vehicle has been like this for many years, and it seemed to drive OK. I heard no strange noises, but only drove it a few times before tearing the whole thing down for restoration. So it seems to have been a happy marriage.

However, when I come to tear it down, what signs should I be looking for that things are not quite aligned? Unusual wear patterns where the bearings are pressed into the case?

Sorry for the lack of pictures, I only have a phone connected to the internet and the website does not respond to clicking the picture button.

Thanks again

EO
 
and one more tidbit about the h55fs. even when i buy a new trans from the dealer, i remove the 5th gear extension housing and apply some loctite "formula 518" to the gasket. i've seen a few of these transmissions leak between the main case and extension housing and i've heard a few people complain about it. doing this only takes 20-30 minutes ( if you get interrupted by customer phone calls :lol: ) and it's well worth the effort! you have to remove the 5th gear detent screw, spring and check ball but none of the linkage or levers. pretty simple really.

here's a crummy pic. sorry, all of these were taken with an iphone.....

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
Hi everyone!

Anyone in socal (I'm in San Diego) have experience in working with these H55f swaps? I'm currently upgrading from my '83 FJ60 4-sp to a new 5-sp, and I'm having an issue where the end of the H55f main gear shaft doesn't have perfect clearance when we tighten down the transfer gase thus pressing on the end of the shaft where it sits into the oiler. I'm only missing 1/8" or so of clearance, as we can still tighten down the transfer case. housing.

Is there a possibility that the transfer case on my '83 was made for a "thinner" shaft to seat I to the oiler impression on the housing?

Any help would be hugely appreciated.
 
Test fit the input gear first. I've experienced a new h55 output is a thousand larger and took a touch with a flap disk to get the gear all the way on. Prussian blue layout ink can help. It comes in a spray can.Go slow and steady. Others will chime in I'm sure. @orangefj45 any tips? Georg has prob put more together than anyone. I recall having to sand the output shaft of my toy box and the output shaft of my h55. Do not force it or the gear will forever be stuck.
 
Hi everyone!

Anyone in socal (I'm in San Diego) have experience in working with these H55f swaps? I'm currently upgrading from my '83 FJ60 4-sp to a new 5-sp, and I'm having an issue where the end of the H55f main gear shaft doesn't have perfect clearance when we tighten down the transfer gase thus pressing on the end of the shaft where it sits into the oiler. I'm only missing 1/8" or so of clearance, as we can still tighten down the transfer case. housing.

Is there a possibility that the transfer case on my '83 was made for a "thinner" shaft to seat I to the oiler impression on the housing?

Any help would be hugely appreciated.

So you are having interference issues with the H55F countershaft hitting the front case half of the Tcase at the 5th gear oiler?
Where did you buy your parts? Have you reached out to them for tech support? Are you doing the work yourself? Was the transmission purchased new ( OEM Toyota ) or is it a rebuilt unit?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
 
So you are having interference issues with the H55F countershaft hitting the front case half of the Tcase at the 5th gear oiler?
Where did you buy your parts? Have you reached out to them for tech support? Are you doing the work yourself? Was the transmission purchased new ( OEM Toyota ) or is it a rebuilt unit?

Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Hi Georg, doing the work with the help of a local mechanic. Yes, very end of shaft just touching the outside edges of the oiler, almost as if the Tcase was designed for a slightly thinner shaft. Brand new H55f OEM, mated to the existing '83 T-case.
 
Hi Georg, doing the work with the help of a local mechanic. Yes, very end of shaft just touching the outside edges of the oiler, almost as if the Tcase was designed for a slightly thinner shaft. Brand new H55f OEM, mated to the existing '83 T-case.
Incidentally, the 5th gear oiler indent in the Tcase housing from your picture earlier in this thread (from many years ago) actaully looks a little wider, with more space for a shaft to sit. It also has an additonal bolt hole in the housing versus what mine looks like. Here's a recent pic from my Tcase housing.

20210831_112516.jpg
 
I’ve built lots of these combos with 34 and 38mm tcases and have never run into this issue.
I’d say you have a problem with the transmission, not the Tcase.
Maybe see if the outfit you bought the trans from will let you exchange it for another unit.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
 
Incidentally, the 5th gear oiler indent in the Tcase housing from your picture earlier in this thread (from many years ago) actaully looks a little wider, with more space for a shaft to sit. It also has an additonal bolt hole in the housing versus what mine looks like. Here's a recent pic from my Tcase housing.

You have the late 82/early 83 t-case. But it should still work fine. Did you try bolting it up without the oiler cup to see if that works?
 
are the dowel pins fully seated?
 
As cruisermatt suggests, try it without the oiler. They certainly are a plus, but not completely necessary. Lots of land cruisers around the world were built without them and are still driving around.
 
To further muddy the waters...Just took apart a brand new vacuum shift case to install some 10% OD gears before it gets bolted behind a 6l80e... turns out Toyota actually switched back to bushing supported output gears for 2007-up application.

Also noted that the output shaft range selector splines wet back to the "pinched" design that @orangefj45 has noted as being necessary for the low range gear installs (88-90 applications have straight splines).

I also see questions asked about the heat marks on the selector all the time - well this is what a brand new one looks like :)


C0894523-9053-4009-ACAF-45053D6802B4.jpeg
B2CB1600-35D5-4F04-BC34-F0115B11A55A.jpeg
54735507-FF33-4B4E-B353-01D8156CD88E.jpeg
B1F9D4E2-9CEB-4C8D-9102-A6ECB98B71F4.jpeg
 
To further muddy the waters...Just took apart a brand new vacuum shift case to install some 10% OD gears before it gets bolted behind a 6l80e... turns out Toyota actually switched back to bushing supported output gears for 2007-up application.

Also noted that the output shaft range selector splines wet back to the "pinched" design that @orangefj45 has noted as being necessary for the low range gear installs (88-90 applications have straight splines).

I also see questions asked about the heat marks on the selector all the time - well this is what a brand new one looks like :)

Did H55F transfer cases ever have roller bearings in the output shaft gears? I thought they only came from split case transfers found behind auto boxes.

But the bigger mystery is who wants a vacuum shift transfer... each to their own I guess :D
 
But the bigger mystery is who wants a vacuum shift transfer... each to their own I guess :D

Owners who want their dash button and glove box shift instructions to be stay original 🤷

It’s a perfectly reliable system if actually maintained, aka used more then once a decade.
 

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