some h55f and split case tech (3 Viewers)

[Eurasiaoverland]

Finally I have a few hours to assemble, maybe I'll get it back together tonight.

Now, what are the two smaller o-rings for? Large one goes on idler shaft.
View attachment 1085375

Medium is for the outside of the speedo "bullet"

Small one doesn't get used.

The aluminum crush washers are for the fill/drain plugs.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

Perhaps this was meant only in the context of rebuilding the transfer case, but in case anyone is wondering, the small o-ring is actually for the reverse gear idler arm shaft which comes through the side of the transmission case. The small O-ring goes between the case and a plate washer.

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

As one should, I followed @orangefj45 advice and popped the 5th gear housing off of my new h55f so I could add some sealant to reduce the chance of future leaks, and I’m very glad I did because here’s what I found:

View attachment 3211541
View attachment 3211542
View attachment 3211544
View attachment 3211545
(Original (new w/transmission) gasket vs the one I replaced it with)

Needless to say, I’m glad I spent the time to pull the extension housing off, as I have little faith that the gasket and corroded surfaces in the housing would have been free of leaks once in service.

As to the cause, I can only speculate. I did have this transmission stored for almost a year, and if that happened while in storage, perhaps it was a result of condensation accumulating between the close surfaces there when there was a swing in temp or humidity. This was the only place with corrosion on the transmission though. Could also have been there before I received the unit from Toyota, but no way to know.

In any case, it took more than 30 mins but I was able to bring it back to acceptable condition by resurfacing the affected areas and replacing the gasket.

In my excitement to get that fixed and to finally start assembly of the tc onto the transmission, I left the 5th gear oil pipe off the front case half. Oops! Didn’t realize till I quit for the night around 11:30, with the front tc half mated to the h55f, and I was back in the house washing my hands. Back out to the garage, pull the front case half back off, add the oil pipe(!!!), redo gasket seal, reassemble and torque, then to bed.

Thanks for this tip (and others), Georg! I’m certain you saved me from some headaches down the road

@cjmoon @tornadoalleycruiser

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

@Flatlanderfj40 yep.. you won't have the drip like my h55.. in my defense, my drip is the front nose cone of the h55 tho..

 

[NOSAJ]

Maybe I’m over thinking this but I don’t have a fsm. What is the torque value for this nut and both nuts for the front and rear drive flange before I stake these nuts? I have the page which talks about the shim pack for the rear bearing but couldn’t find the value for these. I thought I remember someone posting a bunch of free fsm but couldn’t find them quick. Thanks!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

View attachment 3253956
Maybe I’m over thinking this but I don’t have a fsm. What is the torque value for this nut and both nuts for the front and rear drive flange before I stake these nuts? I have the page which talks about the shim pack for the rear bearing but couldn’t find the value for these. I thought I remember someone posting a bunch of free fsm but couldn’t find them quick. Thanks!

All three are 127 Nm.

 

[NOSAJ]

Thanks @Eurasiaoverland !

 

[orangefj45]

More split case tech!

I just started other thread about installing a new OEM late model split case onto the back of a short 19-spline H42 4-speed trans.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Short H42 4-speed with late model 38mm split case build/tech

I thought I’d share some more tech info from our daily work here at the shop. Earlier this week I started building another transmission and Tcase combo for a long time friend; @wngrog The requirements for this combo going into an FJ40 build: 1981-1984 short 19-spline output H42 New OEM...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Some interesting wear on a rear split case half. This came from a poorly maintained unit with worn out output shaft gear bushings. The low range gear bushing in particular has so much slop that I wonder if its not completely gone.

This is the rear bore for the idler gear shaft (38 mm version). One half has an oddly worn texture, as if it had been pounded over time. There was a noticeable wear ridge all around, most noticeable in the pictured worn area.

Another thing to check when rebuilding. This case is junk in my opinion. There was noticeable slop in the idler shaft when installed. I could slip a 0.05 mm feeler in all round, and in this worn area I'm sure I could slip in a 0.10 mm feeler if it would take to the bore shape.

 

[cruisermatt]

Some interesting wear on a rear split case half. This came from a poorly maintained unit with worn out output shaft gear bushings. The low range gear bushing in particular has so much slop that I wonder if its not completely gone.

View attachment 3478560

This is the rear bore for the idler gear shaft (38 mm version). One half has an oddly worn texture, as if it had been pounded over time. There was a noticeable wear ridge all around, most noticeable in the pictured worn area.

Another thing to check when rebuilding. This case is junk in my opinion. There was noticeable slop in the idler shaft when installed. I could slip a 0.05 mm feeler in all round, and in this worn area I'm sure I could slip in a 0.10 mm feeler if it would take to the bore shape.

If the output gear bushings and the case itself are beyond use I would just do an entire new case assembly

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

If the output gear bushings and the case itself are beyond use I would just do an entire new case assembly

Yes, not mine thankfully, but as the geartrain is probably very worn, a new transfer would be economic, shipping costs from Japan/UAE to SE Asia notwithstanding.

 

[batthewmrown]

I'm in the middle of a t-case rebuild and trying to remove the pocket bearing in the end the output shaft. I tried the bread trick, to no avail. Is there any other shade-tree way to remove it or do I just need to nut up and buy a tool? Anybody got an recommendations on a tool that worked well for them?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I'm in the middle of a t-case rebuild and trying to remove the pocket bearing in the end the output shaft. I tried to bread trick, to no avail. Is there any other shade-tree way to remove it or do I just need to nut up and buy a tool? Anybody got an recommendations on a tool that worked well for them?

Die grinder is the usual 'unofficial' method I believe.

 

[BurntToast]

I'm in the middle of a t-case rebuild and trying to remove the pocket bearing in the end the output shaft. I tried to bread trick, to no avail. Is there any other shade-tree way to remove it or do I just need to nut up and buy a tool? Anybody got an recommendations on a tool that worked well for them?

Builds - BurntToast's FJ62 Build

Something isnt right here 🤔 there should be spring steel behind this tensioner all cam bearings are present and intact( albeit worn a bit) YEP, that was my second guess. Common issue.

forum.ih8mud.com

get that tool from autozone if you’re in the US

 

[Spike Strip]

That blind-hole puller is fairly cheap at Harbor Freight, but before I bought one (snap on ) , I would CAREFULLY use a combination of small flat screwdriver and chisel and brass punch to bend the lip of the roller bearing, eventually pushing one side toward the center, then pull out with needle-nose vise grips.

Be careful with the install; put the bearing in the freezer for a bit....

 

[batthewmrown]

That blind-hole puller is fairly cheap at Harbor Freight, but before I bought one (snap on ) , I would CAREFULLY use a combination of small flat screwdriver and chisel and brass punch to bend the lip of the roller bearing, eventually pushing one side toward the center, then pull out with needle-nose vise grips.

Be careful with the install; put the bearing in the freezer for a bit.

This is what I was looking for. Thank you, sir!

 

[cps432]

I'm in the middle of a t-case rebuild and trying to remove the pocket bearing in the end the output shaft. I tried the bread trick, to no avail. Is there any other shade-tree way to remove it or do I just need to nut up and buy a tool? Anybody got an recommendations on a tool that worked well for them?

The harbor freight pilot bearing puller can be modified by grinding the tip off until it fits into the bearing cage. I was stumped there too for a minute. I think it costs like $10-15?

 

[Wagchio]

I'm in the middle of a t-case rebuild and trying to remove the pocket bearing in the end the output shaft. I tried the bread trick, to no avail. Is there any other shade-tree way to remove it or do I just need to nut up and buy a tool? Anybody got an recommendations on a tool that worked well for them?

Hi

you have possibly already seen these....Here´s a way to remove it at 35:30


installing it at 23:30

 

[CruiserTrash]

@batthewmrown Looks like we need to nut up and buy a tool I guess. Or make one.