some h55f and split case tech (12 Viewers)

[Eurasiaoverland]

I'm not Georg but as there is not really a genuine 'rebuild' kit (there is only a genuine gasket/seal kit), any that you find will be aftermarket. And everything I've read suggests not to use any aftermarket synchros. Genuine synchros are cheap anyhow.

 

[Spook50]

I'm not Georg but as there is not really a genuine 'rebuild' kit (there is only a genuine gasket/seal kit), any that you find will be aftermarket. And everything I've read suggests not to use any aftermarket synchros. Genuine synchros are cheap anyhow.

That's about my thought on the synchros as well. OEM or nothing.

I've seen the rebuild kits available on Cruiser Outfitters that I assume Kurt @cruiseroutfit and his team put together (seals, gaskets, bearings), which will most likely be the direction I go when I'm ready and able to do the job. I don't expect to need to replace shafts or gears, but definitely synchros (shifting up into 3rd is really notchy; others are fine, but I figure just replace all synchro assemblies once I have it apart) and of course bearings if I'm breaking it down. Once I get to that point I plan to give em a call and ask about synchro assemblies too.

 

[cruisermatt]

Have you considered just buy a new trans and sell yours for $1k-$1500?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That's about my thought on the synchros as well. OEM or nothing.

I've seen the rebuild kits available on Cruiser Outfitters that I assume Kurt @cruiseroutfit and his team put together (seals, gaskets, bearings), which will most likely be the direction I go when I'm ready and able to do the job. I don't expect to need to replace shafts or gears, but definitely synchros (shifting up into 3rd is really notchy; others are fine, but I figure just replace all synchro assemblies once I have it apart) and of course bearings if I'm breaking it down. Once I get to that point I plan to give em a call and ask about synchro assemblies too.

We stock the synchros too!
Part# TR20012 - OEM Toyota 4/5Spd Trans Synchro Ring.

I'm not aware of an aftermarket sychnro set or H55F kit from Australia or Japan that includes them. Our kits are Japanese seals (NOK), gaskets and bearings that we make some tweaks/additions too.

 

[Spook50]

We stock the synchros too!
Part# TR20012 - OEM Toyota 4/5Spd Trans Synchro Ring.

I'm not aware of an aftermarket sychnro set or H55F kit from Australia or Japan that includes them. Our kits are Japanese seals (NOK), gaskets and bearings that we make some tweaks/additions too.

Are all the synchro assemblies in the H55F the same part number as far as how you stock them?

Correct me if I'm mistaken (haven't torn down an H55F before), but there's three total, right? 1/3, 2/4 and 5th gear?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Are all the synchro assemblies in the H55F the same part number as far as how you stock them?

Correct me if I'm mistaken (haven't torn down an H55F before), but there's three total, right? 1/3, 2/4 and 5th gear?

Correct, all identical

 

[Godwin]

Have you considered just buy a new trans and sell yours for $1k-$1500?

This is the best approach.

 

[Spook50]

Have you considered just buy a new trans and sell yours for $1k-$1500?

I hadn't actually. Either way I still should rebuild my tcase (the excessively loud gear mesh noise in 4HI has me wondering if I'll need a new gearset), so the cost to rebuild the tranny I think would still save over the cost of a new tranny, even if I were to sell my current one.

Unless there's something I'm overlooking here?

I already have a 20 ton press and expect to need gear/bearing pullers, so the cost of those, the rebuild set and a new set of synchros from Cruiser Outfitters I would expect would still cost far less out the door.

 

[rick_d]

Spook50
Parts costs, plus your time, then getting a gear puller with correct output shaft pulling arms……

I’d say buy another. Rebuilt only one h55- and only because a 3B variant and have done a dozen input swaps AND i have the three late model puller sets (A, B, and little C).

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Your diagnosis that the transmission just needs a rebuild with new synchros is probably wishful thinking. Most likely the index teeth on the gears will be worn if the shifts have become harsh. Then there's the usual output shaft wear, and a good chance that the rear layshaft (countershaft) bearing surface has wear too. So you're either going to have to compromise on rebuilding with worn parts, or buy new parts for a total that becomes more than a new transmission would set you back when you factor in the current resale value of the transmission.

Also, rebuilding an H55F is no simple task, you need a special tool to press in the output shaft centre bearing. I had to make one. Don't be a Pakistani mechanic and build it with hammers.

Do the rebuild for fun/learning, but don't do it thinking you'll have a perfect transmission for less than the price of a new unit.

 

[Spook50]

Your diagnosis that the transmission just needs a rebuild with new synchros is probably wishful thinking. Most likely the index teeth on the gears will be worn if the shifts have become harsh. Then there's the usual output shaft wear, and a good chance that the rear layshaft (countershaft) bearing surface has wear too. So you're either going to have to compromise on rebuilding with worn parts, or buy new parts for a total that becomes more than a new transmission would set you back when you factor in the current resale value of the transmission.

Also, rebuilding an H55F is no simple task, you need a special tool to press in the output shaft centre bearing. I had to make one. Don't be a Pakistani mechanic and build it with hammers.

Do the rebuild for fun/learning, but don't do it thinking you'll have a perfect transmission for less than the price of a new unit.

The fun & learning is admittedly a big part of it. I've rebuilt diffs but have yet to break into an H55F, and my curiosity outweighs my intelligence, more often than not. I do feel confident in tackling it though; and fully aware that I'll be learning a lot along the way.

Shifting into 2nd, 4th and 5th is butter smooth, but going into 3rd I have to put light pressure to the shifter and then push it home for it to smoothly pop in without getting a harsh shift. If I double clutch when shifting to 3rd, then it's butter smooth like the rest. That's what tells me the 1/3 synchro is worn. Downshifting into 3rd is smooth though, and so far there's been no steel shavings on the drain plug when I've changed out the oil; only the normal gray film.

When you mention output shaft wear, are you referring to spline wear, like the A440F are notorious for having excessive amounts of?

 

[rick_d]

If the first gear synchronizer is bad, they are $411 (Jan 2025 price) at amayama. Makes looking at a new transmission with zero wear more of an idea. Kurt's source of H55 (and the H55 tcase combo) is a great drop in for US owners and cheaper than Toyota proper. Toyota has NEW R151's in the US system @ $1900 +/- for those who use that transmission behind a HZ/HD/HDFT/HDFTE (yes, they fit). The H152 is also a US part requiring a couple overseas parts (and bellhousing) to mate to HZ/HD/HDFT/HDFTE for around $2500 transmission plus parts.
So buying a used H55, R151, or H150/151 that needs any internal work needs to be well below the $1,000 price. In my mind the H42 (and H41 fad) are a dead issue and those transmissions should be scrap.

Transmission are not hard (just understand double engagement) and just make sure things line up and move easily as needed and follow FSM. Just don't get in too deep with parts costs.

 

[Spook50]

If the first gear synchronizer is bad, they are $411 (Jan 2025 price) at amayama. Makes looking at a new transmission with zero wear more of an idea. Kurt's source of H55 (and the H55 tcase combo) is a great drop in for US owners and cheaper than Toyota proper. Toyota has NEW R151's in the US system @ $1900 +/- for those who use that transmission behind a HZ/HD/HDFT/HDFTE (yes, they fit). The H152 is also a US part requiring a couple overseas parts (and bellhousing) to mate to HZ/HD/HDFT/HDFTE for around $2500 transmission plus parts.
So buying a used H55, R151, or H150/151 that needs any internal work needs to be well below the $1,000 price. In my mind the H42 (and H41 fad) are a dead issue and those transmissions should be scrap.

Transmission are not hard (just understand double engagement) and just make sure things line up and move easily as needed and follow FSM. Just don't get in too deep with parts costs.


View attachment 3813958

Oof, there's the rub. If synchro assemblies are that much, now I see the encouragement to buy a new tranny and sell the current one. Though I'm also wondering if just the synchro ring can be replaced, rather than needing the full synchro assembly. What's the consensus among the experienced crowd? (Edit: given it's my 3rd gear that's having notchy shift behavior, from what's shown on Radd Cruisers, they state that gears 3, 4, and 5 are dependent on synchro rings, while gears 1 and 2 rely on the hub assembly. Is this correct?)

@cruiseroutfit is that price fairly on par for the cost from you, for complete synchro assemblies?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Oof, there's the rub. If synchro assemblies are that much, now I see the encouragement to buy a new tranny and sell the current one. Though I'm also wondering if just the synchro ring can be replaced, rather than needing the full synchro assembly. What's the consensus among the experienced crowd? (Edit: given it's my 3rd gear that's having notchy shift behavior, from what's shown on Radd Cruisers, they state that gears 3, 4, and 5 are dependent on synchro rings, while gears 1 and 2 rely on the hub assembly. Is this correct?)

@cruiseroutfit is that price fairly on par for the cost from you, for complete synchro assemblies?

The synchro rings are much much less, as memory services me they are in the $40/each range. The synchronizer assy is MUCH more and a very different part than the synchro rings themselves. If you need that much stuff, you’re starting to knock on the door of a new H55F.

 

[Spook50]

The synchro rings are much much less, as memory services me they are in the $40/each range. The synchronizer assy is MUCH more and a very different part than the synchro rings themselves. If you need that much stuff, you’re starting to knock on the door of a new H55F.

My 1/2 gears are just fine so I don't suspect the hubs have any problems. I had an issue with downshifting into 2nd while in 4WD in late 2021 that lasted about a month, but that never came back after it spontaneously went away (about two years ago I changed over to all AMSOIL too and their "Manual Transmission Fluid" has been great). Given the price of the rings I expect I'd just replace all three while it's apart. I'll pay close attention to my 1 & 2 gears in the meantime to make double sure they feel fine. If I ultimately decide that they're dodgy, I'll start putting money aside and just run this until I can replace it with a new unit.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

My 1/2 gears are just fine so I don't suspect the hubs have any problems. I had an issue with downshifting into 2nd while in 4WD in late 2021 that lasted about a month, but that never came back after it spontaneously went away (about two years ago I changed over to all AMSOIL too and their "Manual Transmission Fluid" has been great). Given the price of the rings I expect I'd just replace all three while it's apart. I'll pay close attention to my 1 & 2 gears in the meantime to make double sure they feel fine. If I ultimately decide that they're dodgy, I'll start putting money aside and just run this until I can replace it with a new unit.

Copy. I confirmed the standard synchro rings (pictured in my post) are $44.50/each, we have 20+ in stock. The synchronizer assy is ~$450 (retail in the US is $1112.20 )

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The fun & learning is admittedly a big part of it. I've rebuilt diffs but have yet to break into an H55F, and my curiosity outweighs my intelligence, more often than not. I do feel confident in tackling it though; and fully aware that I'll be learning a lot along the way.

Shifting into 2nd, 4th and 5th is butter smooth, but going into 3rd I have to put light pressure to the shifter and then push it home for it to smoothly pop in without getting a harsh shift. If I double clutch when shifting to 3rd, then it's butter smooth like the rest. That's what tells me the 1/3 synchro is worn. Downshifting into 3rd is smooth though, and so far there's been no steel shavings on the drain plug when I've changed out the oil; only the normal gray film.

When you mention output shaft wear, are you referring to spline wear, like the A440F are notorious for having excessive amounts of?

Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, the spline wear on the rear of the output shaft where the transfer input gear goes. That said, my 500k+ km H55F had pretty minor wear.

Your noisy transfer may well be the brass bushing on the output gear, which need machining if replaced with new, though Toyota really want you to buy a whole new gear.

 

[Spook50]

Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, the spline wear on the rear of the output shaft where the transfer input gear goes. That said, my 500k+ km H55F had pretty minor wear.

Your noisy transfer may well be the brass bushing on the output gear, which need machining if replaced with new, though Toyota really want you to buy a whole new gear.

I hadn't considered that bushing. I'll have to do some homework and find out what I can on there. I remember seeing it mentioned in other threads but not much beyond that. Am I correct in assuming that there's no way to inspect it without tearing into the case?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I hadn't considered that bushing. I'll have to do some homework and find out what I can on there. I remember seeing it mentioned in other threads but not much beyond that. Am I correct in assuming that there's no way to inspect it without tearing into the case?

No, though it requires only very limited disassembly (flange off, rear bearing retainer off) to pull it out and check. You can buy genuine brass bushings but neither are the same as the original and both would need machine work. Plus if the bushing is worn, the transfer output shaft will probably be galled.

 

[Spook50]

No, though it requires only very limited disassembly (flange off, rear bearing retainer off) to pull it out and check. You can buy genuine brass bushings but neither are the same as the original and both would need machine work. Plus if the bushing is worn, the transfer output shaft will probably be galled.

Well, it's worth looking once the weather warms up again. Hopefully whatever's causing the noise, it's repairable without having to source an entire new case.