Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

[D21FJ60]

I've found a few over the years. This was just first I keep and the highest mileage. But keep in mind, I've hundreds of hours and more than $6k in it now.

That's because you are an artist and the 100 series is your medium.

....Whereas there are those of us who are more like a preschooler finger painting on the wall

 

[2001LC]

One of my newer inspections, I also checked the "control wire" on the brake master.

It's the wire from bottom of black plastic ABS unit to booster motor.
It looked okay. No corrosion!

Had I found these corroded, I'd R&R and inspect booster motors commutator.

 

[2001LC]

Awesome thread! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Thank you for saying so, and you're more than welcome.

That's because you are an artist and the 100 series is your medium.

....Whereas there are those of us who are more like a preschooler finger painting on the wall

"Artist" you're to kind! It has a lot to do with I looking daily. I guess the Artist part comes in with my experience at inspecting. This I'm getting very good at. But even so, I never find it all on PP inspection.

 

[katit]

I guess the Artist part comes in with my experience at inspecting. This I'm getting very good at. But even so, I never find it all on PP inspection.

The better you get at it - the more likely you won't buy old cars anymore

 

[2001LC]

Not so! It just helps me with appropriate offer. Like in this case, I was just paying for tires, rigs was attached to them

 

[katit]

Not so! It just helps me with appropriate offer. Like in this case, I was just paying for tires, rigs was attached to them

I've seen plenty of cars where they should pay you to take it

 

[2001LC]

To remove rear rotor. Back off park brake shoe adjustor, first. See post #90 below.

E-brake shoes barely held the vehicle from rolling. I had to pull it's handle so hard, my GF couldn't release. Found pads very bad condition. Thickness was okay, just the pads were kind of crumbly and glazed. So I swapped them out with new OEM shoes.

Used some of the very pricey Toyota brake grease on backing plate

 

[2001LC]

With near 20 years and ~350K miles on calipers, I decided to rebuild them. While working on them I noticed the backing plats or dust shield are bent. I work to straighten them the best I could. I suspect I may be getting a little rub on rear disk/rotors and wheels from them.

 

[2001LC]

RH Rear

Sanded disk at angle creating hatch marks, to remove uneven glaze and rust from seating park so long.

I put new squeal shim in. These are actual put in reverse of how factory does. That is the shim cut for wear indicator out. I've not found any difference in brake function doing it this way.

 

[2001LC]

LH Rear.
As with RH rear I start by backing off e-brake adjuster, before pulling off drum/rotor.

 

[abuck99]

FWIW- There is a different dog-bone available that better positioned the shoe more evenly (makes the brake shoe expand more evenly) for better grab- holds it much better from rolling forward. Its a miniscule difference between the two parts but it does actually make a difference.

 

[2001LC]

FWIW- There is a different dog-bone available that better positioned the shoe more evenly (makes the brake shoe expand more evenly) for better grab- holds it much better from rolling forward. Its a miniscule difference between the two parts but it does actually make a difference.

View attachment 2070854

View attachment 2070855

Interesting. "dog bone" (aka shoe strut) where did you get those?

 

[trdcorolla]

I bought my "dog bone" from

47613-60020M Strut Parking Brake

cruiserbrothers.com

 

[abuck99]

Yes Cruiser Brothers

 

[2001LC]

Front caliper.
HP air is used to blow out pistons. Wooden blocks are placed between pistons, to keep from damaging them as the pop out.

Bleeders are in surprising good condition.
Honed, cleaned and ready for assembly

All the pads, shims and rotors were good. They just had some rust and glazing on them. So I reused after sanding pads and rotors. I then re-bed them on first drive.

 

[2001LC]

Flushing is next.

After flushing or bleeding I tested for leaks. Final step is blowing out the bleeders. I like to get the brake fluid out of them. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. If brake fluid remains in bleeders, it may promote rust by absorbing moisture. So I blow out with air, then WD40 or brake cleaner then air again. I then let set exposed to air to dry before capping.

Bleeder Caps:
I so often find bleeders rubber caps missing or cracked. The moisture gets in bleeder and causes corrosion. The bleeder become plunged best case. They can also become frozen in and weakened, then break when trying open/removing. Worst case, if the corrosion gets bad enough it will damage seat in caliper where bleeder seats. Then we end up with a bleeder weeping during normal operation. The weep or leak causes booster pump to run way to much trying to keep up the brake fluid pressure. This leads to brake pedal fade and may prematurely wear out booster motor. If caliper seat is damage, it must then be replaced. All because a good bleeder cap is not maintained on the bleeder at all times. This is especial true of rear calipers, due to angle bleeder sit at.

Tip: Check your bleeder caps!

 

[neilsen100]

Tip: Check your bleeder caps!

@2001LC Based on your recommendation, I have checked my bleeder caps, all of which where cracked. I ordered new Toyota bleeder caps and will do a whole brake line flush since it has been a couple of years anyways. My question for you is, do you ever replace the bleeders just as preventative maintenance? If so do you go OEM only or is whatever the local NAPA offers fine too?

 

[Infinity00]

Hey Paul,
Thanks for the power steering update. I’ve sub’d all your threads - and follow you now so I can always see what new info you give us. When you’re looking for leaking rack and pinion, the only thing I know to look for is the wetness on the boots. Is there anything else you are looking at? Does the wetness clear up after a while if it’s sealed? Nice butt connectors, at first I was like, oh I hate butt connectors but then I saw they were tyco and I always liked that brand back in the day, looks like good stuff. Did you pick those up online?

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC Based on your recommendation, I have checked my bleeder caps, all of which where cracked. I ordered new Toyota bleeder caps and will do a whole brake line flush since it has been a couple of years anyways. My question for you is, do you ever replace the bleeders just as preventative maintenance? If so do you go OEM only or is whatever the local NAPA offers fine too?

I do not replace if they clean up good and seat is not damaged. But if they weep even after I torque a little extra, up to 12IN-lbf. Then I replace with OEM only. That's provided it is an OEM caliper. I see aftermarket bleeders weep to often. I keep some OEM bleeders on hand. Both fronts which are longer and rears just in case. I also keep some used on hand. They come in handy to plug caliper when I pull bleeders to recondition.

Hey Paul,
Thanks for the power steering update. I’ve sub’d all your threads - and follow you now so I can always see what new info you give us. When you’re looking for leaking rack and pinion, the only thing I know to look for is the wetness on the boots. Is there anything else you are looking at? Does the wetness clear up after a while if it’s sealed? Nice butt connectors, at first I was like, oh I hate butt connectors but then I saw they were tyco and I always liked that brand back in the day, looks like good stuff. Did you pick those up online?

Boots, if wet, tend to keep weeping even after leak stops. They just are full of fluid, so takes a long time to dry if ever. So I use reservoir's level as my indicator.

I also look at input shaft. It's common leak point. It's one AT-205 works best on.

Here is a dry input shaft.

Another leak I see about 1 out of 10 inspection. Is the flex hose portion of high pressure line.

I clean really good than watch, just like all leaks. Then tend to weep, so must be watch close.

The very most common leak or weep is from return and suction hoses coming off reservoir. I replace those most often.


Final is leak point is the vane pump (power steering pump) seal at front of pump behind pulley. This one goes and new or rebuilt pump is the cure. I've seen AT-205 slow it, but it comes back and is a bad leak. It's bearing will have play and you can't stop seal from leaking, as it get worn out from play/wobble of out put shaft.

I bought the Tyco wire but splicers from Grainger locally. They are great. Some mud members pointed them out to years ago. My heat gun is only 1K watts and melts the solid easily. Those are so sweet, they also have that red band that grips wire to further aid form being pulled apart. Those bands and heat shrink wraps make them water tight.

 

[katit]

The very most common leak or weep is from return and suction hoses coming off reservoir. I replace those most often.

I need to take care of those first. It looks like it leaks all the way to the bottom (not dripping though). Do you have PNs handy for those hoses and what is the best place to get them?