Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

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See bottom of this OP for index of work done to restore. I'll keep adding to index as thread develops!

So this LX470 being a green LX470, gets named "Emerald". We name them all, to confusing otherwise. She's rough around the edges. Most all body panels have a dings, dent or scratch and headlight glass lenses are busted. The kind of rig, I'll park in front row mall or take through the brush without a concern for what that may do to cosmetics.
Meet Emerald:
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I found this uncut "Emerald" (get it! jewel in the rough) in the foot hills of Ft Collins CO. It started it's first few years of life in Canada, then was sold to a family that eventually brought to CO by way of TN. It was Lexus Dealership maintained. The service history from USA dealerships was the longest I'd ever seen, taking me days to review. I've yet to get Canada history records. The parents of families, gave to their son, for the last few years before I found it. He drove about 150 miles a day to work and back for the first year. Then one day about a year earlier it wouldn't start, which they called bad "IG switch" so it was parked next to a shed in a field and forgotten.

I was looking through CL when I spotted it. CL Ad said bad IG switch. IG switch tumbler is a known failure point, due to wear, in-which the key will not work/turn/sticks. The LX470 IG tumbler are pricey, listing for ~$750. I had an old LX IG tumbler lying around, I had rebuilt by locksmith. It worked okay, but not one you'd want for most drivers, as it stick a bit.

So I headed up to see the LX470, ~75 miles north of me, with IG tumbler and a few tools in hand along with my inspection gear. During inspection, I found it had newer tires and the IG switch was not broken, and overall appearance a weak 7 out of 10.

Battery was dead and battery clamps in bad condition (cracked) and corroded. After some clean up & charging the battery a bit (sellers charger) I drew a conclusion stater was not in-gauging. I noted a number of issue during inspection, which will become apparent as thread develops.

In the end I asked the seller if he just wanted to get rid of the LX and out of their. I really wasn't to interested so I made a haul offer or walk away offer. He said yes, not a PP price I'll be posting, it would devalue all series 100 HAHA. So we cut a deal and closed. I came back with trail a few weeks later, using my 2011 Land Cruiser to tow it home legally with U-haul trailer (U-haul will not allow a 100 to tow a 100).
Darn, all front lights/lenses busted!
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Lucky the topography allowed us to set trailer in a low spot and ramps on high spot in PO driveway. We just hand pushed it onto the trailer. Took 10 minute and I was back on the road. To get it off the trailer, I just pull it with another 100 series and rolled it off.
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Bit more rust than I like to see, but not to bad. See gas tank skid shield, not bad at all.
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Sweet replacement OEM front drive shafts or an OEM reboot kit. See the yellow clamps:) Shock looks leaky:(
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I used one of my 100 series to pull it off the trailer. Not my first rodeo...LOLO

So what do you guys think? Parts rig or fixer upper Or just keep the tires and scrape it!.???

Index for this thread:
Starter rebuild: Post #19 page #1
Intake manifold & fuel injector gaskets & seals: Post #21 page #2
PCV valve, grommet & PCV vacuum hoses: Post #21 page #2
Vacuum line Power Steering idle-up control:Post #22 page #2
Spark plugs & coils: Post #29 page #2
Engine cover Bolts & Nuts: Post #30 page #2
Hood struts: Post #30 page #2
Head cover bolts re-torquing Post #34 page #2
Coolant system Repairs and PM. Post #43 page #3
Thermostat & O-ring seal R&R continued . Post #44
Oil coolant & bypass hoses, front. R&R. Post #48
Radiator, hoses upper & lower hoses along with transmission cooler hoses R&R Post #49
Which radiator to use! Post #50
New radiator, Cap and 4 hoses, along with LH transmission coolant hose bracket! Post #51
Fan shroud, broken plastic bracket, repair! Post #52
Battery, Clamps and area clean up. Post # 53
MAF & Throttle body cleaning and Air filter R&R. Post #56
Fuse box clip broken, plastic weld repair Post #57
Fuel Filter Post #58
Idler pulley & tensioner (Drive belt (AKA serpentine belt)) inspection / R&R Post #59
Tensioner bearing can just be replace for a big savings. Post #60
Oil leaks! PS steering & Differential input shafts No more! Post #62 AT-205 re-seal use
Power steering Flushing. Post #63
Power Steering hoses leaks and weeps. Post #64 to #74
ABS light on cut wire repair. Page #4 post # 76
Brake control wire inspection Page #5 post # 82
E-brake pads Page #5 post #87
Brake Caliper rebuild & Flush Page #5 post #88-96
Wheel Bearings, Axle Bearing & Bushing R&R Page #6
Wheel hub recondition Page #6
Knuckle recondition page # 6
Ball Joint lower replaced w/555 Page #6
Ball joints upper R&R upper boots Page #6
Differential front side seals page #6
Front drive shaft R&R page #6
Shock front DS R&R page #6
AHC flush Page #6
Differentails & transfer case gear lube Page #7
Transmission flush (fully 12 qt) 6 steps! page #7.
OF&L (Oil filter and lube) Inspecting for lubing page #7
Plastic wield a cracked mud flap page #7
Wipers all R&R page #7
Water leak, third brake light sealing page #7 post # 139 & 140
Door lock motor R&R page #8 post # 141
Coil spring spacer. page #8 post # 144, later new coils page #9
AHC sensor adjusting Page #9
Broken bolt drilled out frame for stabilizer link bracket rear. Page #8 post # 145
Headlights replaced Page #8 Post # 146
Headlight washers Page #8 Post # 147
Cabin air filter R&R. Page #8 post # 148
A/C, New Drier & charged. Page #8 post # 149
Oil Dipstick O-ring R&R Page #9
Air box replacement Page #9
AHC sensor adjusting Page #9
 
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Could've. But I'm inclined to bring it back from the dead, to factory spec. I just don't like them leaving my shop needy. At 350K it's needy for sure!
 
The Canadian sales of Lexus LXs have been laughable. 50-100 a year. Less than 750 new Lexus LXs were sold in Canada all together from 98-07. They have headlight washers and also had a locking rear diff for 98-99s.

Looking forwards to this resto! And....what rust? I don't see squat.
 
If you have the skills, which seems you do, keep it on the road. Flip that spare tire the right away and you're golden. Looks like a good find.
 
Love the color. I've been looking out for a green LX (or GX) for a while.

The overall condition of Emerald is already 200% better than the average LX470 here in Ontario.
 
How is the interior, that might help sway if it makes more sense as a parts car or a restore.
I'd vote restore, just to see what a high milage complete restoration looks like.

@2001LC, if I were closer, I'd be volunteering some time just so I'd be breaking someone else's car (i.e. learning how to NOT do things) :D
 
Waiting for your pre-sold announcement!
If someone makes me and offer that comes my cost and time ;). Untill then it will be a daily drive I & my GF park in front row at the mall.
The Canadian sales of Lexus LXs have been laughable. 50-100 a year. Less than 750 new Lexus LXs were sold in Canada all together from 98-07. They have headlight washers and also had a locking rear diff for 98-99s.

Looking forwards to this resto! And....what rust? I don't see squat.
Interesting I did not know that.
The headlight washer are kind of cool. I thought I had a leak as it uses so much fluid I use a gallon fluid so fast!
If you have the skills, which seems you do, keep it on the road. Flip that spare tire the right away and you're golden. Looks like a good find.
Yeah tire that why does collect more road grim. Good call!
Love the color. I've been looking out for a green LX (or GX) for a while.

The overall condition of Emerald is already 200% better than the average LX470 here in Ontario.
I've been watching for color match parts. I've actually seen two in CO/NM that color for sale. But I've never seen one on the road.
That color looks pretty good. I would have bought it even if I didn't need it. Fun project ahead of you. Enjoy.
Thanks. I really wasn't sure why I bought. Color and a deal I couldn't pass up I suppose.
How is the interior, that might help sway if it makes more sense as a parts car or a restore.
Interior is not bad. Needs a very good cleaning. Both seat bottoms have small tear, not to bad. Steering wheel a horse chewed. really.
I'd vote restore, just to see what a high milage complete restoration looks like.

@2001LC, if I were closer, I'd be volunteering some time just so I'd be breaking someone else's car (i.e. learning how to NOT do things) :D
My thinking as well. Also I can use for test rig, like with parts and procedure to see how they last and how well it works. Also to learn what may fail.
 
Door panels are nice
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Seat have small tear. Hard to see center up front
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Stitching bad up front out corner
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Cover on steering is cover where horse stuck his head in and chewed it. As reported by PO!
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Over all leather not to bad.
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The it blows my mind that so many previous Land Cruiser owners had absolutely filthy seats. I have seen too many pics on here of the newly purchased LC, with seats that appeared to have had Sasquatch driving it for at least 5 years. What the heck? :oops:
 
Paul, I’ll add one additional thought, if dismantling/parts car would be done with the level of documentation you are known for, that would get my vote. Either way it’s sure to be a great story.

Good luck.
 
The it blows my mind that so many previous Land Cruiser owners had absolutely filthy seats. I have seen too many pics on here of the newly purchased LC, with seats that appeared to have had Sasquatch driving it for at least 5 years. What the heck? :oops:
My seats were filthy, and the PO was FBI. Blacked out ignition switch light, interior light covers, Car Phone, Wired for Sat phone.
 
Sorry guys, it's taken so long for me to respond here. I got slammed this week with front end and brake work for a few local mud members rigs.

The it blows my mind that so many previous Land Cruiser owners had absolutely filthy seats. I have seen too many pics on here of the newly purchased LC, with seats that appeared to have had Sasquatch driving it for at least 5 years. What the heck? :oops:
Yeah so many are like this. Leatherque does a good job of getting out grim from seat leather first application. But I'll likely just clean and condition with my old favorite Lexol. Doesn't clean as deep, but trusted on our leather by the Toyota and Lexus Dealerships.
Paul, I’ll add one additional thought, if dismantling/parts car would be done with the level of documentation you are known for, that would get my vote. Either way it’s sure to be a great story.

Good luck.
I'm restoring as it has good bones. So thread will be along those lines!
I can’t wait to see you do your magic on this one Paul. Nice find!
It has some interesting issues with it's high mileage. I'll post up much of, as time permits.
My seats were filthy, and the PO was FBI. Blacked out ignition switch light, interior light covers, Car Phone, Wired for Sat phone.
Makes one wonder about some "peoples" personal hygiene.
Emerald was well maintained and keep clean, until son took over from what I can tell. Also I was in mom & dads home, very clean!. The young just drive, especially if they've no skin in the game. But overall, I happy with condition of leather for age and miles I've seen so much worst.
 
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Cover on steering is cover where horse stuck his head in and chewed it. As reported by PO!
:rofl:

I totally thought you were joking about that! Too funny.
 
:rofl:

I totally thought you were joking about that! Too funny.
I did too when she first told me, but she was serious. Said it was her horse!

______________LET THE FUN BEGIN!!!!!

Starter.......... Was first up!

First up getting started. Wanting to pull starter I need to clean engine. This is so when I pull the intake manifold, I don't drop grim/sand/ crud into intake ports of head.

Non running engines presents a problem when power washing. I like engine angled with front end higher than rear of engine. This is so water will flow front to back out of engine valley rear drain holes, passed the starter. Of even more importance, is area between intake manifold and heads. If water sit between intake & heads, it can enter intake ports of head. When this happens it's important to run engine. Running engine drys it and blows out any water that may have entered ports/and cylinders. If allowed to sit with in engine for more than two weeks, it will likely rust leading to a smoker.

So to over come this I use as little water as possible and compressed air normally. In this case vehicle was at the curb out of reach of my air hose. So HP water was all I had at the time! So key was to water soak up as I pulled intake and get running ASAP after washing engine.

I dug right in, ordered starter parts to rebuild it.
This is first time I replace the front bearing.
It was a rebuild Denso in the engine, so it second in 560K KM (~350K miles)
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Broke out my home made commutator lath, to true it up and polish.
First cleaning out carbon from commutators under cut
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