Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Differentials and transfer case gear lube.

I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose some lube. So I'll often just drain to start the job. So now is time to refill. May as well do all gear boxes now as a baseline.

Front is easiest of all for me. After draining, I replace washer/gasket on drain plug and torque to 36ft-lbf. The I just run a hose down from engine compartment into fill hole. Filling with about 1.8 qts, until lube runs out with. Then let settle down a minimum of 15 minutes, to allow lube to flow into ever area of gear box including side tube. Then torque in fill plug with new gasket.

Torque for both differentials drain & fill plugs, is 36ft-lbf

Next is transfer case, which again same procedure. But uses the aluminium sold gasket and with only 27ft-lbf of torque.

Rears I just squeeze in 3 1/2 bottles and flow same procedure.

Note: 200 series FSM now recommends driving to settle. I've compared driving to just letting sit to settle for 15 minimum. Results are the same. In either case, on final topping add until in runs out while vehicle level.

 

[2001LC]

Fabulous work, sir! I think I can speak for everyone when I say we seriously appreciate the time and effort you take to photograph and post up your work.

Thank you for saying that.

It does take a great deal of time.

Just trying to catch up posting work done on Emerald, is a taking what seems like forever. That is what I get for not posting daily as work done.

Time, is also why I'm just highlight the jobs and pointing out just a few key points. Anyone needs any detail or clarity on how to, Just ask. I be happy to answer.

I take less pictures these days. Not only saves time during job, but I've run low on storage space in CPU and back up drive.
Also my 2/3rds camera lens failed (just got to dirty in shop) on me. I did find a replacement lens on CL. But it doesn't give as sharp of pictures. Those are some of reasons, I use at least some stock footage in posting.

I'll kept working at organizing my master page. Which link to it (Thread of links to previous projects and much more.) is found in first line of signture.

 

[Infinity00]

I agree with the recent poster saying how much we appreciate you posting all this info. As you know, I don’t have a 100 series but want one some day. I watch and listen (read) to you because it’s just generally really good info and some of it should be applicable to my GX 470. With regards to the ball joint cover, does the wire come with it and how do you tie it off properly. I know I know, a lane question to go with all this great tech. What lube do you like for the bearings? I’ve been reading up on it and it just gets me more of not knowing what to choose. I’ve used Palladium on the knuckles of my 60 series cruiser per Robbie Aniston, but I just don’t know if it’s too thick for wheel bearings. I’ll have better questions next time Paul! Thanks for continuing with it. —Anne

 

[2001LC]

Thank you for saying that and you are welcome.

Not a lame questions.

I too question it when I got my first ball joint boot kit. I like the factory spring loaded wire best. But they aren't any good to reuse. So I just use included wire, that comes with kit. It possible to wrap wire twice, but can just be wrap once. Then just twist ends together. Don't over twist or wire will break (did that my first time).

I use Mobil One wheel bearing grease. Mobil One is top shelve synthetic and ready available. Any grease that states wheel bearing #2 will due. It just I like to keep simple, consistent and repeatable.

 

[2001LC]

Transmission flush (fully 12 qt) 6 steps!

After replacing transmission cooler lines, clamps, hose stabilizer fasteners and making sure I've no leaks. Flushing was final PM service for transmission. I did add <1 qt if M1 ATF and drove for awhile and watch for leaks. I saw no leaks. So I assume it was low due to either not fully topping at last flush (history showed a 12qt at 395Km, and 4 qt at 219Km) the cooler hose leak/weeps or a little of both.

I like to do full 12 qt flush with synthetic ATF. History showed it had been done before, fluid looked and smelt okay. So I was not overly concerned with fresh Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF cleaning gunk from clutch plates and losing the transmission. My feeling on transmission is; If so bad that a good cleaning by new ATF destroys the transmission, it's going to fail anyway. May as well be while in PM and inspection faze, and not 200 miles from nowhere. If I'm overly concerned, some may like to do, a ~3qt drain and fills 5 or 6 times over a few hundred miles. It's believed this drain and fill is easier on clutch plates and doesn't remove gunk that holds them together. Other are concerned machine flushing uses to much pressure and can be damaging, I can't say. I just use the transmission own pump to flush. So no external pressure is introduced. Hey it's a Toyota Land Cruiser, not a Honda!

The older transmission with dip stick are so easy to flush. Why Toyota removed them in 04, well we've many opinions on that.

Procedure:
Step 1) First in any flush is to drain the pan which I'll get between about 3 and 5 qts depending on how long I let it drain. The Pan is where fluid is first picked up from (pick up tube) and starts it circulating journey through the transmission and cooler lines. Once drained I then torque drain in plug to 15ft-lbf with new washer/gasket.

Step 2) Next I disconnect transmission cooler return line after cooler before going back to transmission, and attach a clear hose to pipe that the top (return) hose connected to. To break hose free from pipe which pipe is easily crushed. I move clamp back down hose, then genitally twist (rock hose clockwise and and counter clock wise) hose on pipe with pair of channel locks.

This return hose & pipe are on PS from within engine bay at side of radiator. We've two hose attached here in the pre 03 models. (03- has power steering hose in area also, but the same two transmission cooler hose seen here). I place a rag under my work area and just let disconnected hose lay on it.

Step 3) Next is to remove dip stick and place transmission funnel in it's place. Then add back the same amount of new ATF as was just drained from pan. It is fine to overfill pan at this point if you like.

Marking you catch can with quart or gallon mark is not a bad idea. You can also poor what you've drain from pan into this can. This is to get idea of what has already been drained and what is drain/pump out as we proceed. We're shooting for just 12 qts flushed. Doing more gets wasteful. My first time I went through 18 qt at $12 a qt..

Tips: I like doing Power steering next, as I'll often end up with open qt.

Step 4) Now we are set and just need to start engine and let it idle. As it idles ATF pumps out old fluid as we're adding new ATF fluid at same time. Helper is great here, to start and stop engine as I pour in new. But I generally do alone. Either way we do not what to empty the pan and suck in air. So keep eye on how much is coming out and keep up with that amount by filling. Our only real concern here is letting pan run dry, So don't!

Tip: As I get near 12 qts. I'll dump or switch catch can and watch color of fluid closely. At 12 qts removed I should see color become lighter (in clear hose and bucket) as new fluid stars to pump out. I try and hold back about 1/2 qt for topping. By keeping catch can clean and dumping as I near the 12 qt mark. I can reuse fresh that's pumped out if I've over flushed and run out.

Be alter to level, stop engine and check level as you go. Better overfilling during procedure than running dry.

Step 6) Final is to drive and come back and top while on level ground with transmission at normal operation temp. Remember transmission level is checked while engine idling in park or N.

I like M1 full synthetic MV ATF in 98-02. That stuff does not expanded much, so I like to get transmission a litle to hot side, then check. I set level dead on full hot point on dip stick. I keep checking periodically to see I did hit the full mark. Then check periodically to see if level drops, which would indicate a leak. No leak then level will always be the same at same ATF temperature. You can shoot transmission pan with IR gun and get good reading of temp of ATF.

I had also pulled inspection plate from bell-housing. Just looking at condition of flex plate (starter gear teeth, cracks, etc) and for any signs of leaks. After all it has over 350K miles, can't hurt right!

BTW: Most all fluids from Toyota are from Exxon Mobil.

 

[Ozymandias]

This is a really great thread. Thanks!

 

[Jczajka]

I need to do this. I have all the tools and a case of ATF, just need the time.

Thanks for the close up pictures of the correct line to pull.

 

[2001LC]

Glade up enjoy and find it usefully.

Remember if doing an:
03 transmission they call for a certain ATF, check your OM for spec.
04 up, uses Toyota WS ATF and procedure is different in how we fill and check level. Additionally Toyota changed temp we check those transmissions fluid level at. So any manual pre 2010 has bad info, TBS out on this.

 

[Jczajka]

I have a 2000 LX, so my dozen M1 ATFs are ready to roll.

 

[FxFormat]

Talk about polishing a turd, you put amazing amount of work into these rigs, giving them new life. I wanna say you picked this up for $1000 or less lol.

What's your end game with this? restore and sell, or restore and keep?

 

[white_lx]

Concern was in stripping threads on spindle or adjusting nut. I really don't know at what torque they'd strip.

The axle nuts are very thin, but a quick calculation shows that for only one full thread engaged on the M42x1.5 thread and mild steel yield strength, it should strip at around 194 ft.lbs. Probably best to stay below half that number. The 2nd nut will assist, once it place.

 

[2001LC]

I have a 2000 LX, so my dozen M1 ATFs are ready to roll.

It's and art to hit dead-on 12 qts and not needing more to top. That is why I always have 1 or 2 qt more standing by and generally plan a PS flush afterwords.

Talk about polishing a turd, you put amazing amount of work into these rigs, giving them new life. I wanna say you picked this up for $1000 or less lol.

What's your end game with this? restore and sell, or restore and keep?

Your close. I keep track of all cost and time. I'm in for under $7K now and 200 hours. I've not even shampooed the carpet or rubbed out the body paint yet.

End game. Well!
I treat all 100 series that come into my shop the same. As if I'm keeping for life that is!
This one has been daily driver for a year now. If someone make me a reasonable offer I'd sell it, just as all three I currently have.

The axle nuts are very thin, but a quick calculation shows that for only one full thread engaged on the M42x1.5 thread and mild steel yield strength, it should strip at around 194 ft.lbs. Probably best to stay below half that number. The 2nd nut will assist, once it place.

Good info to know. 1/2 would be 97ft-lbf which is a lot!

~84ft-lbf is max is I've hit to-date on adjusting nut of wheel bearing. Which is very sung for the wheel bearings. Bearings must be in excellent broke-in condition to hit that at a ~12.5 BPL on spring scale. I was using twice the 43ft-lbf locking nut FSM recommended torque as my max.

 

[RyanStl]

I'm coming into this thread late. You need to start a YouTube channel. Would love to see all of this in video tuturial form.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks @2001LC I have some extra from cleaning, replacing hoses, and bleeding my PS. Might buy an extra, just to have on hand though.

 

[2001LC]

I'm coming into this thread late. You need to start a YouTube channel. Would love to see all of this in video tuturial form.

I have videos on Youtube. Their not very good and all short (7 minutes or less) due to camera shuts off!

ME MY

Toyota Land Cruiser / Lexus LX470 series 100.

www.youtube.com

A camera is very helpful during inspection, while tearing components down and assembly. It gives me opportunity to review, zoom in, check how component was assembled and how I assembled.

I shot many still pictures just as aids at first, then to add visualize aids to my postings. Some are just what I use during inspections, like ball joint videos inspecting with wheels on. I only started posting in YouTube as means to post them in mud, which was due to request here in mud!

Fact is, taking still pictures takes extra time and has trashed my micro 2/3rd camera from grimy hands, shop dust and sprays.. Videos take much more of my time (setting up, reviewing, editing, posting). So I use some stock footage these days, just to help readers visualize. Doing a video of a full restore project as a tutorial, would be 100's of hours long, even after editing down.

I need spend some time and learn how to edited videos together. Like my wheel bearing videos, which are very segmented. But a more than 20 minutes long video, I doubt anyone would watch.

I also have a master page I work to make easier to find stuff and add to and improve as time passes. See first link in signature!

 

[2001LC]

Oil & filter change along with lubing propeller shafts and spiders, natural was done very early on in the PM work.

During inspecting, I look at history of oil & filter changes. This ones history indicated it was regularly done, great to see. But so often the 6 lubes point are not done as they should be with oil & filter PM. Where they don't need lubed every time, they do need regular lubing.

So one thing I look at during inspecting, is for signs they've been lubed. Grease fly's off these lube points on first drive after lube service is done. This leaves signs of old grease slung.

Good signs:

Again keeping wit h KISS in the shop and used all M1 oil, filter and grease.

Note: I never use HM oils (High Mileage) they will damage seals. If used for two oil change, must then be used until dead do use part!

 

[2001LC]

Plastic wield a mud flap.

Just a little tidying up.

 

[2001LC]

Wipers ere all shot, R&R all three.

 

[2001LC]

Third brake light leaking.

History of vehicle showed Lexus dealership replaced the third brake light just a few years ago. Yet it still was leaking. This leak can promoted or contributed to rust in bottom upper hatch. So we don't want to just let this go.

I pulled the third brake light, which trashes the two side tape that comes pre-mounted on these brake light housings. As I removed, I did really try and spot the leak point. I'm 92% it was not around the two sided tape seal.

I then cleaned the area on body and lens housing to remove every spec of the two sided tape. I also did a little paint touch up on body. A few spots paint was scratched or worn to the metal. So I ground-out to clean bare metal and used epoxy primer.


Rolled back the inner molding and disconnected the wire.

Removed two plugs to expose holes to 10mm nuts that secure the lens to hatch.

I've heat blow gun (hairdryer), carbon fiber body tool and 3M adhesive remover, I used to aided in removing lens and remains of two sided tape adhesive. Then painted on epoxy primer on exposed metal of hatch. It's likely these scratches are from when Lexus DS R&R the lens a few years ago.

All cleaned up and ready to be sealed then installed.

 

[2001LC]

It may be that the leak was from between the lens housings halves. They're factory sealed, but perhaps the seal just wasn't great. So I tape the seam of the halves and injected a little silicone and let cure overnight. Did seem to get in seam as good as I would have liked! Next time I'll just use the butyl.

I then used butyl (3M Windo-Weld Ribbon sealer) as a seal in place of the two sided tape. I rolled out a skinny (~1/2" thick) rope and stuck it to the back side of the lens, to create a seal. I made my rope of butyl too thick. I though the butyl would easily compress as I assembly the lens on the hatch and tighten down the nuts....WRONG!. I end up pressing and pressing and pressing the lens down working in the butyl. May not have been all bad, as it seemed to get into seam of the two halves factory seal. End result is no more leak.

Way to thick to easily install. Next time I'll make rope of butyl thinner (3/8") and work in with my fingers before attaching to hatch. Learning every day!

As I pressed and pressed lens to get in flush and properly seated in hatch. I saw where it seemed butyl was getting into what may have been the leak point.

No more leak