Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
Just bought this truck: Soon to be a new owner of 2001 LX470

Will be posting here all that's being done to it.
Today I got new keys. Truck came with only 1 key. eBay to the rescue. They make new keys from a pictures! For only $40 I got new key with chip + shell. Now I have spare key, will be using new one.

Programming master key worked just like in FAQ. However, programming remote didn't work right away. I tried different ways, then I tried YouTube and it still failed. Finally I repeated steps for "additional" keys and it worked.

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
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St Louis, MO
More easy stuff. Wipers were OK but somene broke plastic clips off and blades were working themselves out during operation. Not good. New Toyota parts.

$89 shipped floor mats. I guess it's just someone wanted to get rid of old stuff. Works for me, correct color.

Leather sample for steering wheel is no good :( Will be either going non-perforated or wait. Hard to buy leather in needed color in small quantity.

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
If someone looking to replace speaker cloth (mine was ripped on FL door)- DO NOT get it from one well known store. For $50 + $18 shipping I was expecting dead match to OE. Instead I just got 4 pieces of beige drape cloth that doesn't even match color let alone texture. I can get "similar stuff" at joe ann much cheaper than that. Seriously. Very disappointed with seller. Not going to return it because of 25% restocking and then store credit only..

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
Yesterday I noticed (after rain) that when I open back door I had puddle on lower hatch. And when I close it back I had some water coming from rear window moulding. Anybody have any Ideas? Also, see 3rd raw seat rusted. Is that just something PO spilled there or it's some common issue? I'm thinking about brake light leaking inside of the hatch.

Light was cracked. Took it off, cleaned off old foam seal material from both lamp and hatch.

Filled small scratch in paint with primer. PO scraped while loading somethin on top and I guess this is why light cracked as well. I didn't want to do seamless job. I just wanted to stop rust. I'ts not visible anyway.

Used superglue (maybe not the best), then sanded and polished light. Installed on silicone. Crack repair definitely visible if you are looking. But for now it's about functionality, not about perfection.

I don't have any major rust in hatch, only light bubbles around pull handle. Nothing around license plate light. Hopefully this will slow it down for now.

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
During weekend I did "Ghetto" fix, added 2 clamps to PS can just so I can clean all traces of oil and see if it's just the spot where it leaks to assess what needs to be done to PS system

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
I bet this is Christmas came early for this truck. Got all fluids. Just by number of quarts required I think this accumulates to 1 lost MPG (by weight) :) Decided to go KISS with fluids, following @2001LC advice. All Mobil1 with exception of AHC fluid, Coolant, and brake fluid.

Right now I'm replacing engine oil (with flush), diffs/transfer case fluid, soaking all bleeders for AHC/Brakes so I can proceed with those later on. Also replacing all air filters.

Getting all M1 fluids was a Quest. Autozone carries 3-4 bottles of 75-90, had to stop at 2 stores. Had to stop at Walmart for engine oil(Autozone $$), bought all ATF they had in one Autozone. Dealer had to special order Ts and AHC fluid.

Also got factory manuals and Techstream cable.

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
Now I'm little confused about lifting truck... I know it's not popular here (to have a lift). But I do have scissor lift. This is 7000lb lift, so no issue here. However I'm not 100% I got jacking points right. On a rear it should be fine (per FSM). However, on a front - the best I found is by cross-member. Anybody have any input on this?

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Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
FSM is not encouraging. Says don't use this type of lift. I will have to ignore it then :( This is as wide as I can support it front to back between wheels. I did shake it, stays solid. Its safe, the only question is if this front cross-member OK to use.. I used it already but if there is big no-no for some reason I won't do it again (doubt it because this seems like the only spot.)
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
Accomplished today (193xxx miles)

Differential oils: Used my pump - highly recommend. I used it for my other cars, very convenient, easy to fill, easy to clean, easy to use..
Front differential oil:
Was pretty dark, seems like original one.

Transfer case:
Was very dark, original for sure
Drain plug has 2 washers. Copper and aluminum. Normal? See pic..

Rear diff:
Was pretty dark, also original

Greased driveshafts. No sign of them being greased ever. Took many pumps (like 10+) to get grease out. I didn't overdo splines, only U-joints made sure new grease shows.. Had hard time with my grease gun, need to learn if it's bad or I don't know how to use it..

Plastic pan has 3 broken tabs and was held by 2 bolts only. Oil drain cover was missing. I hate when I see this. Why they do this??? This car was serviced in DOBBS(?????) Seems like every place they touched have something screwed up. Wrong clamps, missing bolts, etc. Hate it..

What is a good source for replacement pan?

There is some pretty big oil leak. No dripping yet, but engine soaked. Will post pics tomorrow or so, need to figure what is that.

Is there DIY for relocating front AC drain? It's not draining in a good spot, I see some rust related to that..

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Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Messages
101
 
 
For the engine underbody protection plate, if your original part has tabs missing, i would replace it with a proper metal plate. A few options are available from usual vendors. Much cheaper than OEM part and much more protection
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
444
Location
St Louis, MO
For the engine underbody protection plate, if your original part has tabs missing, i would replace it with a proper metal plate. A few options are available from usual vendors. Much cheaper than OEM part and much more protection
Can you post link please? I'm new, so "usual" vendors don't tell me much. Metal would be nice for sure. Especially if it's cheaper as well.
I do have tabs and may be able to repair mine, but I definitely don't want to buy OE part for what it costs..
 
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Joined
Aug 22, 2019
Messages
37
Location
Columbus, OH
For the a/c drain line, i'm going to install this: 100/120-Series AC Drain Extension Kit — CRUISER GARAGE i saw it on another thread.

My truck came from the North, so it's a bit rusty, but the sway bar bracket is rotting as a result of the usual rust in addition to the constant dripping over 17 years. The frame shop i use is going to fix it for $400-$500. Hurts knowing a $8 part could've saved this damage from happening...
 
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