Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (6 Viewers)

[2001LC]

I've had a few ask me if intake manifold can go on anyway. No, it must be installed as shown here.White tabs out and up.

I decided to clean up Fuel Injector and put in new seas. Later I'll pull FI and have them tested and rebuilt. Have area clean and new seas in should make job cleaner when I can get to it.

Torquing down intake manifold to 13ft-lbf is important.

Naturally at

Starter cranked nicely now it was rebuilt, and It fire right up running well! I'd done a far amount of inspecting at this point, and knew cost of parts would run high to restore and baseline. Question was; would it be worth it to keep working on. I keep going with restore.

At this age hoses are hard and cracking.Making sure no vacuum leaks is key to a good running engine. It starts with PCV hoses and in the 98-02 the PCV valve grommet.
New OEM PS PCV hose:

 

[2001LC]

These two can also be a vacuum leak source.

On close inspection these idle up control vacuum lines show cracking at the point they connect to idle up control.

In with the new idle up control vacuum lines.

 

[nissanh]

Thanks for all part numbers. Lucky LX, coming back to life.
Can you remove the intake, fuel injectors, fuel rails and cross metal pipe all as a one unit?

 

[cwmoser]

This is really good.
Wish I was there to watch you actually do this kind of work.
Ever thought about videoing some of those tasks?

 

[uHu]

This is really good.
Wish I was there to watch you actually do this kind of work.
Ever thought about videoing some of those tasks?

Yess. Why don't you go there and film him for a week or two. I could do it of course, but you are much closer. Looking forward to the result. Could even make some money...

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for all part numbers. Lucky LX, coming back to life.
Can you remove the intake, fuel injectors, fuel rails and cross metal pipe all as a one unit?

Yes, It gets cough on stuff that needs removing, but do able. I actually did it that way. The picture I posted is from my files, seems I didn't get picture of actual R&R. BTW: PN # 2329141010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION (bottom of FI in intake manifold)

This is really good.
Wish I was there to watch you actually do this kind of work.
Ever thought about videoing some of those tasks?

I have shot some 7 minute or less videos. I post them from ME MY to here in mud. My old camera lenses got dirty inside and doesn't work well anymore. I picked up a new lenses, but focus is not as shape as old. The camera also shut down after 7 minutes for some reason. So you'll see all my videos are short.

As one can imagine. It takes a great deal of my time to get pictures. I take less these days, as I've so many on file I can draw from. This saves me time doing the job, not stopping to grab the camera.

Videos take even longer to set-up, shoot, edited and post to YouTube, then to mud.

Yess. Why don't you go there and film him for a week or two. I could do it of course, but you are much closer. Looking forward to the result. Could even make some money...

Good idea!

I do allow clients in my shop as I work on their rigs. I put them to work as I explain procedure as we go. The why, how and why not!

I did have local mud member here with me a few days ago, as I worked on his 03LX. We were replacing his lower ball joints, doing a steering knuckle recondition and wheel bearing service. He wanted to learn how to do the work. I often have clients in working side by side with me. He does video shoots for a living. He asked if he could shoot the job. But unfortunately he forgot the camera gear on the day we were going to shoot assembly.

It was a 9 hour day with talking and teaching (would have been 7 hours on my own). So had he done the shoot, it would have likely a been 12 hour day. Then who knows how long to edit and condense the footage. Tear down and parts ordering was day one for ~6 hours. Reconditioning cleaning and inspected was day two for about 7 hours. Parts pick-up and assembly was day three for 9 hours. Time could have been cut ~20%, had I not been talked so much to teach and tell my stories. But still it would have been a lot of footage just shooting day three of the 9 hours of work.

That many hours of footage would need to be condensed to three segments. One for ball joints, one for Steering knuckle and one for wheel bearing. The ball joint job could be edited to maybe 15 minutes, knuckle to ~40 minutes and the wheels bearing to ~1 hour. Any videos longer would not get watch. Fact is, attention span is about 20 minutes. For many they'll not even read past first sentence here. Just like my long post.... people tend to not read more than first sentence. They'll scan picture and move on!

I'll let those of you that read this far, in on a little secret. Emerald is actually on the road and a daily driver now, running great. I'm just catching up with postings, as many asked me to post this one to see what a high mileage rig takes to restore. I've also just bough and 06LC 194K miles I just picked up last week. I can't wait to start working on and posting about in mud. Also I've Merlot to get ready for HIH in July. I'm customizing Merlot for off-road for my newest client (Merlot's new owner). It will be my first build. I've also got some more local mud member waiting to bring me their rigs for detailing or service. This hobby has become a job.

Fact is I spend 3 to 5 hours a day now, starting at 5AM, on mud posting and looking at ads across the USA for rigs and parts. I just spent 3 hours Saturday driving and buying some parts from old parting-out ad. I also get tons of PMs that I work to keep up on, trying too help others with their questions to keep their rigs on the road. I also try to watch the forum for those with question I can help with and learn from.

So I find myself taking less picture and videos these days, just due to time trying to keep up. So anyone that wants to come bye and do a shoot, they're welcome! Just as long as my ugly old face is not shown!
Ugly...................

 

[TXSunDevil]

Sounds like a job for sure. I appreciate all the detail of your posts and the knowledge you share

 

[nissanh]

Thanks for the insulator part number. Do you happen to have the top FI seal (goes into the fuel rail)?
My upcoming project is to replace the exhaust manifold on Driver side. Planning to go with OEM manifold and gasket (should I or not). Mine is just ticking in first 20 seconds and it goes away. Should I have to do it soon? By the way, I love working on my truck!

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the insulator part number. Do you happen to have the top FI seal (goes into the fuel rail)?
My upcoming project is to replace the exhaust manifold on Driver side. Planning to go with OEM manifold and gasket (should I or not). Mine is just ticking in first 20 seconds and it goes away. Should I have to do it soon? By the way, I love working on my truck!

Use only OEM, IMHO. If goes away after warm up you "don't have to" replace exhaust manifold or gasket, but not bad idea to do.

I don't have that PN # handy for top o-ring or seal. IIRC, Chuck at FIS gives them with FI servicing, when he rebuilds them. Also the top seal are not used on VVT, just the o-ring. So PN # always need checked with/by one's own VIN #. You may find in this thread: When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Old, Spark plugs didn't look bad. Certainly not 350K miles on them.

But I tossed in some new Denso TT's I picked up. It's my first time using the TT plugs. Seems I get a little less cranking on start-up (faster start). But any new plugs would do about the same. Denso claims they use less power. That means less current draw from coils (COPs) which in-turn means coils run cooler. Heat is the enemy of coils. So in theory, it means longer and better performance in life of coils. But I was a little concerned with the manufacture quality of the USA made Denso TT spark plugs. I noticed the top electrode a little off center where it attaches in about 25% of them. But they are still inline with inner/lower electrode, so their okay to use.
See the one (top electrode) on the RH is off center where it attaches/wielded.

I re-toque spark plugs as a PM these days .As I found they walk-out in about 30K miles Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!. When re-torquing I use 18ft-lbf as the crush washer is fatten already. With new I'm torquing to 16ft-lbf to see if they'll walk-out less. Note: Toyota factory recommends 13ft-lbf.

I also like taking look at spark plugs and down spark plug tube for oil, which may indicate tube seals need replacing. This engine has new head cover gaskets and tube seal, installed by Lexus Dealership...Sweet! But some plugs had halos also some oil just around bottom of spark plug base. I think it's just leftover oil and some blowing out from around spark plugs threads, from being loose walking out! If oil tube seal was bad, I'd see a lot more oil, which I did not.

I also tossed in some new Denso coils. Can't say old bad, just running a test on feel and MPG. I paid about as much for those as I did the .... , but I love new COPs

 

[2001LC]

My engine valley cover bolts were missing, so picked up some.

Hood struts are almost always shot. So popping in some new ones early in project is best. Save time clamping or propping hood up.

Anyone notice, picture of hood struts from stock footage.....Color of rig is BGP.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

Love this thread.Paul how's the suspension still AHC ?.Did you notice it was any way sluggish motor wise compared to a car less miles or may be just because it's service wise.

 

[2001LC]

All be posting up later in the thread, as I get to suspension. But it is great, with over 11 ticks on reservoir IRCC. It little lite in front end, yielding just a little bonce, so I'll adjust again, adding weight to front (CCW on torsion bars adjuster nuts). I'll need to look back and see history for what parts may have been replaced.

 

[nissanh]

I installed Denso platinum TT plugs on on my car, 4R and LC and I clearly noticed a good gas mileage on my LC (Which is my trip maker). I have a 2000 and it is non-VVTi. Will check that site. I might carefully ull the intake with the injectors.
Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Head cover bolts re-torquing is easiest done while working with spark plugs & coils. Lexus Dealership replaced head cover gasket and spark plug tube seals at 247K miles in 2012. So a re-torque 100K miles and 7 years later is a good interval. They took about 1/4 turn to get a torque of 53IN-lbf. (Inch, not pound foot of torque)

Stock photo of head cover bolt re-torque to 53IN-lbf wit a small 1/4 torque wrench.

 

[128keaton]

I love this thread. Quick question, 2001LC, how does Emerald idle? Mine always has had a bit of shake, even with constant rpms? Also, how does the rear driveshaft look? My splines are destroyed and the shaft is out of balance as a result. I got plenty of milage out of the driveshaft on my 4runner before it was too dented to be balanced (not bad splines). To you, what does a shake/vibration at idle indicate? Clogged PCV? (already have new plugs, no misfire codes) Dirty injectors?

 

[2001LC]

I love this thread. Quick question, 2001LC, how does Emerald idle? Mine always has had a bit of shake, even with constant rpms? Also, how does the rear driveshaft look? My splines are destroyed and the shaft is out of balance as a result. I got plenty of milage out of the driveshaft on my 4runner before it was too dented to be balanced (not bad splines). To you, what does a shake/vibration at idle indicate? Clogged PCV? (already have new plugs, no misfire codes) Dirty injectors?

It idles okay, now that I've finished engine major tune, which i'll be posting more of tune soon.

Many things combined or just one issue can cause shake/vibration or whats called the "D" vib. Engine minor or possible major tune may be called for; vacuum leaks, fuel, spark, valve adjustment, compression, piston rings and cylinder walls, engine mounts are just some of what can effect idle vibration or shake.

This thread may help with your shake or whats referred too as "D" vib:

Vibration and shake at Idle

Good to know, how long ago were they replaced and was there visible movement. Others did same, but said came back after a year or so. Do you have sliders or running boards? And, how about that spare tire?

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Propeller shafts (AKA driveshaft) slide Yoka splines worn out. Only has one cure; replace it with one that has good splines!

 

[128keaton]

It idles okay, now that I've finished engine major tune, which i'll be posting more of tune soon.

Many things combined or just one issue can cause shake/vibration or whats called the "D" vib. Engine minor or possible major tune may be called for; vacuum leaks, fuel, spark, valve adjustment, compression, piston rings and cylinder walls, engine mounts are just some of what can effect idle vibration or shake.

This thread may help with your shake or whats referred too as "D" vib:

Vibration and shake at Idle

Good to know, how long ago were they replaced and was there visible movement. Others did same, but said came back after a year or so. Do you have sliders or running boards? And, how about that spare tire?

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Propeller shafts (AKA driveshaft) slide Yoka splines worn out. Only has one cure; replace it with one that has good splines!

Thanks for the detailed response. Always love reading your posts (I can appreciate how in-depth you go, honestly). I did run Seafoam through the tank once already, I'll pick up some 44K since its been 5k of miles since that. My rear shaft will be getting replaced this summer once I find $400 to purchase a new one, as the splines are toast (slings all the grease out). I've done everything else in the post you linked, but I will double-check my vacuum lines.

My LX does not have the vibration dampener, hoping to figure out an aftermarket solution as $200 for some rubber is hard to swallow.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the detailed response. Always love reading your posts (I can appreciate how in-depth you go, honestly). I did run Seafoam through the tank once already, I'll pick up some 44K since its been 5k of miles since that. My rear shaft will be getting replaced this summer once I find $400 to purchase a new one, as the splines are toast (slings all the grease out). I've done everything else in the post you linked, but I will double-check my vacuum lines.

My LX does not have the vibration dampener, hoping to figure out an aftermarket solution as $200 for some rubber is hard to swallow.

You can pick up a good used propeller shaft from a parts rig. Just inspect well for play and wear. If you can see (pictures or in person) the 100 series it came from. Look for grease slung above lube points. This gives indication if propeller shaft was lube (properly maintained).

Remember while doing the tune-up to disconnect battery. Also clean and grease battery post & clamps. Keep battery disconnected ~20 minutes to reset ECM.

 

[92LXAZ]

Amazing timing, I was just searching for that PS pcv hose p/n last week. Also the engine cover hardware. Thanks!

 

[128keaton]

You can pick up a good used propeller shaft from a parts rig. Just inspect well for play and wear. If you can see (pictures or in person) the 100 series it came from. Look for grease slung above lube points. This gives indication if propeller shaft was lube (properly maintained).

Remember while doing the tune-up to disconnect battery. Also clean and grease battery post & clamps. Keep battery disconnected ~20 minutes to reset ECM.

I've been on the look out for a fender for 3 months now, plus I need a couple interior pieces. Trust me when I say I cannot find a parts rig anywhere near Memphis.

How would you inspect the slip yoke for wear or play? Just excessive movement laterally?

Thanks 2001!