Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

We've difference in years. Mainly 98-02 Toyota sell us return line as part of the whole high pressure and return line for ~$500. So we use 3/8" transmission cooler line and fuel line clamps for ~$5. 03-07 return line is available from Toyota. Suction hose IIRC are all the same form Toyota. The reservoir cleaning and flushing should be done at same time. The reservoir, can be emptied in place, and then screen in bottom inspected. If that screen is clogged you must clean it. I've found just replacing a good option for under $150, saves so much time!

If you read through these links I pulled from my master threat (first thread in my signture line). From index under "Power steering". You'll find a ton of useful info and parts numbers including best deals in the links.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post # 26

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Thanks for the informative videos. Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far. The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same...

forum.ih8mud.com

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Installing vane pump (power steering pump) torquing 3 mounting bolts to 13ft-lbf. Attache HP line to pump with new gasket, torque union bolt to 37ft-lbf

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearing and knuckle service. (I should have posted before brakes as that was actual order.)

Pulling steering knuckle is something I like doing first time into any 100 series front end. It gives opportunity to properly inspect ball joints, TREs and needle bearings & brass bushings of axles.

The brake dust shield, bolts directly to the bare metal of knuckle. The knuckle bare metal and dust shield always seem to rust over time at this point. Also the wheel speed sensor can get rusted in. So this also gives opportunity to de-rust and do rust preventing.

I already knew the lower ball joints had play and upper ball joint boots ripped. So gather those parts along with typical parts for wheel bearings and knuckle service..

I tear it all down first day and look over to see if I spot any other parts I may need. It starts by measuring hub flange to snap ring gap.
0.25mm gap with an old snap ring which was 2.2mm thick. So I'll likely need a 2.4mm snap ring during assemble, to get a gap of less than 0.2mm.

Large seal on face of knuckle behind the wheel hub, is toast.

3/4" breaker bar make ball joint castle nuts removal so much easier.

Amazing, these still have the factory white bearing & bushing grease in back side of knuckle, after more than 350K miles.
RH axle bearing, bushing and seal looked a little cruddy.

LH axle bearing, bushing and seal looked better.

 

[2001LC]

Notice the piece of wood under front drive shaft. This is import to put in position before pulling knuckle. The seal on outboard CV tuple will be bent if it contacts the hard steel of lower control arm or ball joint.

Note: All bearings and races seat together. So it's very important to keep RH wheel bearings with same races in RH hub, same for LH side.

Inspecting wheel bearings and associated parts before cleaning is not very revealing.

 

[2001LC]

Here a few shots of ball joint work.

I'll come back to recondition, cleaning and inspecting steering knuckle, wheel hub and bearings & bushing.

Both lower ball joint were replaced. As with anything I've done on Emerald, I can post up more info or links to inspecting and R&R (remove & replace) if anyone needs the how to. I've many post that go into detail, so didn't feel need too repeat here. Saves time to just given highlights.

Press out, press in. Simple right!

New Upper boots are OEM.

Replaced differential side seal.

Replace front differentials for no good reason. They had been rebooted and likely had be replace prior to that.

 

[2001LC]

Steering knuckle and wheel hub rough cleaning and reconditioning, is next.

Here is where my jobs is very different than a INDY shop or Dealership. This is very time consuming. It's not unusual for me to spent 8 hours with just recondition, de-rusting and cleaning. Granted I'm pulling steering knuckle and recondition it as well.

Shop go by a book rate. It's not possible to clean, recondition, de-rust and set up wheel hub by the book while doing a wheel bearing job, and stay within book time. So most all shop just pack new grease in wheel bearings not even cleaning first. They just leave old grease in hub, some may add a little if low. They don't set wheel bearing breakaway preload either. Nor do they replace or set gap of hub flange snap ring. Neither do they lube axle bearing & bushing at each service, very few even know they should, much less do it. This way they can be done in 3 hours or so.

I started with high pressure wash best I can while everything was together, as part of my inspection and clean after purchase.

Once wheel bearing out, I soak them and all parts getting to them like bolt, nut, flange, etc. in petroleum based solvent. Again keep each side clearly marked in separated tubs. I also mark wheel hubs with center punch. 1 punch on LH and 2 punch marks on RH.

Next is scraping and wiping after disassembly. Then I grind, pound and file to flatten mating surfaces that others have beat and bent up. They beat-up disassembling with steel hammer as opposed to pullers and brass dowel. Then I rough de-rust with brushes, paint/rust remove wheels and hones.

Some of the studs threads need recondition. Brass dowel will not do this, they were hit with steel at some point.

 

[2001LC]

Next is solvent soaking. Solvent is only "so" effective, without agitating with brush. Using a brush to agitate is what really works to knocks off the grim. After letting solvent drip off into a catch basin. I then I go into a water based solvent while still wet, to remove the remaining petroleum based solvent and grim. This is so I don't make a greasy mess, when rinsing with water. I then dry with compress air and wipe.

The dry parts are now clean and free off oils. So they will rust very fast. I do have a rust inhibitor in my water based solvent. But still I now like to move into inspecting and then lubing right-away! If for some reason I can't get to packing bearings or other parts that are bare metal, and they must sit out. I will at coat lightly with oil. This includes brake rotors.

Inspecting cleaned parts.

Hub flange in pretty good shape actually. Most assuredly replaced not long ago.

Claw washer scored means bearing a ran loose, "chattering". This one had been used more than once and flipped, as both side were scored.

Cone washer were shot.

Inner bearing race, part that contact spindle are burnt. This will not hurt anything and can just be cleaned with green scotch pad, sandpaper or steel-wool then re-cleaned. But it does indicate excessive heat.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearing and race inspection:

This is not what I'd usually find, as these wheel bearing and races are incredibly tough. They can last forever if properly service. Remember this rig was very well Dealer maintained at Lexus. So why are they bad. Improper procedure!

The LH wheel hub large (Inner) race is not looking so good. It's scored looking.

LH large (inner) not to bad

LH outer (Small) race not looking good. Burnt & scored.

Wow worst wheel LH outer (small) bearings I've personally seen, ever.

This was only second time I've replace wheel bearings.

Believe it or not first time was because they were to good. Those needed so much torque on adjusting nut (74ft-lbf), to reach just 11 to 12lb preload. I recommended on next job, to plan on replacing bearings & races and was asked to replace now. I said to plan on it. As I know, that our wheel bearings get better with use, if properly serviced. They would have likely needed near 80ft-lbf at next service.. Concern was in stripping threads on spindle or adjusting nut. I really don't know at what torque they'd strip. I can say at 74ft-lbf on adjusting nut than bearing liked it. I tested bearing with a heat gun after HWY run and city streets. They ran cool. When I pulled them apart all components looked great. It's one of the reasons I say. "Our bearings like running tight"

 

[2001LC]

Rotor to hub bolts inspection.

The cooling fins can become weakened from rust. So clean and inspection is important. These had been replaced so fins looked okay. But found the Dealership obviously did not use a torque wrench, when installing.

Bolts not torqued in and one bolts threads damaged.

Removed and reconditioning work very well.

 

[2001LC]

Axle bearing and brass bushing.

They are not easy to make a call if bad or not.

Knuckle reconditioning revealed and issue. First the axle bearing & bushing still had factory grease, never being lubed by Lexus dealerships or INDY during service of wheel bearings, replacement of front driver shaft or rebooting. PM schedule by Toyota calls for these to be lubed every 30K miles. So at minimum they should have been lubed 11 times by now.

The brass bushing being scored and worn is no big deal. They only really need replacing when hub flange snap ring won't meet to hub flange gap spec of <0.20mm, with the max snap ring thickness available of 2.8mm. But scoring can indicate contaminates like dust, sand or what have you got on brass bushing. Sloppy front drive shaft work or bad seals will allow the contaminates in. Heck, I've even seen shop assemble without either or both the knuckle rear oil seal or outer dust seal on front drive shaft. That for sure insure future return business for that shop by the unsuspecting uninformed.

LH look brass bushing and needle bearing felt and looked good.

RH not so good

These was first needle bearing I felt need replacing. Since I did find another, in much lower mile.
Remember how this grease looked contaminated

 

[2001LC]

Axle bearings and bushings are easy to knock out and install new.

You can start with old brass bushing. Taping in, making contact with bearing race (sleeve of needle bearing) 360 degrees with equal force.

I've a socket that happens to fit perfect just riding on race of needle bearing. I use it and old brass bushing as my tools to seat.

They go in relatively easy with just lite taps. Key is to grease or oil knuckle where bearing fits, and have perfectly lined up. Than taps in making contact with race 360 degrees with equal force.

Then use old brass bushing to seat bearing as you seat new brass bushing in.

 

[abuck99]

What size socket are you using that fits as a driver for the bushing....?

 

[2001LC]

For needle bearing, I just rummaged through tool box. Found a 3/4" drive, that just happens to fit nice and square on needle bearing race. Notice above, it's drive end is in against bearing and not the socket side. Anything that fits flat and is easy to handle will do. Even old race may. But found large socket easiest to hold and handle squarely. A press would be nice. But too large for my makeshift presses (vise or clamps).

You don't need or want to drive needle bearing all the way in knuckle with socket or any tool. Bushing will do that for you, and they butt and seat nicely together. If you try to seat bearing on it's own, with a socket or any tool. You'd likely drive in to far. Look again at pictures above. You'll see needle bearing has space behind it. It can be driven in further than factory set them at, but don't. Just let new brass bushing seat it for you and it will be perfect.

On bushing I used the 3/4 drive with 1 9/16 socket. With old bushing butt end (lip) in the 1 9/16" socket end, and flat side of bushing against new bushing flat side. Then drove new bushing in until flush against knuckle.

Not yet flush (seated). Few more taps and it will be.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearings & races replaced and packed with grease.

I used my brass dowel to punched out races from wheel hub.

Used combination old race, piece of oak and brass dowel the pound in new races.

The drop in the bearing after pack hub cavity and bearing with grease.

New seal and back and hub is ready.

 

[2001LC]

Pack axle bearing & bushing with grease and install new seal in back of knuckle.

 

[2001LC]

Replace a LH AHC shock that was weeping, before buttoning up steering knuckle, wheel hub and wheel bearings.

Before starting the front end work, I flushed the AHC fluid in prep for shock replacement.

I also flushed replacement shock before installing. I've had to flush systems four times or more, to get all visible practicals out. Once a replacement shock, which was brand new OEM, needed seven flushing to get all visible practicals out. That is just way to much AHC fluid to be going through and throwaway. So I developed a filtering system, after first flush to get old fluid dumped out. I keep flushing running new fluid that comes out of system, through a transmission filter. I keep checking until no particles seen.

After first flush and some driving and actively working height control and modes. Fluid looked like this.

Re-flushed filter fluid back through.

Next flush after filtering. Still some particles.

After 5 more filter flushes. No more particles seen.

 

[2001LC]

Weeping shock replaced.

Had to use angle grinder to cut off.

Then installed shock with new seals.

 

[2001LC]

Installed the knuckle, wheel hub, set preload and new snap rings of proper sizes.
Stock photo.

 

[2001LC]

Differential front, bushings

I inspected all the front differential bushing front, side and rear. Really not bad at all. The front did have more moment then new would. So I went ahead and replaced front cushion and frt & rear stoppers (pucks). Also the rear stop. In many cases, I think just replacing the front and rear "stoppers" (pucks) would give near as much benefit. As they seem to compress the most over time. The front compression the most of the two.
Wide view of front differential bushings

Replacing these, is part of chasing drive line clunk. That clunk front D-N-R. Number one cause is always front hub flange to axle play. But once that done if still some clunk, this is number 2 most common cause. After 20 years and 350k miles, I figured "why not" just get it done. But really, they were not to bad.
Hub flange to axle play (clunk)

I've done these before with front diff out. This was done with diff in place. With air chisel it's not much more difficult. Really no big deal getting the front bushing out of the diff. I just kept working around from side to side. Once lip of cup up a little, I hit under lip with penetrating oil. It is a little more damaging to diff's aluminium bushing holder in place, which is part front of front diff cover. With care did not become and issue.

Once out, I clean up with a file and a round wire brush on power tool, to clean out female cup. Then grease to prepare for pressing in the cushion.

The cushion has a specific orientation. See the dots. Arrows point to front.

Rental press kit, make job a easier. Same as ball joint press kit.

Place in stopper (puck)

 

[2001LC]

Torque in

I then pulled rear bushing bolt, which has a nut on top that needs holding. Once out just slip out old stopper and slip in new. Than torque in bolt, again holding top nut.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Fabulous work, sir! I think I can speak for everyone when I say we seriously appreciate the time and effort you take to photograph and post up your work.