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- #541
I didn’t have the fenders off yet but plan to take them off when I’m looking into this. Thanks for the info. Will report back when I get around to it tackling this.
Builds Sandy the Tan FJ60
- Thread starter Hokie LX
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I didn’t have the fenders off yet but plan to take them off when I’m looking into this. Thanks for the info. Will report back when I get around to it tackling this.
- Thread starter
- #542
Started looking into the water leak on the driver floorboard. Tracing the water it seems to be coming down the firewall but also down the door side of the footwell. Much worse when washing the truck vs. just being in the rain. I found 2 culprits. First was a dislodged grommet on the firewall which I simply reinstalled correctly. Second was the seam sealer behind the fender and on the cowl was a mess. I bought some 3M epoxy and some wide tips for the cartridge to lay down a nicer seam. Now I'm just waiting on the epoxy cartridge gun to arrive so I can get this fixed. Meanwhile I removed all of the old seam sealer which I'll re-do and then see if the leak persists.
Another major win was finally installing my new-to-me door hinges which corrected my sagging door. I was waiting until I had the fender off at some point as it would make installing the new hinges much easier. I was getting a lot of wind noise on the way back from CO on the highway due to the door sagging enough the upper seal wasn't making contact anymore. Glad to have this fixed.
Another major win was finally installing my new-to-me door hinges which corrected my sagging door. I was waiting until I had the fender off at some point as it would make installing the new hinges much easier. I was getting a lot of wind noise on the way back from CO on the highway due to the door sagging enough the upper seal wasn't making contact anymore. Glad to have this fixed.
Brother I saw this and have to chime in.
I did everything you did so far chasing the water.
Fender, cowl, grommet, windshield seal.
As I rebuilt my doors I had to leave my truck outside, and as usual it rained. Only then did I see the water come down the outside of the glass, run under the edge of the glass, and along the backside of the inner door.
Typically - you have a vapor seal and water within the panel is blocked by it as it continues down and out the bottom of the weep holes in the door. Because I NEVER had a proper vapor seal, it just traveled down the back of the door card and onto the floorboards
There’s a really easy way to do super clean vapor seals - when you’re ready let me know and I’ll show you a nice trick
I did everything you did so far chasing the water.
Fender, cowl, grommet, windshield seal.
As I rebuilt my doors I had to leave my truck outside, and as usual it rained. Only then did I see the water come down the outside of the glass, run under the edge of the glass, and along the backside of the inner door.
Typically - you have a vapor seal and water within the panel is blocked by it as it continues down and out the bottom of the weep holes in the door. Because I NEVER had a proper vapor seal, it just traveled down the back of the door card and onto the floorboards
There’s a really easy way to do super clean vapor seals - when you’re ready let me know and I’ll show you a nice trick
- Thread starter
- #544
Tucker mentioned I needed to talk to you about this and I totally forgot to text you!
I have vapor barriers I made when I did my sound deadening but I should probably to check to make sure they’re still attached properly. That’s a good point.
- Thread starter
- #545
One of the items that reared its head during my Colorado trip was the steering box. This was a box that @Rockymtnreaper sent me off of chop top after my RockAuto seal kit didn't have what I needed to fix my stock steering box and I didn't have time to redo it before leaving for CO. After the trip, this new box was leaking worse than mine so both needed to be rebuilt.
I spent yesterday rebuilding one of them. The OEM Toyota seal kit is SO MUCH BETTER than the other one I tried. The tolerances on the teflon seals were spot on and everything went together smoothly. One change I made was to replace the o-ring, teflon seal, and metal spacer on the sector shaft with a FKM double lip seal which should work nicely. It also made installation much easier.
Seal I used: FKM Oil Shaft Seal 32 x 40 x 7mm Dbl Lip Price for 1 pc - https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-oil-shaft-seal-32-x-40-x-7mm-dbl-lip-price-for-1-pc/
Got the box installed today along with new soft lines using some 3/8" transmission cooler line and some fuel injection clamps. Going to get it bled out tomorrow hopefully. Truck hasn't been driven since I got back from SAS in August so she's needing some miles put on her!
Now to clean the front end up from the leaking PS fluid and grime that accumulated from the long trip to CO and back.
I spent yesterday rebuilding one of them. The OEM Toyota seal kit is SO MUCH BETTER than the other one I tried. The tolerances on the teflon seals were spot on and everything went together smoothly. One change I made was to replace the o-ring, teflon seal, and metal spacer on the sector shaft with a FKM double lip seal which should work nicely. It also made installation much easier.
Seal I used: FKM Oil Shaft Seal 32 x 40 x 7mm Dbl Lip Price for 1 pc - https://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-oil-shaft-seal-32-x-40-x-7mm-dbl-lip-price-for-1-pc/
Got the box installed today along with new soft lines using some 3/8" transmission cooler line and some fuel injection clamps. Going to get it bled out tomorrow hopefully. Truck hasn't been driven since I got back from SAS in August so she's needing some miles put on her!
Now to clean the front end up from the leaking PS fluid and grime that accumulated from the long trip to CO and back.
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CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Chris, this is great to know. I’ve done a few box’s in the past and all eventually leaked. Just looked up that kit # and all three overseas vendors I usually buy from are out of stock. The prices I saw were $150-175 per kit. Seems steep but I’m curious where you sourced your kit from. Thanks.
@EasternYeti I re-sealed my doors several years ago, I'd be interested in your nice trick for doing so. Spill the beans man......
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- #548
I was lucky and when I saw a post about these early 60 rebuild kits going EOL on Mud I quickly ordered any I could from Amayama, Megazip, Impex, and Partsouq. Ended up getting 3 total ranging from $48-$65 per kit. Two of them are going towards rebuilding the box yesterday and my spare box. Then the 3rd kit will be a spare.
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
Looking forward to the seam seal install. Do you have links for what you purchased?
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- #550
I actually already did it but didn’t get pictures before I put the fender back on. I used this https://a.co/d/1kAOTGP
@CenTXFJ60 when Chris got those I think there was discussion that they might be some of the last kits in the world! FWIW some of the seals are still (or were) available individually from Toyota.
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- #552
New acquisitions
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- #553
Not sure if James will chime in again or not but I used plastic drop cloth for mine. I don’t remember what thickness but it wasn’t super thin. Just cut to shape and buy some butyl rope to install. Quick and easy.
Exactly what I did, I think mine was 3mm thick. Just regular plastic sheeting from Ace Hardware and butyl rope. Pretty simple job.
hey, can you tell me what speakers are those on your door?
They're Alpine S-550 S with Cruiser Cult adapters, sound great and fit behind the stock panel really well.
Standard 5.25" Speaker Spacer / Adapter Pair
We are proud to offer the famous 5.25" speaker spacer / adapters in partnership with "TheNeek" ! These are a time proven design that allows you mount modern speakers for improved sound in our old wagons. Comes with mounting hardware. These adapters give 2" of clearance from the speaker mounting...
cruiser-cult.myshopify.com
So this will sound like sacrilege but I learned it from a buddy of mine doing it on his bmw.
The biggest PITA is usually stretching the plastic over the butyl tape. It never goes where you want and it’s seldom as tight as you want.
At any Home Depot or Lowe’s, they sell floor protectant the form of a heavy duty plastic roll. It’s basically what you lay down over hardwood floors when you’re have a renovation done at your house…one side has adhesive
It also turns out a roll is the width of our doors.
So after you make a perimeter out of butyl, you unroll the plastic from one edge of the door to another. Working your way across as you unroll it the mild adhesive keeps the plastic in place and keeps everything super tight.
It’s thick and easy to cut with a razor once rolled out, so making holes for speakers and window cranks is super easy. it’s also super easy to remove because it’s designed to be removed.
I have some photos I’ll dig up, came out great, and well worth the time.
- Thread starter
- #558
That is a good trick!
Yep, did the same with some heavy mil sheeting, was just curious if there was some secret voodoo trick I hadn't heard about.
Best thing I did was ditch the sticky butyl stuff, cleaned all of it off the doors with solvent and replaced with 3M double sided mounting tape. The sheets peel right off and stick back on like a breeze now.
