Build Sandy the Tan FJ60

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Well Sandy got a bath and an oil change with some M1 15W-50 and a new YZZD3 filter and is packed for GSMTR. Should be good to go tomorrow morning.
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My 80 TREs and 4x4Labs pitman arm conical spacer arrived to put my new FROR track bar. That'll happen when I get back.

Bonus picture of our last ONSC monthly meeting from @White Sheep who brought out his awesome new chopped LS 80 he just finished.
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Lots of fun was had a GSMTR33 but not many pictures were taken. Fun weekend. The only carnage from my truck was my ebrake button stripped out on the way there so it was duct taped in place for the remainder of the weekend.

My truck saw much less trail time than usual but with the trip to Solid Axle Summit coming up soon I didn't want to tear the truck up as it needs to be in tip top shape for the 4000+ mile trip out and back.

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The raffle prize from @TRFarmers couldn't have come at a better time. As mentioned in my last post, on my way to GSMTR, the button on my e-brake stripped out and the button flew out of my truck when I ripped the ebrake at a gas stop. I duct taped it in for the rest of the trip and took the boot off so I could reach in and press the mechanism together to set the ebrake.

Now that I'm back home and had some time, I replaced my e-brake handle with the piece from @TRFarmers that came in my raffle prize. I reached out to Seth to ask about the best way to go about removing the old handle and he was immensely helpful and shared a step by step which I'll also share below.

My old handle with effective duct-tape fix in place.
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I ended up removing my old handle with a cut off wheel. Took no time at all and then used a flat blade to pry it apart and it slipped right off
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Old vs. New Handle from The Rust Farmers. The kit includes a handle, new spring, and new button
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Close up of the new handle
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How to install the new handle:
1. Heat some water to 185F and put the handle only in there for ~4 minutes.
2. Line it up on the ebrake metal handle and use a deadblow to drive it on. It went on very easily for me with the deadblow after soaking in hot water.
3. Drive it on until it bottoms out.

Installed:
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Button and spring installed. Insert the spring and then move the internal threaded rod with one hand while compressing the spring with the new button and screwing it onto the rod.
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Then put it back in the truck with the 4 bolts and hook up the cable with the nut
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All in all this project took maybe 15 minutes and now my ebrake is all fixed! The handle kit from The Rust Farmers is really nice and feels fantastic. This is the 2nd or 3rd item from them that I've installed and all of them have been spot on fitment wise and are excellent quality. Highly recommend them to anyone!



Here are the installation instructions from Seth at TRF for anyone wanting to see his exact words.

"It's a tolerance fit. The handle is designed to take 100lbs of pull force to remove, once installed.
To install, remove the old handle, spring, and button.
Heat water to 185 degrees and let the handle soak for 4 minutes.
Spray windex on the metal handle.
Have a dead blow hammer ready.
Remove the handle from the hot water using proper PPE (gloves and safety glasses).
Line up spine of plastic handle with metal handle. Keep an eye on it as it tends to twist on you.
Hit it with the dead blow until it bottoms. Use the flashlight to verify it's bottomed out. Keep an eye on the orientation. All this has to happen quickly (like 30 seconds). I recommend you practice a few times via dry run.
Install spring
Install new button."
 
Spur of the moment project today was installing my Huracan tailgate storage that I got in the group buy a while ago. I'm going to need all the storage I can get for my upcoming trip so this was the right time to get it installed. Hoping to get my recovery gear in there as well as some other items to free up space in my drawer. Seems like a decent piece but time will tell. I'm heading out to SAS in Colorado next week so it will see a lot of use over the next 2-3 weeks.

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Initial loadout for the tailgate storage. Tow strap, tree saver, couple shackles, soft shackles, extension cord, power adapters, ratchet straps, pull straps. Still have some more space to play with.

Getting all of this out of my drawer is refreshing.

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Consider this.

You're off camber in an obstacle or situation you have no business being in, or went terribly wrong. You can't get out of the truck, and are relying on your trail buddies to recover you while you manage the clutch and/or winch. Alternately, you get yourself stuck in a spot where you can't open your tailgate because you're against a wall/tree/ground.

Is anything in there that you'd need in that type of situation? Is it smart to put your recovery gear that far away from you.

I say that because that's how I used to pack my tailgate. Don't do that. Put stuff in there you'd use when "camping", not stuff you'd use during recovery. Recovery gear needs to be close to your seat, within arms reach of your seat belted driving position if possible.

That's why I keep my stuff behind my front seat, in my center console, and my soft shackles on my passenger grab bar.
 
Fair point. That gives me a new idea of where to stash the recovery gear actually which I'll try out tomorrow. If I can relocate the recovery gear inside the truck accessible but out of the way, I can use the tailgate to alleviate even more stuff out of my drawer which is ideal.
 
Center console for the snatch block and tree saver. Dash grab bar for the soft shackles. Win
 
Center console for the snatch block and tree saver. Dash grab bar for the soft shackles. Win
Yes Sensei

Figure it out, We will be on the road heading out west in a week! :)
Getting close! Most of the camping gear is packed. Hoping to have the truck packed by Tuesday so I'm not rushing Wednesday to get it done.
 
Well as I was packing up my tailgate I inadvertently popped one of the hinge rods off of the handle mechanism and my tailgate was stuck shut. Anyone who has rear drawers can sympathize that when you have a drawer/platform, you can’t open the tailgate storage door without removing the platform system. That was my project this morning. Luckily I installed mine in such a way that I can get it out without too much hassle. Had to prop it up with a jack stand to give me room to work.
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Once open, I also decided to remove the mechanism to clean it and both screws holding it were stripped. It had always been super loose but worked so I never messed with it. Removed the stripped screws, cleaned the mechanism, and installed new screws with nuts on the back to help keep it tight. Works great once more.
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Now to continue working on prep for SAS as I leave Thursday early morning.
 
Also got some new front fender vents and d pillar vents from @TRFarmers that I got painted up with SEM trim black and they look amazing. As with all the other Rust Farmers products I’ve gotten, these are perfect fit, finish, and excellent quality. The gaskets they come with are spot on also. Happy to finally replace my factory ones that were decrepit and the gaskets were disintegrated.

Unfinished new vs old (black).
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New gaskets
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Paint:
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Also got some new front fender vents and d pillar vents from @TRFarmers that I got painted up with SEM trim black and they look amazing. As with all the other Rust Farmers products I’ve gotten, these are perfect fit, finish, and excellent quality. The gaskets they come with a perfect also. All the contours and attachment strips are perfect fit.

Unfinished new vs old (black).
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New gaskets
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Paint:
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This is the real nitty gritty SAS prep right here 🤣

To be fair I’m also doing vanity projects at this point too.
 
This is the real nitty gritty SAS prep right here 🤣

To be fair I’m also doing vanity projects at this point too.
I'm really focusing on the important stuff lol. I painted these a few days ago and forgot to actually install them. After my tailgate lock snafu, I'm just needing to finish packing and give it a once over then should be set.
 
Truck is packed and ready to go tomorrow morning early to start my trip to Ouray, CO for Solid Axle Summit. My plan is try to make it from Raleigh, NC area to Little Rock, AR tomorrow. Roughly a 13 hour trip plus stops. That will let me have a much easier day Friday with a 9 hour drive to Amarillo, TX where I'll meet up with the TX Convoy for the remainder of the trip into Ouray.

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Picked up some spare knuckle studs, cone washers, nuts, and washers since every trip I've been on someone needs them. Luckily I haven't yet but I figured it's a good idea to have some handy just in case.
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I also got a Scepter 5 gallon water jug that fits very nicely between the fridge and side of the truck. It's ratcheted down so it won't go anywhere while wheeling. I also got a pump off of amazon for $12 that works well and should make it easy enough to get water out without removing the tank.
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Last but not least I ordered a variety of small parts from Impex a while ago that I finally received. I had wandered through parts diagrams looking for inspiration and this is the stuff I thought would be either good to have on hand or good to replace. New side cover gasket as mine seems to have the slightest leak along with new hardware and such, new gaskets and seals for the oil filter housing, fuel pump, new ignition cylinder, twist nuts for air cleaner, diff and t-case plug washers, new lock pad for rear tailgate, and a new hood latch pull cable. I'd been meaning to buy twist nuts for the air cleaner for at least 2 years so finally got those and then the lock cylinders seem to be on their way out so I ordered one to have handy for the future even though I replaced mine a few years ago.
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Also added a new patch to the dash from @TRFarmers.
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SAS#8

I just got back Sunday from an amazing trip to Ouray, CO for Solid Axle Summit #8. For those who know me personally, I went out to SAS#5 with my brother a few years ago and that trip prompted me to start searching for a 60 of my own. Wheeling and hanging out all week with @Rockymtnreaper, @EasternYeti, @mattressking, @HemiAlex, @The Machinist and others all with 60's infected me with a desire to have my own. I ended up buying my truck in November of that year...

The goal all along was to take the truck back to the event that prompted me to buy it in the first place, SAS. After a couple years of life getting in the way, I plugged away at working on the truck to prepare it for its eventual journey to Colorado. This year, it worked out for me to go.

The trip was incredible. 11 days, 4,400+ miles and 4 days of wheeling made up the trip. The journey out was full of excitement and motivation which made the miles go by quickly and I met up with the TX convoy in Amarillo, TX for the remainder of the trip. I'll break the trip into a post per day below.

The arrival into Ouray was a 2 day adventure from TX. Day 1 was driving up into Colorado and camping on the Rio Grande with the crew. Day 2 was heading up Stony Pass and into Silverton where we took the highway back to Ouray to camp.

The night at the Rio Grande was beautiful and the following day was a good easy intro to the wheeling that was going to happen in the coming days.


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However, the trip across country wasn't without its excitement. As we rolled over Stony Pass and were pulling up to Main St in Silverton, a caliper bolt finished backing out of my passenger front caliper and locked up the rotor under braking. After checking a couple hardware stores with no success and backtracking to try to find the lost bolt, I finally found Animas Towing and Recovery who graciously gave me a new bolt that would work! It may have been since they just wanted me to leave their shop on a late Sunday afternoon but regardless I was very appreciative. Back on the road, we got to Ouray KOA and settled in.


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