That's awesome. I've never doubted that you guys lived and breathed all things land cruiser even off the clock. I like seeing "behind the curtain." 
Both great rigs.
Both great rigs.
Builds Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
- Start date
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- Tags
- fj55 fj55 iron pig
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- Thread starter
- #62
Just pittleing with the old fj55 this morning! I pulled the pertronix style points out. and screwed in the points. I dont have the little post yet but when It comes in Ill install the condensor and everything else. I did some rooting around with wires found this that was not connected. any ideas to what either of these two go to? red and yellow on plug connector is closer to the firewall and black and white on the bullet style connector is longer and reaches past battery.
I also glued back the glass part of the mirror. maybe save a few dollars on a mirror for a little while. the backing plastic is pretty brittle though. I used 3m headliner glue. lets see how long it last. please excuse all the finger prints.
also added a little air freshener an homage to 50 first dates I like to think. It has already made the dusty smelling 55 smell more like coconuts.I am gravity bleeding the brakes for now. Not sure why there was no fluid but it when I got it. does look like it has lots of new lines installed. all of the bleeders opened. So from what it looks like the 55 does not have bleeders in the rear most cylinders. Like they were never there from factory? Ill try and actually bleed them with my wife when we are both off work.
also check out that epic oem factory am radio! how the heck does that still exist in there??
Not a whole lot done since I am waitng on parts. More soon though.
I also glued back the glass part of the mirror. maybe save a few dollars on a mirror for a little while. the backing plastic is pretty brittle though. I used 3m headliner glue. lets see how long it last. please excuse all the finger prints.
also added a little air freshener an homage to 50 first dates I like to think. It has already made the dusty smelling 55 smell more like coconuts.I am gravity bleeding the brakes for now. Not sure why there was no fluid but it when I got it. does look like it has lots of new lines installed. all of the bleeders opened. So from what it looks like the 55 does not have bleeders in the rear most cylinders. Like they were never there from factory? Ill try and actually bleed them with my wife when we are both off work.
also check out that epic oem factory am radio! how the heck does that still exist in there??
Not a whole lot done since I am waitng on parts. More soon though.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
There are bleeders in the rear and you still buy them new. At least the top number, 47547-12010, is still available; as is the cap.
You need to make sure you have 10mm fittings on the brake lines and not 9mm. I think these started out as 9mm but quickly moved to 10mm on the 40 and 55 models. Pretty sure that fitting will work as long as yours are 10mm.
Not a great photo but the bleeder should be on the front of the front brake cylinder.
You need to make sure you have 10mm fittings on the brake lines and not 9mm. I think these started out as 9mm but quickly moved to 10mm on the 40 and 55 models. Pretty sure that fitting will work as long as yours are 10mm.
Not a great photo but the bleeder should be on the front of the front brake cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #65
I am going to crawl under there and take a picture when I get off work because I was pretty sure I didnt see a bleeder on the back. I didnt see the threded hole for a bleeder there either. But I could be wrong and just didnt see them. Like I said Ill check. I am very familiar with the 9mm brake lines as it was all that on my 1964 fj40. But I am pretty sure they are 10mm. I do remember the trick to bleed them on the 40 was to adjust the shoes out so the wheels would not move, bleed them and then adjust them back.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
To be clear, that is the front side of the rear axle.
- Thread starter
- #67
Yeah Ill be honest I thought it was wierd that I didnt see a 2nd bleeder on the back side of the axle! it was like 98 degrees today so I could have just been delirious too haha.
Downey
SILVER Star
Look at my eBay #267249778300, 3rd photo. I can provide one of those adapters ( modified), with the machined metric Allen head bolts for $49.95. It must be used with the stock insulator board/block for clearance. Also, look at my eBay #265210899173, especially the 3 drawings, you’lol want that kit for your carb. Don’t buy any of it on eBay, I can merely send Mud members a PayPal invoice- -easy deal
- Thread starter
- #69
@Downey Can you pm me your info? I am interested in the adapter 100% thanks! I think I read and have it written down if you have a 500cfm holley you would use #61 jets, #35 nozzle and 8.5 power valve. I saw that somwhere on mud.
@WarDamnEagle I knew I was not crazy! front side has a bleeder and rear did not on both sides of the rear axle.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Good. That's the way it's supposed to be.
- Thread starter
- #71
huhh... I was under the impression you meant that the rear had a bleeder too. My 64 fj40 had bleeders in both the front and rear cylinders on the rear axle. I assumed that is what you are saying. this is where my confusion came from. My bad. That factory set up made it super difficult to bleed.
- Thread starter
- #72
Just doing some piddly stuff while I am waiting on parts. I will list it out:
1. I got the pinion flange bolts loose on both the front and rear axle. The new flanges should be in today but I wont get to installing them untill tomorrow. I will install the drive shafts tomorrow as well.
2. I took apart the weber carburator. and berrymans chem dipped it. I am waiting on my rebuild kit. and my cable linkage kit. Most of the gaksets seemed ok but getting harder. I will say I am glad I took it apart as there was some junk in the bottom of the float bowl.
3. I found the early temp sender and pipe that I had left over from the fj40 for the earlier ones. Glad I found it as I remember the older gages dont play nicley with the newer senders. This could not be the case but I feel like it might be. Long story short I looked for ever for that longer pipe and ended up buying it from vintage tech parts for way too much money and waited 3 months for it. Then come to find out when taking apart the SBC that was in my fj40 with my students, I found the temp sender and pipe that was for the 1f being used on the SBC. This is why Its good to keep old parts!
4. Started cleaning off the valve cover and intake. used some fine grit sand paper and clr on them. Looks way better than it did before. I also decided to install a new valve cover gasket. I should have bought 4 of those grommets for the nuts on the valve cover but I forgot. I will purchase those soon.
5. I decided I wanted the alternator in the 1f location so I got the alternator bracket installed and it mocked up. I am waiting on an alternator pulley that will work. I forgot to grab the one off the 1f alternator at Marks... oh well. I decided to put the alterntor here on the lower drivers side as opposed to the upper passenger side because I didnt want to cut and splice to extend the wiring.
6. I painted the fan shroud. it was pretty rusty looking prior. I wont install it till I get my alternator pulley in.
7. I changed the oil! I was worried I dumped a lot of gas down the carb from when I was trying to get it running. and I have no idea the last time it was looked at. I also connected the oil presser sender to the wire. and bonus! I decided to see if it would build oil pressure with just the starter! and I dont think it peaked
oil pressure it did build it to the middle before I got worried I was going to hurt the starter.
It had an older big style filter that I replaced with a denso of the same style.
1. I got the pinion flange bolts loose on both the front and rear axle. The new flanges should be in today but I wont get to installing them untill tomorrow. I will install the drive shafts tomorrow as well.
2. I took apart the weber carburator. and berrymans chem dipped it. I am waiting on my rebuild kit. and my cable linkage kit. Most of the gaksets seemed ok but getting harder. I will say I am glad I took it apart as there was some junk in the bottom of the float bowl.
3. I found the early temp sender and pipe that I had left over from the fj40 for the earlier ones. Glad I found it as I remember the older gages dont play nicley with the newer senders. This could not be the case but I feel like it might be. Long story short I looked for ever for that longer pipe and ended up buying it from vintage tech parts for way too much money and waited 3 months for it. Then come to find out when taking apart the SBC that was in my fj40 with my students, I found the temp sender and pipe that was for the 1f being used on the SBC. This is why Its good to keep old parts!
4. Started cleaning off the valve cover and intake. used some fine grit sand paper and clr on them. Looks way better than it did before. I also decided to install a new valve cover gasket. I should have bought 4 of those grommets for the nuts on the valve cover but I forgot. I will purchase those soon.
5. I decided I wanted the alternator in the 1f location so I got the alternator bracket installed and it mocked up. I am waiting on an alternator pulley that will work. I forgot to grab the one off the 1f alternator at Marks... oh well. I decided to put the alterntor here on the lower drivers side as opposed to the upper passenger side because I didnt want to cut and splice to extend the wiring.
6. I painted the fan shroud. it was pretty rusty looking prior. I wont install it till I get my alternator pulley in.
7. I changed the oil! I was worried I dumped a lot of gas down the carb from when I was trying to get it running. and I have no idea the last time it was looked at. I also connected the oil presser sender to the wire. and bonus! I decided to see if it would build oil pressure with just the starter! and I dont think it peaked
oil pressure it did build it to the middle before I got worried I was going to hurt the starter.
It had an older big style filter that I replaced with a denso of the same style.
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- Thread starter
- #73
8. and to stop you guys complaining that I am using a weber... Guess what I found in the spare parts bin in the shed! I forgot I had this carb! I had planned on using it on the fj40 but abandoned it due to the fact that It had a fuel return and more smog parts. I ended up using the Chinese carb and it worked fine. I am pretty sure I put a keyster rebuild kit in this one too. But If memory serves the power valve disintegrated or something and I got tired of messing with it.
Still going to use the weber. and might swap to a holley 2300 2bb. But also I have this as a back up haha.
9 connected all of the hoses including heater hoses. Except for the upper radiator hose because I will need to have it off to get the fan shroud on.
and last but not least
10. I figured out the fan tht will work. the 1f had a metal fan with a spacer that I ended up using because the spacing worked. I will double check my plastic fans but I think I am just going to rock this one! Ill pull it off, strip and paint it as well. including the pulleys on the front of the engine.
I also forgot to mention that gravity bleeding the brakes did seem to work pretty well. I think If I go and bleed each corner individually just a hair I'll have good solid brakes. it seems to be 1/2 pump before I feel anything. I am happy nothing seems to be leaking under there after filling it all back up.
Still going to use the weber. and might swap to a holley 2300 2bb. But also I have this as a back up haha.
9 connected all of the hoses including heater hoses. Except for the upper radiator hose because I will need to have it off to get the fan shroud on.
and last but not least
10. I figured out the fan tht will work. the 1f had a metal fan with a spacer that I ended up using because the spacing worked. I will double check my plastic fans but I think I am just going to rock this one! Ill pull it off, strip and paint it as well. including the pulleys on the front of the engine.
I also forgot to mention that gravity bleeding the brakes did seem to work pretty well. I think If I go and bleed each corner individually just a hair I'll have good solid brakes. it seems to be 1/2 pump before I feel anything. I am happy nothing seems to be leaking under there after filling it all back up.
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- Thread starter
- #74
Side note, I also want to put plugs where those injection pump/ smogg stuff that was welded to cap off. it bothers me but I am sure it works for now.
- Thread starter
- #75
I do have a question for fj55 people - I have a door that wont shut/latch all the way. is there an adjustment or fix for that?
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
Does the star gear in the door latch just spin? Mine wouldn’t latch either, pulled the door panel and hosed down the latch with PB and worked all the linkages. Got it to work after that.
- Thread starter
- #77
Thats a good question. I think it stops because I can spin it by pushing the door button. but I think it has play.
SC-Cruiser
SILVER Star
Your probably doing it already but while you doing the flanges replace the pinion seals, nows the time to do it
Maybe. Try loosening the 3 big screws on the striker, it'll move a little bit. You can get to the hinge bolts easily enough if you need bigger adjustments
- Thread starter
- #80
Its been a busy couple of days. Some updates and questions: lists as usual.
1. I got the drive shafts, pinion flanges, and pinion seals all installed. Looks good. under there. I am stoked to have that all set up. getting one step closer to driving it around.
2. I left the headlight switch on and they started to work. I noticed it when I went back outside to grab my glasses.. however they stopped working again so I guess I gotta actually track down the issue.
3. I installed the rebuilt weber 38 and it starts on the key every time. Pretty impressed. turns out I had the idle set too low on the carb and I could not get the car started because of that. Once I adjusted the idle speed up a little it worked great! I also tuned it to the best tune I could. Ill probably tune again with another check of ignition timing. Webers are really easy to rebuild!
4. Got my points, condenser, and internally resisted coil installed. seem to be working great.
5. I got the 2.5 inch down pipe installed. Right now I have it strait piped but I will find a shorter muffler that has a 2.5 inlet with a 2.25 outlet. any recommendations on cheep mufflers?
6. I have been using Rostolium Rust reformer paint all over the frame. this stuff seems to be great and I have been using it on a lot of vehicles.
7. Noticed my 4x4 Low is not engaging. I am guessing its the linkage is not adjusted all the way. feels like its in Neutral. Somthing I gotta mess with.
8. The most annoying update - I am wating on a cable linkage "kit" for the carb. Its the only think that is keeping me from driving it. Unfortunutly it seems like it may be lost in the mail. It was supposd to be here on Wednesday and keeps getting delayed.
9. I think there is no Tstat installed. I may save up for the whole housing kit.
11. Alternator is installed and charging! this is an old one I had laying around. I may buy a back up. I bought some aluminum pulley off ebay for these. the only thing I could find as City racer was out of stock.
Questions:
I cant remember the answers to this - Clutch is engaging at the tip top of the travel. I am pretty sure this is because the slave has not been adjusted yet. it is the same slave that was with the 1f engine. My question is: do you adjust the slave rod to be longer or shorter to engage the clutch sooner? I may even replace it. I think I have a spare somewhere.
Drive shafts connected!
I labeled this I think and I have no idea what it goes to? maybe the other engine had some sort of emissions stuff?
Good oil pressure according to the gage.
First time idling. I am pretty happy I am not seeing any smoke of any kind. Time will tell. Who knows how the valve seals are.
starting from inside. That squeaking went away.
I also think I may go for these tires: anybody try them on their old cruisers?
Astro Load King 7.50-16 Commercial Tires Online | SimpleTire - https://simpletire.com/paid?brand=astro&itemId=192387&mpn=tlt21htssast&productLine=load-king&tireSize=7.50-16&v=1&srsltid=AfmBOooUOPKn_hHb8Blv0NiOS8-qA5OzpfU1KqkDtdIKPR09rp_uodgJQCA®ion_id=3000039999&gQT=2&delivery=Del3
1. I got the drive shafts, pinion flanges, and pinion seals all installed. Looks good. under there. I am stoked to have that all set up. getting one step closer to driving it around.
2. I left the headlight switch on and they started to work. I noticed it when I went back outside to grab my glasses.. however they stopped working again so I guess I gotta actually track down the issue.
3. I installed the rebuilt weber 38 and it starts on the key every time. Pretty impressed. turns out I had the idle set too low on the carb and I could not get the car started because of that. Once I adjusted the idle speed up a little it worked great! I also tuned it to the best tune I could. Ill probably tune again with another check of ignition timing. Webers are really easy to rebuild!
4. Got my points, condenser, and internally resisted coil installed. seem to be working great.
5. I got the 2.5 inch down pipe installed. Right now I have it strait piped but I will find a shorter muffler that has a 2.5 inlet with a 2.25 outlet. any recommendations on cheep mufflers?
6. I have been using Rostolium Rust reformer paint all over the frame. this stuff seems to be great and I have been using it on a lot of vehicles.
7. Noticed my 4x4 Low is not engaging. I am guessing its the linkage is not adjusted all the way. feels like its in Neutral. Somthing I gotta mess with.
8. The most annoying update - I am wating on a cable linkage "kit" for the carb. Its the only think that is keeping me from driving it. Unfortunutly it seems like it may be lost in the mail. It was supposd to be here on Wednesday and keeps getting delayed.
9. I think there is no Tstat installed. I may save up for the whole housing kit.
11. Alternator is installed and charging! this is an old one I had laying around. I may buy a back up. I bought some aluminum pulley off ebay for these. the only thing I could find as City racer was out of stock.
Questions:
I cant remember the answers to this - Clutch is engaging at the tip top of the travel. I am pretty sure this is because the slave has not been adjusted yet. it is the same slave that was with the 1f engine. My question is: do you adjust the slave rod to be longer or shorter to engage the clutch sooner? I may even replace it. I think I have a spare somewhere.
Drive shafts connected!
I labeled this I think and I have no idea what it goes to? maybe the other engine had some sort of emissions stuff?
Good oil pressure according to the gage.
First time idling. I am pretty happy I am not seeing any smoke of any kind. Time will tell. Who knows how the valve seals are.
starting from inside. That squeaking went away.
I also think I may go for these tires: anybody try them on their old cruisers?
Astro Load King 7.50-16 Commercial Tires Online | SimpleTire - https://simpletire.com/paid?brand=astro&itemId=192387&mpn=tlt21htssast&productLine=load-king&tireSize=7.50-16&v=1&srsltid=AfmBOooUOPKn_hHb8Blv0NiOS8-qA5OzpfU1KqkDtdIKPR09rp_uodgJQCA®ion_id=3000039999&gQT=2&delivery=Del3
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