Resto Q & A (2 Viewers)

[diesellibrarian]

Have you seen this? https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1968-1974-fj4x-fj55-chassis-body-manual.23/download

It won't help you with your engine questions, but should help you with transmission/transfer, axle, steering, and suspension stuff.

 

[B y r o n]

If you look at NV4500 coolers you will find they have passive coolers that add additional fluid capacity and cooling fins to cool the fluid. I just have not found the equivalent for a FJ-40 transmission/transfer case. The option I listed uses the drain and fill fittings and a pump as well as cooler. You don't have to drift, you just have a desire to cool transmission fluids.

 

[1911]

... There is a dot and an arrow on the side of some giant gear they were turning for what I assume was to make the engine barely run so they could watch it running with the valve cover off.

There are factory timing marks on the flywheel, a grooved line for top dead center (of the #1 cylinder piston) and a raised bead for 7 degrees before top dead center, which is the factory spec for the ignition timing. Depending on your altitude and other local environmental considerations, you may do better with more than 7 degrees advance for the base timing.

edited to add: I see you live in Colorado; when I lived in Golden (~6,000' elevation) I never ran anything with less than 10 degrees BTDC base timing, and would increase that if I went up higher in the mountains.

 

[RedOx]

There are factory timing marks on the flywheel, a grooved line for top dead center (of the #1 cylinder piston) and a raised bead for 7 degrees before top dead center, which is the factory spec for the ignition timing. Depending on your altitude and other local environmental considerations, you may do better with more than 7 degrees advance for the base timing.

edited to add: I see you live in Colorado; when I lived in Golden (~6,000' elevation) I never ran anything with less than 10 degrees BTDC base timing, and would increase that if I went up higher in the mountains.

Thank you very much. I'm definitely going to have to change that. This thing will be going up in the mountains.

 

[RedOx]

Last thing I haven't asked about at least in this next phase is the radiator. The mechanics got this thing running back in 2021. They had found a bunch of rust in the radiator fluid. They got that cleared out. If I find rust again should I just buy a brand new radiator? If the rust is coming from the block then I don't see what good it will do. And no clue how to fix that either.

 

[diesellibrarian]

If there's red rust in the coolant, it's from the block, not the radiator. Radiators are made of non-ferrous metals, and while they can corrode, they won't turn the coolant orange/red.

If you're concerned about the radiator, pull it out and have it inspected/flushed by a reputable rad shop. You can flush the block by running water through it and the heater core until the water runs clear. While you have the system open, it wouldn't hurt to replace the thermostat and/or rad hoses (if they're looking dodgy).

 

[RedOx]

If there's red rust in the coolant, it's from the block, not the radiator. Radiators are made of non-ferrous metals, and while they can corrode, they won't turn the coolant orange/red.

If you're concerned about the radiator, pull it out and have it inspected/flushed by a reputable rad shop. You can flush the block by running water through it and the heater core until the water runs clear. While you have the system open, it wouldn't hurt to replace the thermostat and/or rad hoses (if they're looking dodgy).

Thanks guys. I'll put some stuff up once I have some progress.

 

[dazerb]

I saw that there was one for sale on Amazon but after looking at installing the pump just not something I'm going to worry about. Thanks for the info.

Get off Amazon and call kurt at cruiserteq, george at valley hybrids, SOR, matt...
They have the expertise to help get you what you need and they don't sell cheap Chinese knock off garbage like Amazon does.
IMHO

 

[Pighead]

Get off Amazon and call kurt at cruiserteq, george at valley hybrids, SOR, matt...
They have the expertise to help get you what you need and they don't sell cheap Chinese knock off garbage like Amazon does.
IMHO

Somebody had to say it, thank you.

 

[RedOx]

These are not the same nuts and washers that are mentioned in the manual from what I can find. They Haynes manual I'm using shows regular spindle nuts with the lock washer that you smash in between. I made the silly mistake of not recording the order in which these washers and nuts went on. I have put letters on them and I was wondering if anyone could tell me which goes on first. I know the thrust washer has to go back on the spindle first but this nut with the Allen screws in it and the washer with the holes are a mystery. Can anyone put the letters in the order in which these parts need to go back on?

 

[Grayscale]

Letter C looks like someone filed off the key on the inner diameter. The spindle nut with the Allen key set-screws looks homemade / modified - there isn't a regular interval on the bolt-pattern for these five set-screws. Mystery appearance remains uncertain.

I'd get a new outer nut, and star-washer / locking tab, and just build it how it is in the manual. It was probably to get around not having the jumbo socket to turn the spindle nuts? (From the knuckle to the outside: D,B,C,A?)

 

[pb4ugo]

Pretty much what @Grayscale said. I have this setup on a dana 44 frt end with Warn lockouts, except all the nuts are round. The lock washer is missing its' internal tab. The set screws engage the washers holes.

 

[RedOx]

Letter C looks like someone filed off the key on the inner diameter. The spindle nut with the Allen key set-screws looks homemade / modified - there isn't a regular interval on the bolt-pattern for these five set-screws. Mystery appearance remains uncertain.

I'd get a new outer nut, and star-washer / locking tab, and just build it how it is in the manual. It was probably to get around not having the jumbo socket to turn the spindle nuts? (From the knuckle to the outside: D,B,C,A?)

Thanks guys. I'm just going to go back to Cruiser Outfitters and order their lock washer and nuts then. I was just trying to avoid wasting parts but after the cost of the bearings and everything else it's pennies and better safe than sorry. Really appreciate how helpful this community is.

 

[Grayscale]

On their site, the spindle lock washer, is a part that I keep in stock, at home, or in a trail kit. After you bend and unbend the tabs, one bent in, and one bent out, the part is never as flat as a new one. Also, the key gets kinda tired as it is mashed up against the keyway on the hub spindle when you torque the outer nut to spec.

Mine are 50-mm hub spindle nuts, for drum brakes. The engagement with the inner nut is shallow, due to the protrusion of the axle shaft and the depth of the socket used for the task?

I had to service my hubs because they were loose. Before my ownership, the attempts to use a screwdriver, in substitute of a hub nut socket, resulted in a rough looking nuts. I filed them as flat as they were when they were new, checked them with calipers, and they remain in service, but again, the spindle lock washers are new. My thinking is that these parts all need to be flat or consistent thickness to set to spec the raceway with the roller bearings.

 

[Malleus]

You should also invest in a spindle locknut socket. If you don't you'll be in the crowd with @Grayscale's previous owner, using a scredriver, or more likely a chisel and hammer, to install and remove them. This is something you can buy on amazon, if you absolutely have to, because the torque on those nuts isn't that great and you really do need one.

What I haven't seen posted is wheel bearing grease, for the bearings. The knuckle gets black, or dark grey, moly grease, the bearings do not. They need red bearing grease.

Oh, and you should not replace the trunnion bearing shims, unless they are rusted and cannot be used to set the gap properly across the seat. If you do replace them, you must use the same thickness shims as you removed. The thickness is etched on the shim. IfNo, you cannot read the shim thickness and have to replace them, you also have to get your hands on a setting tool. The procedure for using it is in the service manual.

I sympathize with your Haynes manual use; I used one 35 years ago, before I found out that Toyota sold manuals. I haven't used one since. Spend five minutes and get a Toyota FJ40 service manual for your year model.

 

[Broski]

I avoid Amazon whenever possible !! Many of our vendors sell the 54mm socket, support small business

 

[cruiseroutfit]

You should also invest in a spindle locknut socket. If you don't you'll be in the crowd with @Grayscale's previous owner, using a scredriver, or more likely a chisel and hammer, to install and remove them. This is something you can buy on amazon, if you absolutely have to, because the torque on those nuts isn't that great and you really do need one.
View attachment 3812431

What I haven't seen posted is wheel bearing grease, for the bearings. The knuckle gets black, or dark grey, moly grease, the bearings do not. They need red bearing grease.

Oh, and you should not replace the trunnion bearing shims, unless they are rusted and cannot be used to set the gap properly across the seat. If you do replace them, you must use the same thickness shims as you removed. The thickness is etched on the shim. IfNo, you cannot read the shim thickness and have to replace them, you also have to get your hands on a setting tool. The procedure for using it is in the service manual.

I sympathize with your Haynes manual use; I used one 35 years ago, before I found out that Toyota sold manuals. I haven't used one since. Spend five minutes and get a Toyota FJ40 service manual for your year model.

Keep in mind, all of those shown are 54mm sockets which will not work for the 50mm nuts found on a drum brake axle.

You need a 50mm specific socket:

50 MM Front DRUM Hub Socket - Fits Early - 9/1975 4x/55 Applications (FA301038)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

We are working on a FA60010K kit that will include the following:
2 x Spindle Nut - Spindle Nut - Fits 1958 - 9/1975 4x/5x Series With Drum Brakes (FA60010)
1 x Spindle Lock Washer - Spindle Lock Washer - Fits 1958 - 9/1975 4x/5x Series With Drum Brakes (FA38020)
1 x Spindle Thrust Washer - Spindle Thrust Washer - Fits 1958 - 9/1975 4x/5x Series With Drum Brakes (FA38013) - https://cruiserteq.com/spindle-thrust-washer-fits-1958-9-1975-4x-5x-series-with-drum-brakes-fa38013/

You can order things individually on CruiserTeq.com or call and order (801-563-1277), we'll have the kit online today too.

 

[Grayscale]

Keep in mind, all of those shown are 54mm sockets which will not work for the 50mm nuts found on a drum brake axle.

You need a 50mm specific socket:

50 MM Front DRUM Hub Socket - Fits Early - 9/1975 4x/55 Applications (FA301038)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

I think I ordered this 50-mm socket about five-years-ago. Has anyone had issues with the axle shaft just barely making contact with the back of the socket, when you are turning the inner hub bearing nut? I was working on a stock drum brake, '75 FJ40

 

[RedOx]

You should also invest in a spindle locknut socket. If you don't you'll be in the crowd with @Grayscale's previous owner, using a scredriver, or more likely a chisel and hammer, to install and remove them. This is something you can buy on amazon, if you absolutely have to, because the torque on those nuts isn't that great and you really do need one.
View attachment 3812431

What I haven't seen posted is wheel bearing grease, for the bearings. The knuckle gets black, or dark grey, moly grease, the bearings do not. They need red bearing grease.

Oh, and you should not replace the trunnion bearing shims, unless they are rusted and cannot be used to set the gap properly across the seat. If you do replace them, you must use the same thickness shims as you removed. The thickness is etched on the shim. IfNo, you cannot read the shim thickness and have to replace them, you also have to get your hands on a setting tool. The procedure for using it is in the service manual.

I sympathize with your Haynes manual use; I used one 35 years ago, before I found out that Toyota sold manuals. I haven't used one since. Spend five minutes and get a Toyota FJ40 service manual for your year model.

Already bought a 50MM and I'll be using that with my torque wrench. I haven't looked at what weight I need to set it to but I'm sure it's in the manual somewhere.

 

[RedOx]

I think I ordered this 50-mm socket about five-years-ago. Has anyone had issues with the axle shaft just barely making contact with the back of the socket, when you are turning the inner hub bearing nut? I was working on a stock drum brake, '75 FJ40

I was afraid of this so I ordered the longest one I could find without a back, cut the back off a 52 MM spindle socket and welded that back with the drive on my 50mm. I'll be using that. I'm not worried about this because I know I can always cut it and extend it. These sockets aren't going to be taking a lot of pressure so modification is acceptable imho. The daunting part for me was keeping everything organized which didn't go well on this first one, and then how nasty and dirty it was. I assume these Birfs are the dirtiest thing made by humans.