Resto Q & A (2 Viewers)

[RedOx]

I know about RTFM already. I'm scared to tighten this spindle lock nut up to 65 lbs. Just wanting to know if anyone has actually tightened theirs to that much torque before? My manual says to do it that much but I'm just paranoid of stripping these threads. I already had one close call and just don't wanna have any setbacks.

 

[pb4ugo]

I rarely use a torque wrench. Doesn't it say something like torque to 50lbs, then back off an 1/8 or 1/4 turn? I spin the hub a bit once torqued then spin it after backed off an 1/8 turn. Install the star washer and torque outer to 50.

 

[RedOx]

I rarely use a torque wrench. Doesn't it say something like torque to 50lbs, then back off an 1/8 or 1/4 turn? I spin the hub a bit once torqued then spin it after backed off an 1/8 turn. Install the star washer and torque outer to 50.

I'll post a picture of what it says in my manual but I'll go 50 lbs and leave it. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Grayscale]

Are you concerned about the key on the star washer, jumping the key-way and cutting thru the spindle threads? Is it a new star washer?

 

[RedOx]

Are you concerned about the key on the star washer, jumping the key-way and cutting thru the spindle threads? Is it a new star washer?

Yeah all new thrust washer, nuts, and lock washer from Cruiser Outfitters. I'm just afraid of ruining the threads on the spindle or the nuts. Seeing how this thing is put together and realizing that those nuts are what keeps the wheel on LOL.

 

[RedOx]

It says 65 but I'm sticking with 50. Manual says to tighten and then back it off 1/8 to 1/6 of a turn. I did about 1/6. My home brew spindle socket was plenty deep and fits just fine.

 

[pb4ugo]

The 2nd nut should just get torqued and not backed off.

 

[RedOx]

The 2nd nut should just get torqued and not backed off

The 2nd nut should just get torqued and not backed off.

Right I did know that. I have done lock nuts on my tool box before but these are just so thin I was questioning putting this much torque between such few threads.

 

[diesellibrarian]

65 lbs is not an insane amount of torque. The nuts are thin but the force is distributed over a wide area due to their large internal diameter.

If you're really concerned about the wheel coming off, I can't see why you'd be tempted to second-guess the Toyota engineers.

 

[Grayscale]

Yes, but the area of a cylinder-shape gets substantial with diameter. These spindles are huge.

I recall an engineering lesson from the machine shop. It was that the vast majority of thread strength and tension holding occurs with just three full turns of thread engagement. I'm not sure if is folklore or not.

I discovered that my hub bearings, both of them, came loose earlier this year. It spooked me out for a while until I could figure out what was going on, and I didn't want to drive it without performing the service myself and shake-down. The previous tech didn't have the right tools, and they didn't use a flat (unbent) star lockwasher / locking tab.

 

[Broski]

It says 65 but I'm sticking with 50. Manual says to tighten and then back it off 1/8 to 1/6 of a turn. I did about 1/6. My home brew spindle socket was plenty deep and fits just fine.

View attachment 3820210

View attachment 3820211

I would suggest getting a FSM and retiring the Haynes !!

 

[RedOx]

I'll look for FSM then just to compare. I think Librarian had a good point though. I never considered how the larger the circumference of the nut, the more surface area there is to handle the torque.

 

[pb4ugo]

Fine threads offer more metal contact and engagement.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Interestingly, the 1971-1974 Toyota FSM is silent on torque values for the adjusting nuts. It just says to "tighten" them. So maybe 50 lbs is ok? 65 is probably also ok. Carry on.

Thanks to Cruiser Cult, the FSM is available here:

I printed a copy and put it in a three-ring binder. I refer to it constantly in rebuilding my '72.

 

[RedOx]

Interestingly, the 1971-1974 Toyota FSM is silent on torque values for the adjusting nuts. It just says to "tighten" them. So maybe 50 lbs is ok? 65 is probably also ok. Carry on.

View attachment 3820297

Thanks to Cruiser Cult, the FSM is available here:

I printed a copy and put it in a three-ring binder. I refer to it constantly in rebuilding my '72.

Thanks. I went to Spectre and downloaded it. This is what Cruiser Outfitters showed me also and that's why I was getting ocd about it LOL. I'm just gonna see how 50 feels at first and then go from there.

 

[Broski]

Thanks. I went to Spectre and downloaded it. This is what Cruiser Outfitters showed me also and that's why I was getting ocd about it LOL. I'm just gonna see how 50 feels at first and then go from there.

For reference the 80 guys do 30 on inner nut and 40 on the lock nut.
This has worked well for me even running 39s and doing extreme rock crawling.

 

[RedOx]

You obviously haven't looked inside the heater blower

So do we take the heater apart when it starts smelling funky? Any rough estimate on how much of an undertaking it is to go through the entire process of taking it apart, cleaning, and putting back together?

 

[RedOx]

Just wanted to say this for all the noobs like myself. For 1974 FJ40, RTFM is correct on the Haynes manual. You can tighten the spindle lock nut (outside nut) down to 65 lbs no sweat.

 

[RedOx]

Has anyone been able to find a place that sells the original brake tees? Every search comes up as dry as my brake lines. As you can see this has rust inside and I don't trust it. I found some M10 tees that look beefy enough I am considering just cutting the legs off this thing and welding them to a new one. You guys have any easy and/or creative solutions? Tip for other noobs. Taking a torch to it works for getting the crusty brake hose off but make sure you wear a respirator for dangerous gases. I got the cv shaft to seat properly in under a minute ( something everyone seems to complain about) but just getting the hose off this thing is what drove me nuts.

 

[RedOx]

Got the new pair of stainless brake tees. Installed this and made sure it fits for plenty of play in the brake lines. Now just need to put some tiny welds on it.