I can’t remember what I used, probably heater hose. It has to withstand petroleum vapors.
Resto Q & A (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter RedOx
- Start date
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diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
The best wrench for installing spark plugs is a 6" length of rubber fuel hose. Shove the porcelain end of the plug into the hose, and turn the hose to spin the plug into the hole. If you accidentally cross-thread it, you won't get very far before the hose twists off the plug, saving both the threads and your sanity.
I learned this trick from an old-school mechanic and it's never failed me yet.
My thought - seals rot from UV and ozone. Grease can turn into a brick. Do it now while there are parts. There is way better grease now days.
- Thread starter
- #25
Just ordered it. Got the Yukon kit. Again I do appreciate all the advice. Trying to limit questions but saves so much time on these diagrams. Still getting used to the way these Haynes diagrams are.
- Thread starter
- #26
Ok last question for the night. I got new seats for this thing. I want the double seatbelt installed instead of single. Should I get a mechanic to install the seatbelt? Will the give me a bunch of crap if I install the seats myself? This seems to be a regulatory grey area for the seat and seatbelt installs.
Use the proper hardware to install your stuff such as in good graded bolts/nuts at the proper locations not cheap stove bolts threw thin sheet metal, that can fail just trying to tighten them in place.
It was always like that, don't give them an in - Regulators and regulation generally suck - look at all the recalls these days, then they try and weasel out by "only stuff made on Monday and Friday, were bad". Back in the day you had to blow the doors off with explosive bolts, now they just fall off by themselves.
It was always like that, don't give them an in - Regulators and regulation generally suck - look at all the recalls these days, then they try and weasel out by "only stuff made on Monday and Friday, were bad". Back in the day you had to blow the doors off with explosive bolts, now they just fall off by themselves.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
You should download or find an actual FSM. Haynes manuals are OK, but they lack some info. Front knuckles have a service interval and I think at 57k miles you have to be close to it. Yes. all the grease needs to be removed, parts cleaned and some new trunion bearings, grease, and seals replaced. It's a messy job, but not overly difficult.
- Thread starter
- #29
I have two tubes of grease. They are about the size of a tube of caulking. How many tubes would y'all recommend? I got the petroleum based grease that says high heat. It says they use it for semi trucks.
- Thread starter
- #30
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I just recently serviced my knuckles. I think I used 2 or 3 1lb tubs and 1 or more tubes of moly grease.
I've recently been using (using ever so little) dielectric grease on the spark plug porcelain, and spark plug boot. It is greased so that the boot on the plug wire has less resistance, and I can actually feel the metal parts click in place. In the past, I've ripped a boot off of the wire during disassembly, as the boots kinda seize on dry porcelain. When I install a spark plug, there is less than a drop of motor oil on its threaded portion, reducing resistance when I'm setting the crush-washer, and I don't hold the 13/16 socket with the ratchet handle, just a short 3/8-inch extension.
Perhaps, I need to try the fuel line trick, especially for it's flexibility in the tight spots, but, does it work with dielectric grease?
I'd bet that much of the stripped threads that people experience is from soil which piles up on the side of the engine head, and ever so slightly missing the face of the plug during install causes that abrasive and material to find its way on to the threads? It is probably a greater issue with aluminum heads. For cylinders that you can see in a straight line, aiming the socket to the shape of the spark plug cavity on the casting helps correctly seat the plugs first-try. If I miss, I check the face of the plug for engine gunk. I've used a q-tip held by needle-nose pliers, and a flashlight, to gently clean the oil and sand from the periphery of the spark plug hole before, however, it is challenging to keep the crud from falling on the threaded surface. I sometimes use a fuel hose connected to the shop vac-nozzle to clean tight spots.
- Thread starter
- #33
That's great advice. I'm just going to get some 90% isopropyl or whatever cleaner that will get the grime off and make sure it's pristine before replacing. I'm glad I procrastinated on this now. Best to just avoid grime in the first place so no chance of it getting in the threads. I have a 6hp ShopVac that can handle this along with some wire brushes. I may need to replace the wires cause I did pull a couple that were stuck to the plug pretty hard.
- Thread starter
- #34
Where do you put the regular grease and where do you put the moly grease?
Why do I not see wheel bearings?
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Im a fan of KISS, keep it simple. The fsm says the wheel bearing grease should be nlgi 2, and the knuckle/birf grease should be moly. I found O'Reilly a/p offers a moly grease that's nlgi 2. I hate keeping mulitple types of wheel bearing grease, unless there's some requirement that's critical, like my NV4500 5 speed trans that requires a very specific gear lube and anything else can destroy the tranny's syncros.
There's a good video from Project Wrong Way where Ben with George from Valley Hybrids show how to service the knuckles.
There's a good video from Project Wrong Way where Ben with George from Valley Hybrids show how to service the knuckles.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I forgot to attach a pic.
- Thread starter
- #38
Are those the conic shaped bearings?
those are the trunion bearings, that's what the knuckle rotates on the axle housing
I always just change the wheel bearings at the same time.
Those are your trunion bearings, wheel bearings are sorta the same shape but bigger around
Who did you buy your kit from?
