Resto Q & A (2 Viewers)

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Have you checked out @cruiseroutfit? I got the Marlin double lipped axle seals too. I usually replace wheel bearings/races as needed.
 

I'm looking at wheel bearings on RockAuto. Looks like there are a variety. You have any pictures of the ones you suggest?
No. A bit of advice. Find Cruiser Outfitters, call them, talk to the guy, tell him what you're doing. If you had done this before, they would have asked "with wheel bearings or without?"
 
Have you checked out @cruiseroutfit? I got the Marlin double lipped axle seals too. I usually replace wheel bearings/races as needed.

No. A bit of advice. Find Cruiser Outfitters, call them, talk to the guy, tell him what you're doing. If you had done this before, they would have asked "with wheel bearings or without?"

Cruiser Outfitters sells quality Koyo bearings.

+1 on the Marlin HD axle seals; well worth it.
 
Cruiser Outfitters sells quality Koyo bearings.

+1 on the Marlin HD axle seals; well worth it.

We sell the Marlin Seals @ Cruiser Outfitters too!
 
No. A bit of advice. Find Cruiser Outfitters, call them, talk to the guy, tell him what you're doing. If you had done this before, they would have asked "with wheel bearings or without?"
I called my local place for time sake. If they can't get me a decent deal within a decent time I'm using Cruiser Outfitters. They are the only link I have seen on here that actually works without any security issues. I appreciate the reference. Definitely going to call them about other parts when I finish the stuff I'm working on now.
 
Do you guys see any problem installing a transmission cooler on the F 1.5? It's a three speed.
 
Also this stuff should do the trick for the knuckle right? The dude at Outfitters said you gotta pack the grease and this is similar to what the 40Channel used I believe.

Bearing Grease.PNG
 
Why? And what's gonna pump the oil up to the cooler and back?
The stop and go traffic is the why. I don't know about the pump and that's why I am asking. I'm still saving for these wheel bearings right now though.
 
A manual transmission doesn't have a pump, so there's no way to pump fluid thru the cooler.
 
Just a thought but those cheap electric diode fuel pumps ($10 delivered from ebay) will move diesel. Cold 90 wt gear oil is doubtful, but hot; maybe. $15 for 10' of 3/8 copper tubing at Lowe's to make a radiator. A few fitting, some wire and a switch - <$50 you got an oil cooler. Not that you need one IMHO.
 
Not exactly true, there are ways to do it. Here is one example.
This is good to know for when I start drifting my 40 and installing a Supra manual trans. I'll also need to add diff fluid coolers and reservoirs like NASCAR uses.
 
The stop and go traffic is the why.
I think you have a solution in search of a problem. In my limited experience with 3-speeds, they just don't overheat. I theorize that stop and go traffic would be less of a problem than sustained high speeds (like the Baja500 or the Paris-Dakar).
Sure, you could plumb something in. Don't forget to include the transfer case oil cooler.
An engine oil cooler would make more sense, and might help more in the stop and go traffic.
 
My experience only: if your (stock, manual) transmission has the recommended gear lube to the proper level but is running hot, you have another non-related problem. Here are a couple that I have seen personally - an F-series motor with headers will dump a ton of heat, some of which will soak into the engine compartment, firewall, floorboards, and transmission. But the #1 cause I've personally seen is retarded ignition timing (frequently due to a rusted, non-functioning advancer mechanism). Retarded timing will heat up the exhaust real quick and heat soak into the transmission. I had one where you could not keep your hand on the shifter cane down by the floor after running on the highway.
 
I think you have a solution in search of a problem. In my limited experience with 3-speeds, they just don't overheat. I theorize that stop and go traffic would be less of a problem than sustained high speeds (like the Baja500 or the Paris-Dakar).
Sure, you could plumb something in. Don't forget to include the transfer case oil cooler.
An engine oil cooler would make more sense, and might help more in the stop and go traffic.

:rofl::rofl:

I saw that there was one for sale on Amazon but after looking at installing the pump just not something I'm going to worry about. Thanks for the info.
 
My experience only: if your (stock, manual) transmission has the recommended gear lube to the proper level but is running hot, you have another non-related problem. Here are a couple that I have seen personally - an F-series motor with headers will dump a ton of heat, some of which will soak into the engine compartment, firewall, floorboards, and transmission. But the #1 cause I've personally seen is retarded ignition timing (frequently due to a rusted, non-functioning advancer mechanism). Retarded timing will heat up the exhaust real quick and heat soak into the transmission. I had one where you could not keep your hand on the shifter cane down by the floor after running on the highway.
I have never messed with timing before so going to probably get some help with that later on. Redline explains something that sounds like what you are talking about. There is a dot and an arrow on the side of some giant gear they were turning for what I assume was to make the engine barely run so they could watch it running with the valve cover off. I'm probably going to do a video on that myself to help other noobs like myself.
 

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