Replacing Differential Housing Gaskets

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The discoloration is normal, it's part of the manufacturing process.
 
^^^
This is correct.
 
On the paper gasket, do a query on a recent post of mine containing a utube from Low Range showing a mini truck/taco diff gasket being installed. It shows how to lightly and evenly apply the toyota orange FIPG/Permatex Gray to the gasket.
 
When applying torque to the cork gasket be aware that if you over torque it it was compress to the point you will see the bolt holes. The cork is compliant like a rubber gasket.
 
On the paper gasket, do a query on a recent post of mine containing a utube from Low Range showing a mini truck/taco diff gasket being installed. It shows how to lightly and evenly apply the toyota orange FIPG/Permatex Gray to the gasket.
Good stuff!
 
How do you go about cleaning the Difff once it’s been pulled? I need to clean the housing flange surface to get a good seal. I’m thinking I should try and clean the locker of dust and minor dirt including any that might get in when cleaning the flange surface. What is the best way to clean it without damaging any seals?
 
How do you go about cleaning the Difff once it’s been pulled? I need to clean the housing flange surface to get a good seal. I’m thinking I should try and clean the locker of dust and minor dirt including any that might get in when cleaning the flange surface. What is the best way to clean it without damaging any seals?
Swab out the housing and tubes like cleaning a shotgun. A rag, broom handle and mineral spirits or some kind of solvent. The third member with the locker: scrub with a brush and spray it out with brake clean. A solvent tank would work best. Nylon brush on a drill works good for the sealing surfaces and doesn’t spin fast enough to kill you when you catch a stud.

Didn’t you just have a leaking gasket? 😂
 
Didn’t you just have a leaking gasket? 😂


Red neck solution:

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Didn’t you just have a leaking gasket? 😂
Yeah, but it’s never that simple. It was leaking on both sides of the diff axle housing. Hence removal of the 3rd Member. If you do that and pull axle shafts, you’re crazy not to renew seals and even bearings. I discovered my bearings weren’t KOYO, so why not replace with OEM bearings. And cleaning and even painting is just a normal thing to do once you have things broken down. At least, that’s how I think.
 
Add another one for the never ending list:

Oil found in the ARB air line. Conclusion is it’s leaking O-rings. Of course my Locker is an RM08 (old) and ARB has upgraded the Seal Housing where the air line goes in and where the o-rings are housed, probably because they have been known to leak. The new Seal Housing is simpler to install but you have to put in a new bulkhead fitting. All told, about $150. Good thing I pulled the pumpkin!
 
It’s a slippery slope. You are only a few steps away from a complete frame off but and bolt resto.😀

Tell me about it. I did that 25 years ago. Now I’m replacing virtually everything that I put in back then. A 45 year old vehicle and things ever stop wearing and deteriorating, even though it doesn’t see too much mileage and it’s stored in the garage year-round. But I still love working on it. Can’t do that with a new vehicle.
 
Oil will blow out of the line once the locker is activated. How often does the compressor cycle when it's engaged? They'll always lose some pressure. If you do that work you'll be resetting the backlash. You might want to check the backlash b4 you disassemble it so you can get to a similar setup.
 
Please whatever you do - don’t skip the cork gasket. Rtv is a lazy way to fix the leak and is a pain in the ass to service when you need to do any work with removing axles.

Removing the cover results in hammering in chisels and beating up the mating surfaces. It’s a joke, please do it correctly and torque the cover evenly with torque wrench. It will not leak if done correctly.

You just gotta be smarter than the thing you're working on.
 
Oil will blow out of the line once the locker is activated. How often does the compressor cycle when it's engaged? They'll always lose some pressure. If you do that work you'll be resetting the backlash. You might want to check the backlash b4 you disassemble it so you can get to a similar setup.

Oh Boy! I don't know how to do that (set the backlash). All I know is that the Locker has been blowing oil for some time. I have a nice oil spot on the hood above the compressor. The compressor does cycle regularly when engaged. How frequently? IDK... every 10-15 minutes maybe.
 
Measure the backlash before you disassemble and mark the adjustment nuts on either side of the carrier with a punch before you take anything apart. Make sure you don’t mix up the caps, adjusters or races. They have to stay together.

When you reassemble, make sure you don’t cross thread the adjusters. Do you have a dial indicator?
 

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