Replacing Differential Housing Gaskets (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rstoddard
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- Thread starter
- #82
@mattressking What is the torque spec on the cover gasket for a ‘78 FJ40? I can’t find it.
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- #83
@pb4ugo When I was re-assembling the ARB, I had a problem getting the Center Pin, or what the call the “Long Cross Shaft” back in. It basically goes through the Spider Block in the center and the Spider or Pinion Gears. What happened was the Thrust Washer got out of alignment and prevented the Pin/Shaft from going in. I pulled the Pin/Shaft our and used an extension bar to push the Thrust Washer back into place and open up the hole.
Is that going to create any issues? Obviously I can’t see exactly how the washer is aligned but assuming the hole is lined up, the washer should be aligned properly, correct? Any reason for me to be concerned?
Thx
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
You should be fine, as long as you know the the shaft went thru the center of the thrust washers.
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- #85
I sure hope it did. There should only be one. What is the worst case if it didn't get centered through the washer? Are we talking total destruction of the Diff?
This is what I saw initially:
Then when I pushed the Pin/Shaft out, it looked like this:
I pushed the edge of the bottom circle down and aligned with the hole.
Was that the center of the thrust washer? IDK for sure. The top picture is strange. It doesn’t even look like a thrust washer, which I though was round, concave with a hole in the center:
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If you got the pin through the spider gear and you didn’t see or hear the washer fall out, you’re golden. You wouldn’t miss it.
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- #87
It’s an ARB, so not exactly like a stock diff with Spider gears in that these gears don’t drop out, but I’m hoping you are right that the washer would have dropped out. Not sure if the Spider Block would keep it from dropping or not.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
From what you describe and looking at your pic I think you'll be fine. The washer probably is concave but it's not noticeable because of the contours of the housing and spider. The open part is setup like an open diff. There's side gears with spiders and washers riding on the shaft. Idk, spin it around, back and forth, with the shaft installed and see if there's noise.
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- #89
Thanks for all the help @pb4ugo and @ijonesinsp ! I hooked up the driveline and ran the engine to test the gears after everything was buttoned up and gear oil added. I didn’t detect any noise from the Diff so I think everything is good.
Do you know if there is a way to test those axle seals for leaks before I reinstall the drums and reset the brakes? I’d hate to find an oil leak later and have to redo the brakes.
Do you know if there is a way to test those axle seals for leaks before I reinstall the drums and reset the brakes? I’d hate to find an oil leak later and have to redo the brakes.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Not really. You can slide the seal on the axles bearing surface to check fit. Just install them correctly and oil and grease the seals lip. When you install the axle try to support the it so it doesn't ride on the seals lip when you slide it in. .
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- #92
@pb4ugo and @ijonesinsp
Do you know how much of the lug bolt should stick out of the wheel hole? When I put my wheels back on, it seemed like I wasn’t getting a lot of the lug bolt coming out. I had replaced the dust cover and gaskets on the axles which required me to drive out the lug bolts and torque them back on, but I’m sure they were torqued on tight. I couldn’t have lost much length if any. But the bolts are only coming out of the wheel holes about a quarter or third of an inch. I realize the lug nuts taper into the holes, so that gives a little more bite on the bolt, I’m just not sure if the bolts should be further out of the wheel holes than what I’m seeing.
Does what I’m seeing sound normal for a secure wheel mount? I’ll torque the wheels to 80-90 lbs. for sure.
Do you know how much of the lug bolt should stick out of the wheel hole? When I put my wheels back on, it seemed like I wasn’t getting a lot of the lug bolt coming out. I had replaced the dust cover and gaskets on the axles which required me to drive out the lug bolts and torque them back on, but I’m sure they were torqued on tight. I couldn’t have lost much length if any. But the bolts are only coming out of the wheel holes about a quarter or third of an inch. I realize the lug nuts taper into the holes, so that gives a little more bite on the bolt, I’m just not sure if the bolts should be further out of the wheel holes than what I’m seeing.
Does what I’m seeing sound normal for a secure wheel mount? I’ll torque the wheels to 80-90 lbs. for sure.
So it doesn’t look the same as before you took them out? You need to make sure they’re seated 100%. Can you look behind the flange to see the back of the stud?
Something like this would work on the vehicle so you don’t have to pull the axle again.
Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer https://a.co/d/6JQQfBZ
Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer https://a.co/d/6JQQfBZ
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- #95
I don’t remember how much of the bolt came out before. It just seems like there isn’t a lot of the bolt sticking out.
I checked all the bolts closely when I reinstalled them, checking to see if the back of the bolt was fully seated. Except for one or two bolts that just didn’t want to fully seat, and I’m only talking about a very small gap, they were all seated flat and the dust cover was flat and tight.
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- #96
Never saw one of these…. I just used some spare bolts and impact torque wrench to pull them in. This might have helped, but I think I obtained the same results.
As far as thread engagement is concerned, as long as the length of the stud actively engaged in the nut is at least equal to the diameter of the stud, you should be fine.
In other words, a 12mm stud has to go at least 12mm into the lug nut.
In other words, a 12mm stud has to go at least 12mm into the lug nut.
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- #98
I measured things and realized I was not seeing enough of the wheel stud to ensure a safe mount. I pulled the brake drum and I could see that four of six of the studs were not fully seated. It wasn’t a lot but it doesn’t take much to mess things up. SO, I ordered one of these tools. Hopefully I can get those studs completely seated to get a full bite on the lug nuts. It needs to be fully seated to get at least 12mm of threads. Optimally would be 14mm.
Glad you checked!
Put some anti sieze where the nut rides on that spacer and on the threads themselves. You’ll get a much better pull on the stud and it’ll have less of a chance of galling the threads on the stud/nut.
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- #100
This didn’t work. The Lisle tool is too large to fit on the end of the end the Axle flange. There is only 32mm of space between the edge of the axle flange and where the flange steps up around the center of the flange. The Lisle tool is 40mm in diameter, so it doesn’t fit (won’t sit flat on the flange plate).
You either have to have a smaller dia. tool or ?
