Replacing Differential Housing Gaskets (1 Viewer)

[rstoddard]

I have oil leaking from the rear differential inspection cover gasket (minor leakage) on the outside of the Axle housing Carrier gasket on the inside of the Axle housing.

My question is whether these gaskets can be replaced without tear-down and removal of the Pumpkin and axle shafts? All that seems unnecessary. Can I pull the Carrier cover after removing the drive line and dust cover, similar to the steps of replacing the oil seal, and renew the Carrier Gasket?

Thanks!!

 

[pb4ugo]

I'm confused on what's leaking. The rear cover?

 

[73FJ40]

I have oil leaking from the rear differential inspection cover gasket (minor leakage) on the outside of the Axle housing Carrier gasket on the inside of the Axle housing.

My question is whether these gaskets can be replaced without tear-down and removal of the Pumpkin and axle shafts? All that seems unnecessary. Can I pull the Carrier cover after removing the drive line and dust cover, similar to the steps of replacing the oil seal, and renew the Carrier Gasket?

Thanks!!

There is a cork gasket on the inspection cover and a paper gasket where the carrier attaches to the axle housing.

The cork gasket can be replaced by removing the inspection cover.

The paper gasket cannot be replaced without removing the carrier (which is also known as the pumpkin) itself. It "carries" the pinion shaft, ring gear, and bearings supporting the ring gear and the inboard ends of the axles.

The axle shafts penetrate into the carrier, so the carrier cannot be removed without removing the axles.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe you can list the part#'s of what you want to change

Land Cruiser Differential

Land Cruiser Differential, Open Differentials, Factory Locking Differentials, Bearing/Seal Kits and More, Front Differential Bearing Kit, Rear Differential Bearing Kit, Allen Head Drain Plug, Spider Gear & Side Gear Kit, Speedi Sleeve, Pinion Seal Kit, Pinion gear, ring, gear, carrier

www.sor.com

 

[rstoddard]

I'm confused on what's leaking. The rear cover?

Both gaskets: the inspection cover gasket and the rear carrier gasket. The gaskets on both sides of the axle housing.

 

[rstoddard]

There is a cork gasket on the inspection cover and a paper gasket where the carrier attaches to the axle housing.

The cork gasket can be replaced by removing the inspection cover.

The paper gasket cannot be replaced without removing the carrier (which is also known as the pumpkin) itself. It "carries" the pinion shaft, ring gear, and bearings supporting the ring gear and the inboard ends of the axles.

The axle shafts penetrate into the carrier, so the carrier cannot be removed without removing the axles.

So, if I pull the axel shafts, can I pull the carrier/pumpkin intact without disassembling, and then put the pumpkin back after replacing the gasket and reinsert the axel shafts?

 

[pb4ugo]

Yes. you may have to deal with the spider gears, they may fall out. They're easy to reinstall.

 

[73FJ40]

So, if I pull the axel shafts, can I pull the carrier/pumpkin intact without disassembling, and then put the pumpkin back after replacing the gasket and reinsert the axel shafts?

Yes, the carrier does not have to be disassembled. There is a process for removing and replacing the axles that has to be followed.

That being said, I would inspect the ring and pinion for wear. I would also replace the axle seals at the outboard ends of both axle tubes. I would also replace the fill and drain plugs with the updated allen head versions. Don't forget to buy replacement gaskets.

 

[rstoddard]

Yes. you may have to deal with the spider gears, they may fall out. They're easy to reinstall.

Is it going to be more difficult with my ARB Air Locker? Does that add any complexity?

 

[rstoddard]

Yes, the carrier does not have to be disassembled. There is a process for removing and replacing the axles that has to be followed.

That being said, I would inspect the ring and pinion for wear. I would also replace the axle seals at the outboard ends of both axle tubes. I would also replace the fill and drain plugs with the updated allen head versions. Don't forget to buy replacement gaskets.

Other than the Toyota Chassis-Body manual, are you aware of any procedures that might help me?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think you will need to detach the air line inside to get it apart and hook it back up during re-assembly. Don't bend/kink the line getting it off/on.

+1 for change all the seals while you are there. I'd be looking hard at all the gears and bearing too while I was there. Good chance you will never need to go back in there for a very long time if everything is up to snuff when you're done.

 

[Green Bean]

Probably it is just my ineptness, but I found replacement of the spider gears to be a bit of a challenge. I don't know if it would be easier, or more difficult with an ARB locker.

 

[ijonesinsp]

This whole assembly comes out together.

 

[rstoddard]

Boy, it would be sweet if it comes out intact like that, and can just be reinstalled after renewing seals and gaskets.

 

[pb4ugo]

That's an open stk diff, not an ARB.

Is it going to be more difficult with my ARB Air Locker? Does that add any complexity?

It will be different. I'm not really familiar with a ARB in a Toyota diff. Id guess pull the center pin and figure out how to get the C clips out. You won't have to deal with spiders. It's probably easier. I've found ARB's website has good diagrams. Maybe you can find instructions. As mentioned be careful with the airline.

 

[ijonesinsp]

Project Wrong Way has a video of his ARB install. Like others have said, watch out for the air line inside the housing.

 

[sogncab]

Skip the gaskets.

Waste of time in my opinion. Use the grey Permatex silicone.

 

[rstoddard]

Project Wrong Way has a video of his ARB install. Like others have said, watch out for the air line inside the housing.

Thanks, boss!! This guy can be hard to watch sometimes, but this was actually pretty good.

 

[B y r o n]

Is it going to be more difficult with my ARB Air Locker? Does that add any complexity?

Disconnect the air connection at the front of the carrier. Disconnect the u-joint flange from the carrier. Remove the rear cover. Remove the axles just like OEM. Remove all the carrier nuts and prepare to remove the carrier. Be aware there is a copper line that needs to clear the housing when removing the carrier, this is where two people will make things easier. As the carrier is being pulled out, keeping the copper air line clear of snagging the housing, simply lift out the 3rd member.

Then it is just a matter of cleaning all the surfaces for gasket replacement. You might also consider the axle seals depending on their age and condition.

 

[rstoddard]

Disconnect the air connection at the front of the carrier. Disconnect the u-joint flange from the carrier. Remove the rear cover. Remove the axles just like OEM. Remove all the carrier nuts and prepare to remove the carrier. Be aware there is a copper line that needs to clear the housing when removing the carrier, this is where two people will make things easier. As the carrier is being pulled out, keeping the copper air line clear of snagging the housing, simply lift out the 3rd member.

Then it is just a matter of cleaning all the surfaces for gasket replacement. You might also consider the axle seals depending on their age and condition.

I guess the only question I still have is what I have to disconnect to remove the axel shafts. I’ve seen different explanations and I don’t know if my ARB is the same as the one Project Wrong Way installed since it’s ~20 years old. I’ll know better when I open it up. Working on it now.