- Thread starter
- #41
Ordered mini truck p/s kit for 40. Working on drip rail install and p/s install. Took heat and BFH and loaner puller from Orileys to get Pittman arm off. Life is good! Redneck 40 ready for me to work on her tomorrow!
Redneck FJ40
- Thread starter Adog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
See if you can pull the windows out with the gaskets before you paint near them
It is very hard to tape them off
Taking the windows out is easy
Also check out monstaliner. It is another paint alternative I like the texture on mine and very forgiving on prep
Eaj71
It is very hard to tape them off
Taking the windows out is easy
Also check out monstaliner. It is another paint alternative I like the texture on mine and very forgiving on prep
Eaj71
- Thread starter
- #43
Drip well fitted and welded together and riveted to top. Now to finish the top with Marine paint Interlux Brightside. I have to roll and tip as I have no big air compressor or place to spray. Got a lot to do. Life is good.
- Thread starter
- #44
Got the first coat of paint on the top, looks good. Finished the p/s install, thanks for all the information on this site.
blossett
SILVER Star
Great progress! Mine is a 10/75 SOA 76 as well.
Top looks like it's coming along nicely!
- Thread starter
- #47
Attacking the rust in the amb doors. Excellent steel and fit from CCOT.
- Thread starter
- #48
Progress today, a friend came over this morning and helped me lift the top up and installed with new drip rail, new gasket, new w/s gasket. All stainless hardware and I am very happy. Hardtop, sides ,drip well and rust remediation has taken almost 100 hour over two months. Now on to reconditioning the amb doors. All rust has been cut out and new ccot bottoms installed. Life is good but I am tired.
Great work. Nice truck.
I installed the same minitruck PS kit on my '72 a couple years ago. Maybe its an optical illusion but it looks like there is a slight angle difference between the stub shaft on your PS box and your steering shaft.
I had an 8 degree angle there on my truck, and the rag joint shredded itself in about a year and a half. The angle didnt look like much but apparently it was too much for the rag joint. I ended up machining the stock steering shaft into a 3/4" DD end, and bought a borgeson u joint that was 3/4" DD on one end and the minitruck PS spline on the other end. I 'll update with the correct borgeson part number at home - might be something to keep an eye on.
I installed the same minitruck PS kit on my '72 a couple years ago. Maybe its an optical illusion but it looks like there is a slight angle difference between the stub shaft on your PS box and your steering shaft.
I had an 8 degree angle there on my truck, and the rag joint shredded itself in about a year and a half. The angle didnt look like much but apparently it was too much for the rag joint. I ended up machining the stock steering shaft into a 3/4" DD end, and bought a borgeson u joint that was 3/4" DD on one end and the minitruck PS spline on the other end. I 'll update with the correct borgeson part number at home - might be something to keep an eye on.
- Thread starter
- #50
That sounds like a great solution. I almost shimmed the box but installed a new rag joint instead. I felt like it was real close and hoped it will run ok. I will get one of those u joints and thanks for your comment and the part number.
The borgeson part number that I used 114925. That's a stainless U joint that is 3/4" DD on one end and 11/16"-36 spline on the other end. That spline pattern mates up perfectly with the minitruck PS box. The steering shaft on my 72 was 3/4" (19mm) OD, so I didn't touch the OD of the shaft. I had a friend with a mill grind in the flats on the shaft - to the exact dimensions of the 3/4 DD pattern.
Another note if you go with the u joint (I learned this the hard way) - THE STUB ON THE STEERING BOX INPUT IS HOLLOW! You need to add a flat detent for the setscrew, don't make it too deep or it will leak fluid through the high pressure circuit. Look at the end of the sub input shaft carefully and you can see what appears to be a raised center portion of the shaft - that's where it is hollow. I carefully ground out the flat on the spine and added copius amounts of red loctite to the setscrew and the jamb nut.
- Thread starter
- #53
- Thread starter
- #54
Rebar also on front shackles, wonder why?
Probably a "Redneck" version of anti-sway bar
- Thread starter
- #56
Looks a lot better cleaned up, after I get all this extra steel and rust and dirt off this machine, I bet the Redneck 40 will fly, and get 25 miles to the gallon.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Probably a "Redneck" version of anti-sway bar
I think you are right.
The brackets that Adog took off look like PO might have tried some type of track bar as well. I would get rid of that rebar.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Great build and progress. Nice welding skills on those body panels I am envious.
- Thread starter
- #59
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Threads
- 47
- Messages
- 1,250
- Location
- FL Panhandle. Pcola/Miramar Beach
- Website
- forum.ih8mud.com
congrats on finding a body shop. Hope it goes well. I'm meeting with a body guy next week to go over quotes and plans, it can be tough to find the right guy.
Last edited:
