Redneck FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 27, 2016
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30
Messages
163
Location
Andalusia Al
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Got this out of a barn above Buck Creek in Nov,16. Have enjoyed getting it running and chasing wiring issues with lights etc. Brakes dragging like crazy and got a lot of ideas . The tub is really good with minimal rust, frame also very good, drives fair considering the wheels are warped and the tires are 11 years old and sat up for 6 years. The top needs a lot of work as well as all four doors need new bottom skins.

The biggest problem with me is this has got to be the worst and ugliest paint job ever. Copper over metal flake green. The data plate does not have a code I can find for original color. I believe it was either white or beige. Still looking under layers of paint for color. Under gas tank is a color but I can't tell what it is yet. Got a lot of cleaning, dissembling and thinking to do.

Has anyone had a good result with rattle can paint on the dash if everything is prepared as if you were gonna use a spay gun? Kinda wanted to keep unit on wheels here for the interior resto. Need to take top off for new rain gutter and rust repairs.

Love the forum, lots of great people on here with good ideas.
 
Welcome!
 
Look way up under the dash-true color will be there
 
Look way up under the dash-true color will be there

Can also pull the windshield wiper assembly (motor and all) -- your average quick-and-dirty paint job doesn't remove it.

This does assume the truck has its original windshield frame, though.
 
Which data plate did you look for the paint code? One one the driver's A pillar or the one on the passenger's fender below the fender if a 77 or on the firewall on a 78? Earlier models without paint code I pull a lower front door hinge off tub.
 
Which data plate did you look for the paint code? One one the driver's A pillar or the one on the passenger's fender below the fender if a 77 or on the firewall on a 78? Earlier models without paint code I pull a lower front door hinge off tub.
Fj40 is a 76, build date 9/75 off of drivers A pillar, is there another, pic please.
 
@Adog you can successfully rattle can the dash if properly prepared. I painted the entire interior of my 68' Chevy pickup in 04'. No one has ever picked it out.
 
Fj40 is a 76, build date 9/75 off of drivers A pillar, is there another, pic please.


The VIN plaque should be on the passenger's fender below the battery, held on with two sheet metal screws. I don't have a picture but have 10/75 76 model and that is where it is. The paint code is on that plaque. Missed the seat belt bracket on the hard top side first time I looked at the pictures, that top is off a 77 model with the seat belt bracket and vent window. Yours would only have lap belts since the three point didn't start until 1/76.
 
Rattle can works great for interior stuff. I rattled the exterior of mine with flat paint. Rattle can will work outside but flat works best for the outside. It is difficult to get a consistent shine with gloss rattle can on big panels. You tend to see the spray strokes. Not a problem for inside though. Here's a pic of my 40. Rattle canned with Rustoleum Flat Khaki. My truck was originally Dune Beige so the interior still has its factory paint.
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I have had KS Auto up here in P-town color match aerosol base coat and then clear coat over the top; all rattle can with excellent results. This 2 stage paint has worked out very well, although originally our rigs were single stage. Excellent quality for smaller areas. But, larger panels require the panel be parallel with the ground to not show spray strokes. Take you time and save mega cash...............
 
Rustoleum Hunter Green. Got it from Home Depot. I bought 20 cans and did 4 coats on everything with 1 can left over for touch ups. Covers well and dries fairly quickly.
 
Another option, kind of a step up from spray cans but not quite to automotive single stage is to use Rustoleum Topside (boat) paint.
It has better UV resistance than regular spray cans. I did it on a previous project (Early Bronco) and it came out nice and was durable. I mixed it in a 4:2:1 ratio (paint:thinner:hardener) and used a small compressor and touch up spray gun to shoot a panel at a time.

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Progress being made on Redneck , have removed all doors and have cut out the rust on main doors and welded back the new panels from ccot. Waiting on amb door panels and gutter from ccot. Learning how to stitch weld the sheet metal is a challenge but great results. Maybe I am stupid but I have not found a website for @beno, seems like he is a popular parts source.
 
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Making progress on the Redneck 40. The dash has a 2 inch hole where a PO had installed a oil pressure gauge. I am considering using that hole for a tach and putting the stock oil pressure gauge back in operation. This Cruiser is a 76 so I guess the 4.11 gears are installed, so if tach used, what range? 0-4000 etc. Your thoughts on all appreciated on both the tach install or leaving the oil pressure gauge and if tach, range.

Have received all new oem emblems. Those that are mounted on front fender have 4 pins. I have found the original holes that were filled and drilled them out from the inside of the fender. I need to know what attaches to the pins on the backside to hold the emblem on and where to get them if possible.

Thanks
 

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