Rear Quarter Panel Protection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter VCCruzr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #2
I decided to go with 1-1/2" .120 wall tubing, thinking anything smaller would've been to wimpy looking. I started by removing the smaller tubing on my 4x4Labs wings so I could integrate it with the protection. Then I notched the lip on the fender well so I could attach to the frame rail. Here are some pictures of the progress.
Looks good Derrick. I was thinking about adding some to mine before I dent it up anymore.
Lookin good!
Nice!
Is that going to tie in up high somehow? My 4x4 labs bumper wing has left an impression on my rear quarter panel without all that leverage. I don't see how all that tubing wont bend into the body. About the only rear 1/4 protection I have seen that actually works is the Hannah rear bumper and even it does not cover enough high enough.
Lookin good. Sorry I missed the fun...
I need me something like that
Your 4x4 Labs rear bumper is not bending into the body. Your body is moving into it. The 80s body will move around a lot. Luke made the wings so tight that the body flexes into them. I have the exact same creases on both sides in the rear.
VCCruzr looks great, I was wondering when you were going to do this.
Cannon88
In the duck blind...
Looks awesome!
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
- Threads
- 169
- Messages
- 5,337
- Location
- Durango, Colorado
- Website
- www.durangomagazine.com
Nice. Looking forward the the completed pics.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for all the comments! 
I will post more pictures as I wrap things up, should be before the weekend.
Douglashuft,
Originally I wanted to tie-in the top half of the protection by drilling through the outer sheet metal and bolting through to the pillars, but decided against that thinking it could cause even more damage on a flop or roll over. These are stout and very solid on the bottom half. Their main purpose is to prevent the kind of damage that has already occurred, which believe it or not was from "just grazing" the rocks. They should prevent that. With a flop or rollover, nothing short of an exo-cage will help and I definitely don't want to go that route.
I will be putting these to the test this weekend with a 3 day trip to Johnson Valley. Gonna be running some of the Hammers as well as Bullfrog and other trails in the area. I will post how well it goes after the trip.
I will post more pictures as I wrap things up, should be before the weekend.Douglashuft,
Originally I wanted to tie-in the top half of the protection by drilling through the outer sheet metal and bolting through to the pillars, but decided against that thinking it could cause even more damage on a flop or roll over. These are stout and very solid on the bottom half. Their main purpose is to prevent the kind of damage that has already occurred, which believe it or not was from "just grazing" the rocks. They should prevent that. With a flop or rollover, nothing short of an exo-cage will help and I definitely don't want to go that route.
I will be putting these to the test this weekend with a 3 day trip to Johnson Valley. Gonna be running some of the Hammers as well as Bullfrog and other trails in the area. I will post how well it goes after the trip.
Looks great!
Very nice! Love how you did the tie in to the frame in front of the tire. I did something similar to my 60 last summer, tied in the tops of the hoops with a big assed swing out.
D
D
- Thread starter
- #18
New Idea, So Design Change In The Near Future
As I was wrapping this thing up, I came up with an idea that will tie this up on the high end. I have been wanting a roof rack for a while now and have decided to incorporate one into this armor. I will have to cut this thing up a bit as I want to run the fore and aft verticle tubes from the bottom tube up and over to the other side. and then replace the tubes for support in the same configuration as they are now. I will run a tube for the rack on the roof and cantilever it past the front tube going up and over. Add a couple of support tubes and tack in some expanded metal for a deck. No side rails as I want this low profile.
I am also going to connect the tubes that wrap around the top of my tail lights. One side will be hinged so I can flip it up to open the rear hatch, and the other side will have a cradle and pin to lock it closed.
Looking forward to your comments and/or other ideas.
Here is a ****py sketch of what I plan to do:
As I was wrapping this thing up, I came up with an idea that will tie this up on the high end. I have been wanting a roof rack for a while now and have decided to incorporate one into this armor. I will have to cut this thing up a bit as I want to run the fore and aft verticle tubes from the bottom tube up and over to the other side. and then replace the tubes for support in the same configuration as they are now. I will run a tube for the rack on the roof and cantilever it past the front tube going up and over. Add a couple of support tubes and tack in some expanded metal for a deck. No side rails as I want this low profile.
I am also going to connect the tubes that wrap around the top of my tail lights. One side will be hinged so I can flip it up to open the rear hatch, and the other side will have a cradle and pin to lock it closed.
Looking forward to your comments and/or other ideas.
Here is a ****py sketch of what I plan to do:
Very nice, clean execution to a very problematic area on the 80. This is exactly what I’ve been thinking about for years on my 80. I even had the same idea on tying it into a roof rack. The only different is the support leg in front of the rear wheel. I did not think it would be possible because it would hit the tire. Your solution of cutting in to the body was brilliant. When I do mine I am going to do two “V”s where you only have one single bar. Anything you would do differently now that’s it done?
That is Bad A$$ as usual Derrick! Have fun at the Hammers!
