So I decided to dive into an install on the Marlin gears. There are online instructions but some have stated that they leave a little to the imagination, I agree. For starters, I recommend removing the entire t-case (6 bolts). Marlin says no, Slee says yes, I say hell yes. So much easier to do the work on the bench. I did initially disassemble it on the truck but later removed the front case for reassembly. On the second truck I pulled the entire case as one piece.
Back of tranny, (6 bolt locations).
Rigged up a "cradle" by spot welding some channel iron to the jack. I highly recommend something similar as this is a beast of a t-case.
The main problem I had issues with was the actuator motor (on top of the case). Even with the case hanging down lower than normal, it is really difficult to break the seal after removing the four bolts; thought I was going to break it.
The torx screw (at the top) is 40mm. This is the screw that has to be removed to get to the spring and detent ball bearing that is used to "index" the gears when shifting the t-case. Try removing them for the first time laying on your back. Royal PITA and can really only be accomplished with a mirror. Take the whole case off!
Here's the case completely disassembled. I don't have a splitter or press so I had a local installer "set up" the gears.
One other thing that was missing from the online Instructions is the shift fork clearance. When I put the gears back in and shifted back and forth from high to low, there was only the slightest clearance on the curved casting where the fork bolts to the shaft. I feel like if the outer case/ plate would have been cinched down, there would have been contact. The other clearance instructions (provided by Marlin) are comprehensive enough.
Here is a link to the MC online instructions.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88536.0
If you decide to install a set and have problems in the process, I will be more than happy to try and help; no matter how many questions one might have.
The gears are pretty impressive BTW.
Back of tranny, (6 bolt locations).
Rigged up a "cradle" by spot welding some channel iron to the jack. I highly recommend something similar as this is a beast of a t-case.
The main problem I had issues with was the actuator motor (on top of the case). Even with the case hanging down lower than normal, it is really difficult to break the seal after removing the four bolts; thought I was going to break it.
The torx screw (at the top) is 40mm. This is the screw that has to be removed to get to the spring and detent ball bearing that is used to "index" the gears when shifting the t-case. Try removing them for the first time laying on your back. Royal PITA and can really only be accomplished with a mirror. Take the whole case off!
Here's the case completely disassembled. I don't have a splitter or press so I had a local installer "set up" the gears.
One other thing that was missing from the online Instructions is the shift fork clearance. When I put the gears back in and shifted back and forth from high to low, there was only the slightest clearance on the curved casting where the fork bolts to the shaft. I feel like if the outer case/ plate would have been cinched down, there would have been contact. The other clearance instructions (provided by Marlin) are comprehensive enough.
Here is a link to the MC online instructions.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88536.0
If you decide to install a set and have problems in the process, I will be more than happy to try and help; no matter how many questions one might have.
The gears are pretty impressive BTW.
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