Newps - 2001 LC 100 build thread…..

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I’ve been on this site for quite some time. In the past I’ve spent more of my time in the 80s section. I have an 80 Series that does all of my harder trail wheeling.

Picture 1 - 80 Series.jpg


This 100 LC will be my daily driver, expedition rig and tow vehicle. My wife and I purchase this truck back in 2007 when our second child was born. It had about 67,000 mikes on it and was in excellent condition.

Pictures 2 - Stock.JPG


It was the wife’s ride to shuttle the kids around and use on road trips. The wife has now moved on to a 2007 Lexus LS460 sedan and the LC 100 became mine, I know ha sucker!

Picture 3 - LS 460.jpg
 
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Due to a recent altercation with another vehicle (wife’s parting gift to me) my new to me LC 100 needed a little face reconstruction surgery. The front bumper was ripped off, the passenger side fender and lower front sheet metal is misshapen. It’s hard to tell from the photos the dents blend in with the paint. These photos were also taken after I spent some time with some pliers and various tools trying to get it bent back into shape.

Picture 4 - Front Bumper Missing.jpg


Picture 5 - Miss shappen fender and front valence..jpg
 
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There is also some minor damage to the passenger side frame where the tow hook bolts on. The frame horn is straight but the impact bent the frame underneath slightly in, it looks indented.

Picture 6 - Frame horn..jpg


Picture 7 - Tow hook front shot.jpg


Picture 8 - Tow hook underneath shot.jpg


I pulled the tow hook off and assumed it and the two bolts were bent. They weren’t and are perfectly straight. I’ve done some massaging to the fender and front sheet metal. It’s mostly lined up, I am debating calling dent guy to see if he can improve on my work. The only thing I really care about is that the turn signal sits flush in the fender. I think I've done a pretty good job with a pair of vise grips. If I do call a dent guy I will also have him also work on a couple of the door dings.
 
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After a couple of months of going round and round with the insurance company they finally cut me a check for the damage. They were insisting on having a body shop do the work. Since our car was still drivable (minus the front bumper) I could wait them out. Which I did and they reluctantly complied with my request and mailed me the check.

The truck started out all stock with the exception of some take off Tundra 18 inch wheels and tires I picked up on craigslist.

Picture 9 - Stock with Tundra wheels.JPG
 
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The front bumper has two round cut outs frenched into it for a set of PIAA 4 inch super white driving lights. I was planning on using the factory fog light wires and make it a clean install but have since found out the stock wiring will not work. On top of the bumper I’ve mounted two Hella Rallye 4000 lights. I will be doing a HID conversion kit shortly to these lights. I’ve also installed a WARN steel fairlead. I went with a steel fairlead incase I want to run a steel winch line. Mike at BIO suggested I use this design of fairlead with this bumper.

Picture 13 - BIO front left side.jpg


Picture 14 - BIO front right side.jpg


Picture 15 - BIO front approach.jpg
 
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Mike is sent me the bumpers and step sliders unpainted. I did this for two reasons, shipping is cheaper (everything on one pallet) cost (power coating would add another $250) and I wanted to rattle can them. This way they would be easy to touch them up after a wheeling trip to keep the rust under control.

Picture 16 - Unpainted bumper and sliders.jpg


After the bumper and step sliders arrived I realized that a rattle can approach would not be the best option. There are areas behind the wing gussets that would be impossible to reach with a rattle can.

Picture 27 - Bumper gusset.jpg


If you want to run large lights on BIO’s bumper you will need to let Mike know ahead of time. Mike cuts the winch access hole really big. I had to have some material welded on to the top bumper to mount the lights.

Picture 17 - Light Tabs.jpg


I wanted my lights mounted far enough back that they would be protected and placed in a certain location on the top of the bumper. I was originally going to go with a textured power-coat that was very similar to what Mike does. I ended up going with a semi gloss black for the bumper and step sliders. Very happy I did. It looks great; I do not think I would have liked the textured look as much.
 
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For shocks I went with the Bilstein 5100’s HD in the stock length. If think if I had to do this again I would go with the OME shocks. I am probably giving up a little down travel with the Bilstein stock length shocks. Suspension will be OME torsion bars, 865 rear springs with BIO diff drop. I have the stock rear bumper and no 3rd row seats. I will eventually add a rear bumper with swing-outs and home made drawer systems. When that day comes I may need to upgrade the rear springs or add spacers. I purchased a set of the Timbern Bumpstops for the front only. Since this truck will spend most of it’s trail time bombing around the fire roads in Ocotillo Wells these seem like a good investment. I’ve tagged my Slee bumpstops pretty hard in the past in the 80. I am only doing the front ones right now, I will see how this does. If need be, I will upgrade the rears too. I don’t ever jump my trucks, I’ve learned that lesson with previous rigs. These are for that unknown dip or woops that come out of nowhere when you are flying down the trail.

Picture 22 - Timbren Bumpstops 1.jpg


Picture 23 - Timbren Bumpstops 2.JPG


In the future I would like to upgrade my suspension to include the Just Differentials.com upper control arms and set of the Radflo 2.5” remote reservoir shocks all the way around.

For tires I am going to run the Nitto Trail Grappler’s in the 295-75-18 it’s a 34 ½ tall tire that’s 11 ½ inches wide.

Picture 18 - Nitto Trail Grappler.jpg
 
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I will also be towing a small enclosed trail from time to time for camping and transporting the dirt bike, quads and a side by side. Trailer weighs around 1,200 lbs empty, tongue weight will be around 300 to 500 lbs depending on what’s inside.

Picture 19 - Trailer.jpg


Up top I maybe installing a Hannibal roof rack that I purchased used some time ago.

Picture 20 - Roof rack.jpg


The top support bars were cut off, it’s now a flat low profile design. It also came with four IPF 4” off-road lights mounted on the front of it. If I mount the rack I am going to use the Gamiviti 100 Series Towers.

Picture 21 - Roof rake towers.jpg


Next on my list is to install the BIO diff drop and fix a leaky passenger side axle shaft boot. I will swing by my local moto shop and pickup some of the hose style claps with the threads pressed in, these are the ones that have the edges rolled up so that they will not cut into the rubber boots. I will post up a picture of them so that others can see exactly what they look like. The torsion bars, rear springs and bump stops will arrive next week. I will keep this thread updated with pictures and any feedback that I think others might find beneficial.
 
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pfran42

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For tires I am going to run the Nitto Trail Grappler’s in the 295-75-18 it’s a 34 ½ tall tire that’s 11 ½ inches wide.

View attachment 556393

Get ready for rub city! I have the same tire/size you want and I even though I don't hear my tires rub very often, I noticed many places where they rub today while I was installing a new axle. I have a lift/diff drop (check my sig) but I saw significant rub on the frame, UCAs, and fender wells (which have been trimmed). I also run 50 PSI in them. Drop that pressure down to 35-40 and rubba dub dub. I may get some self centering spacers to see if that takes care of it. Other than this issue, they have been phenomenal tires!

EDIT: PM me with your email address. I just went out and took a bunch of pictures and I don't want to mess up your build thread by posting them here.
 
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Get ready for rub city! I have the same tire/size you want and I even though I don't hear my tires rub very often, I noticed many places where they rub today while I was installing a new axle. I have a lift/diff drop (check my sig) but I saw significant rub on the frame, UCAs, and fender wells (which have been trimmed). I also run 50 PSI in them. Drop that pressure down to 35-40 and rubba dub dub. I may get some self centering spacers to see if that takes care of it. Other than this issue, they have been phenomenal tires!

EDIT: PM me with your email address. I just went out and took a bunch of pictures and I don't want to mess up your build thread by posting them here.

Sent you my e-mail address look forward to seeing the pictures. Is this only happening in the front wheel wells?
 
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For tires I am going to run the Nitto Trail Grappler’s in the 295-75-18 it’s a 34 ½ tall tire that’s 11 ½ inches wide.

View attachment 556393

I thought it came in a 295/70 R18? A 75 aspect ratio would be larger than a 35" and would most likely create rubbing challenges.
 
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I thought it came in a 295/70 R18? A 75 aspect ratio would be larger than a 35" and would most likely create rubbing challenges.


That is correct! (Billy madison)

Nitto TG comes in a 295/70/18. It measures 34.3 inches.
I only know because thats the tire im going with.

I wish more tires were made in this size. True 34" tire w/ 2 1/2 to 3 inch lift on the LC I think is perfect!! FWIW


EDIT: My bad, I just re-read the Post. Newps is talking about the trail grappler NOT the Terra Grappler. Im not sure the sizing on the Trail Grappler.
 
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Looking like an awesome build... Got a question for you though, what kind of wheeling do you do out there in Cali? Reason I am asking is because I am looking at buying the same bumper for my 100 and am worried about how low it may hang down. I am worried about the departure angle or at least I think that is what it is called. We do a lot of rock trails out here and I am worried about taking that bumper out on a trail.
 
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Looks nice.
I was looking at doing the timbrens up front as well
Do they replace all 4 bump stops up front? Have you noticed much of a difference up front hitting bigger bumps in the road?
 
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Looking like an awesome build... Got a question for you though, what kind of wheeling do you do out there in Cali? Reason I am asking is because I am looking at buying the same bumper for my 100 and am worried about how low it may hang down. I am worried about the departure angle or at least I think that is what it is called. We do a lot of rock trails out here and I am worried about taking that bumper out on a trail.

The approach angle could be better. I think the problem has to do with housing a winch. I am not total stoked with where the shackle mounts are. Looking at the construction of the bumper it make sense why they there. Here's what it really boils down to. An ARB bumper is about $1250, Slee's is $1395, BIO's was $875. I have an ARB on my 80 the bumper wings are weak and not meant for rock crawling. So now it's really between Slee and BIO. For the same price as Slee's front bumper I was able to purchase BIO's front bumper and 80% of the cost for the step sliders. Keep in mind this is also before power coating, I spent another $300 to have the bumper and sliders done. One should factor this in when compairing these two bumpers, unless you are going to rattle can them. BIO's bumper is a beast, this thing is heavy and will take on any rocks you throw at it. Since I have an 80 for my trail duties, I could have gotten away with a more pre-runner front bumper on the 100.
 
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Looks nice.
I was looking at doing the timbrens up front as well
Do they replace all 4 bump stops up front? Have you noticed much of a difference up front hitting bigger bumps in the road?

I have not received nor installed the Timbren's bumpstops so I can not comment yet. I believe they only replace one of the two stock bumpstops per wheel. I could be wrong so if any knows the answer to this please post up.
 
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So on Sunday I pulled off the passenger side tire to take a look at my leaky CV boot. Let me know what you guys think. Is this a lot of grease? Should I pump some more in to the CV boot or not worry about it? Also what kind of CV grease are people using? Preferably I would like to use one that comes in a grease can so that I can pump it in through the small side of the CV boot opening.

Picture 24 - CV boot leaking 1.jpg


Picture 28 - CV boot leaking 4.jpg


Picture 26 - CV boot leaking 3.jpg
 
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