rear body mounts (3 Viewers)

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Hooked up with the bell housing I was waiting on! That means there is nothing keeping me from trying to get this thing in. Goal is to build the mounts so just the housings.

The only flat place that I have is in the garage. Right now it is resting on its bump stops so I can get it in and out of the garage.

Can I put the engine in while there are no springs in it, or do I have to have it at ride height?

Seems that I will be trying to match the rear pinion angle and that should remain the same whether or not it"s compressed.

I have also heard that the engine needs to be at a 3 to 5 degree angle?
 
Not sure really, I was told the Chevy motor likes a rake backwards. I always thought because of the oil draining to the pump.
 
The last time I had some leaf spring work in the rear done I had them change the front 1 1/2 lift to a 2 1/2 lift. For some reason they left out the shims. My 2 hour drive home was a bit squirrely. They sent me 4 degree shims and new U bolts and the pig smoothed right out
 
I thought it might be inorder to match the rear pinion flange...?

What you all think about being on the bump stops?

Nice read Scraps!
 
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Pretty sure the rake was more for carb engines. I wouldn't worry about it. I didn't.

It is much easier to change your pinion angle than finding the perfect place and angle for 6 feet of driveline. Imo
 
What you all think about being on the bump stops?
So that will bring your front axle up, which will give you a good idea of where any interference will be between it and the oil pan. You’ll still need to set it to where your hood will close. Are you planning on running a lower profile oil pan? That may help with that decision.
 
I haven't read the referenced article from Scraps yet but I have never understood this logic. I have seen it posted a few times. With road crown and not being able to run a perfectly level road(I'm not a believer in flat earth). I am with the logic if it is reasonable, the hood shuts, and the rubber is on the road things will probably work out just fine....Pinion angle would be my biggest worry in regards to any calculation. I understand engine rake and pinion angle are relative as in 90° of one another but both have acceptable tolerances out of factory spec.
 
I ran into several problems relating to my engine/trans combo. and driveline angles. The Chevy 5.3 is pretty deep even with the different oil pan, so clearing the hood and not smacking the axle is tricky with a SUA. Then you throw in the H55 trans. which is tricky to fit under the tunnel without mods. and you're left with the pinion angle not perfect. You'll wind up with not much suspension up travel.

Good advice from J Mack is to remove all your leaves except the main spring and cycle your suspension travel until you get the perfect setup regarding the mounts. Make sure your tunnel cover fits, too.
 
Ron, you did a body lift too? IIRC
I think I would have faired better with a body lift also. The transfer case is very close to the back end of the hump. the part that is part of the body and not removable.

I think getting the engine in a good spot trumps the engine rake. And because you are going to be tight on the firewall/tunnel and trying to miss the front axle, you will end up with a rake anyway.

Besides, these Pigs are meant to climb, crawl go all over the earth. If you are worried about 3* of static angle then maybe you should just LS swap a lowered C10 or something.
 
Thanks for this discussion!

I remember the camero pan that Scraps used and the lower C10 intake has been noted, cheers! I am hoping that the 80 frame and axles being wider will allow for the needed room. I think it is at least 4" wider.

Would it be correct to say that the rear pinion angle does not change whether it is compressed or at full droop?
 

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