Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (1 Viewer)

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Factory 80 hood support rod. Pretty slick
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My only issue is with our final drive ratio's. Not sure anything is available numerically lower than 4.10's for our 80's, but with 35's we'd need somewhere around a 3.4x to be close to what GM designed the transmissions for.

From my GM buddies, the 10 has had less issues than the 8, but early 10's were not great either.
 
Also I’d be pulling the trigger on the connect and cruise option to gain a 50k warranty so both would be an option for me as the pricing is basically the same. Also if you go the crate motor option you lose displacement on demand which 4-cylinder mode is super annoying.
Connect and Cruise packages are not available AFAIK with 4x4 transmissions. I spoke with the GM Perf boys when they were here in Scottsdale at Barrett Jackson back in January about doing just this. I figured for what 12-15k just get the whole thing new with warranty. Nope. And you can't easily modify a 2wd 10l80e to 4wd.
 
My only issue is with our final drive ratio's. Not sure anything is available numerically lower than 4.10's for our 80's, but with 35's we'd need somewhere around a 3.4x to be close to what GM designed the transmissions for.

From my GM buddies, the 10 has had less issues than the 8, but early 10's were not great either.
The gearing to me feels great, but when you send the computer off to Mitch at SwapTime he sets it up for your gearing and tire size. May people are running these in old C10 with 37s and all sorts of gear ratios. As long as the computer knows what’s there it isn’t a problem.
 
Yeah, I guess so. Mitch can program the TCM to shift OK, but that doesn't change the fact that everything is going to be done at a higher RPM point internally than what it was engineered for, due to the changing to the final drive ratio.

I'm probably over-worried about this, but I don't have a lot of warm-fuzzies with these transmissions. (My other daily is a RAM Power Wagon with a 66RFE, so I'm already nervous!!!)

Still, it is the best swap option going right now. I just need to suck it up and find a good take-out, which is part of my paralysis. Not knowing what the best way to source one would be here in the Phoenix metro area...
 
Yeah, I guess so. Mitch can program the TCM to shift OK, but that doesn't change the fact that everything is going to be done at a higher RPM point internally than what it was engineered for, due to the changing to the final drive ratio.

I'm probably over-worried about this, but I don't have a lot of warm-fuzzies with these transmissions. (My other daily is a RAM Power Wagon with a 66RFE, so I'm already nervous!!!)

Still, it is the best swap option going right now. I just need to suck it up and find a good take-out, which is part of my paralysis. Not knowing what the best way to source one would be here in the Phoenix metro area...
Mine certainly does not shift high in the rpm range under normal driving conditions. Most shifts are between 1400-2400 if they even go that high. It likes to keep the RPM low. By the time I ease up to 40mph I’m in 7th or 8th gear and the shifts are so smooth I can barely feel them.
 
Starting to put together a companion thread to this one. Many thanks @mattnandie for leading the way here!

 
Great build!
 
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AC WIRING.
Video of how the wiring integrates with the SwapTime Conversion Harness.

Basically all you need is 1 wire and the factory Toyota pressure switch to remain intact.


You are an 80 series national treasure. Thank you for updating the thread!
 
So I had noticed that the intake was very loud and sounded like the LT was really trying to pull some air through it especially down low in the RPMs.

I changed out the factory airbox for a large cone style filter and made a simple support bracket off of the alternator. (That way it moves with the engine as it flexes the motor mounts). The results were a much happier sounding engine that “feels” like it runs better.

I loved the way the stock airbox looked but it simply doesn’t allow enough flow.
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So I had noticed that the intake was very loud and sounded like the LT was really trying to pull some air through it especially down low in the RPMs.

I changed out the factory airbox for a large cone style filter and made a simple support bracket off of the alternator. (That way it moves with the engine as it flexes the motor mounts). The results were a much happier sounding engine that “feels” like it runs better.

I loved the way the stock airbox looked but it simply doesn’t allow enough flow.
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Here is how I got my engine to breath extra air. I have a plug for the 4 inch inlet in the side of the airbox if I need to do any big watercrossings.
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Hey guys I haven’t forgotten about y’all! Just got back from an 8 days Disney World trip and I have to say. That’s a lot like work 🤦‍♂️😬.

Just been putting in some miles and shaking this thing down. So far pretty trouble free. On July 6th I’m towing the camping about an hour away through some good hills to see how it performs in the heat while towing.

This evening I am installed Land Cruiser Products battery tie down.

It’s a well made product, all rubber coated and fits a stock side battery perfectly. A little finicky and I’m not a huge fan of how small the “hooks” are but, for what’s out there it’s a good solution to replace the tires spark prone factory tie down.

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So I had noticed that the intake was very loud and sounded like the LT was really trying to pull some air through it especially down low in the RPMs.

I changed out the factory airbox for a large cone style filter and made a simple support bracket off of the alternator. (That way it moves with the engine as it flexes the motor mounts). The results were a much happier sounding engine that “feels” like it runs better.

I loved the way the stock airbox looked but it simply doesn’t allow enough flow.
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Have you looked into the Torfab air box?

 
Have you looked into the Torfab air box?

Here it is on a customer's 80 only thing about is they don't offer anything to fill the gap from box to fender.
Tommy

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Have you looked into the Torfab air box?

Great looking, very expensive and frankly I’m out of money for now lol
 
Hey Matt, did you do anything to retain the factory Toyota temp gauge, or are you using a different setup for coolant temp monitoring?

If you’re using the Toyota gauge, where’d you install the factory temp sensor?
 

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