Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (1 Viewer)

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Is the step stool so you or the wife can get into the 80? :rofl: Back in the day, I had a truck that had a very mild lift and I had to carry a foldable step stool so my wife could get in and out. Needless to say she was never thrilled about going anywhere in that truck.
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Lol that’s what’s this one is for
 
Something you may find hilarious but your wife will not (I am judging this off my wife's reaction). Do one of tow things, next time you are going somewhere stop her at the truck door and measure her height...bonus points if you make a carboard sign stating you must be this tall to ride in this truck. The second, depending on her actual height, send her a screenshot of this: Children 4 years and older must ride in a car or booster seat until they are 4'9'' in height, taken from the DoT site. I feel I have to warn you though, depending one her disposition that day you might get anywhere from a snarky laugh to some "me" time for a couple days.

P.S.
I really like your documentation and after reading your posts, I believe I am switching direction on how I am going to do my swap.
 
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So the hood strut would hit the ECU when the hood closed? Like I said I am switching my intent for a swap to what you are doing and want to ensure I am tracking your mods.

Do you still have the Toyota ECU behind the glove box? I was leaning toward removing it and placing the GM unit there if possible.
 
So the hood strut would hit the ECU when the hood closed? Like I said I am switching my intent for a swap to what you are doing and want to ensure I am tracking your mods.

Do you still have the Toyota ECU behind the glove box? I was leaning toward removing it and placing the GM unit there if possible.
My wiring harness has the ECU in the cab. For it to go behind the glove box, I'd have to remove the heater core. Until I find a better place, the GM ECU will sit in the glove box.
 
So the hood strut would hit the ECU when the hood closed? Like I said I am switching my intent for a swap to what you are doing and want to ensure I am tracking your mods.

Do you still have the Toyota ECU behind the glove box? I was leaning toward removing it and placing the GM unit there if possible.
Doing the same project here as Matt (and drafting off him). I think trying to put the GM ECU behind the glovebox would be super painful. The GM plugs are much bigger than the Toyota ECU's as is the GM ECU. If you're operating with out the ABS unit, there is a bunch of room in the engine bay on the driver's side, but also you'll be removing the cruise control box and throttle, so freed up room there too.

I'm keeping the Toyota ECU back there just to essentially use it as a connector for the few wires on the Toyota harness that will still be operative.
 
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You can see the ECU mounted on the driver fender, where the ABS use to be. The Harness from SWAPTIME did not have enough slack to do too much else with it and would have to be greatly extended to mount anywhere inside the cab. Plus like others have mentioned it’s rather large.
 
I put my GM ECM on the passengers' fender. I repurposed the rubber-isolated mount for the factory cruise-control, which provides a gap for the hood strut.

The GM ECM is tucked behind the relocated washer bottle to help with heat.

I can't see putting the GM ECM in where the old Toyota ECU was located due to the size of the GM connectors, and their location.

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Nice, I may see about mounting to the passenger side. As others have stated there isn't much real estate under the hood, that is why I was entertaining the relocation into the cab but it seems I will follow others efforts and not even try.
 
Yessir I’ll share anything I learn. (I’m not making this stuff up) people much smarter than me helped pave the way.
If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants 👏
Great build, impressive work.
 
Awesome! So what are your initial thoughts on the final drive ratio? How is that transmission behaving under light/normal driving?
 
Awesome! So what are your initial thoughts on the final drive ratio? How is that transmission behaving under light/normal driving?
It’s drives very well with the factory diff gearing and 315/75/16. I feel like I could even step up to 37s with no problem.

It shifts very quickly and tends to stay lower in the revs under normal driving. 70 mph is under 2000 RPMs and rarely has to leave OD in order to climb grades. It’s fantastic.
 
It’s drives very well with the factory diff gearing and 315/75/16. I feel like I could even step up to 37s with no problem.

It shifts very quickly and tends to stay lower in the revs under normal driving. 70 mph is under 2000 RPMs and rarely has to leave OD in order to climb grades. It’s fantastic.

Awesome. the LT/10 speed is definitely the way to go for this beast.
 
Awesome. the LT/10 speed is definitely the way to go for this beast.
I’m not completely sold on the 10 speed yet. I’m open to either the 8 or the 10. After driving many trucks with the 10 speed it sometimes feels like your ride is hunting for gears. Also the 8-speed is the choice behind the LT4 which makes me think it can handle the power better than the 10.

@Mudders— what would everyone choose???

The 10 has a slightly lower final gear which is worth a 100 rpm or so on the highway, but the 8 may be better for long term durability. I’m super torn on which one to go with. Also I’d be pulling the trigger on the connect and cruise option to gain a 50k warranty so both would be an option for me as the pricing is basically the same. Also if you go the crate motor option you lose displacement on demand which 4-cylinder mode is super annoying.

And a huge thank you to the OP as this thread has been the most helpful for those looking for a simple yet effective V8 swap.
 
From what I have heard, the 10 is more reliable. I would be totally happy with 8
 
I’m not completely sold on the 10 speed yet. I’m open to either the 8 or the 10. After driving many trucks with the 10 speed it sometimes feels like your ride is hunting for gears. Also the 8-speed is the choice behind the LT4 which makes me think it can handle the power better than the 10.

@Mudders— what would everyone choose???

The 10 has a slightly lower final gear which is worth a 100 rpm or so on the highway, but the 8 may be better for long term durability. I’m super torn on which one to go with. Also I’d be pulling the trigger on the connect and cruise option to gain a 50k warranty so both would be an option for me as the pricing is basically the same. Also if you go the crate motor option you lose displacement on demand which 4-cylinder mode is super annoying.

And a huge thank you to the OP as this thread has been the most helpful for those looking for a simple yet effective V8 swap.
The tune setup by SwapTime has this trans dialed in. It loves to be hammered and shifts lightening quick. But also seems happy just lugging around town. From what I can tell even loaded down I’m not pushing this trans hard at all. I didn’t multiple 0-60 pulls and highway pulls from 40-90 (looking for rich/lein issues) in 90 degree weather and I never saw more than 150 degrees trans temp.

Yes the final drive is higher but the first gear is also lower at 4.70 compared to 4.56.

In 4low on 315/75/16 and stock axle gearing I can slow walk faster than the truck will
Idle.
 
Are you running stock transfer case gear ratios too?
 

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