Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (2 Viewers)

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Hey Matt, did you do anything to retain the factory Toyota temp gauge, or are you using a different setup for coolant temp monitoring?

If you’re using the Toyota gauge, where’d you install the factory temp sensor?
There is a post detailing that (I believe) but ut tends to read high so I also use a scan gauge 2 mounted on the steering column
 
Hey Matt, did you do anything to retain the factory Toyota temp gauge, or are you using a different setup for coolant temp monitoring?

If you’re using the Toyota gauge, where’d you install the factory temp sensor?

There is a big coolant port on the DS of the block. We both used that. There is a link to the thread adapters I found on my Wintergreen build page.
 
There is a big coolant port on the DS of the block. We both used that. There is a link to the thread adapters I found on my Wintergreen build page.
Thanks!
 
UPDATE:

So its been a few months since I've gotten the 80 on the road. I've done about 4,000 miles and here is what I've found:

1) It RIPS and almost has no business with this drive train. A lifted 80 that will run 60-110mph in a blink is a handful haha.

2) My initial shifter design leaves room for improvement. The factory style motor mounts and factory GM rubber trans mount, while they do a great job absorbing vibration, they also allow the trans to "flex" enough to pull on the shifter assembly. This creates the issue of the shifter getting a bit out of alignment and the shift gates stop functioning as intended. Its never ripped it out of drive but I find myself having to hold in the shift button and counting the detents to confirm what gear I'm in. I'm going to be installing a cable style shifter ( a Lokar setup or SwapTime has one as well that I like)

3) My SwapTime MCM does not operate by tap shift as intended. Mitch said its in the tune. Easy fix

4) The location I chose for my factory oil pressure gauge and temp gauge senders suck. Almost zero accuracy. I just read my Scan Guage.

5) The base tune SwapTime puts in you ECM/TCM is just that, A BASE. The trans is never quite happy and wants to shift to higher and higher gears very quickly in the revs. In 4 low ( and without tap shift to lock it in 1st) that means 1st to 6th gear as fast as you can blink. I'm having a Mobile tuner "Titan Tune" come out this Friday to rework the ECM and TCM. He specializes in Gen V's and will also tune remotely. He comes highly recommended by the LT swap crowd. After speaking with him he's confident he can fix all of my current drivability issues including tap shift. I'll report back. Mitch even tells you to have it tuned properly. I just hadn't yet.

6) You have to get use to the way the Gen V coolant temps fluctuate. I see anywhere from 185-240 depending on how hard I flog it. (I towed our 3200lb camper 2500 miles) but, as soon as you get out of the throttle the temps drop quickly. Most reports online state it has to do with where GM put their water temp sensor. Idling around on the trail is stays 185-195 all day. Highway cruising at 75 sits at 204. The caveat to my temps could also be my tune.

7) AC works great so, at least that worked.

8) Torfab install kit has been rock solid.

9) Exhaust setup has been great, the Magnaflow has broken in a but and sounds awesome and still has zero drone at any speed.

Ill let ya'll know how the tune goes this week.
I didn't proofread any of this.
K, Bye
 
10+ years into my manual swap 6.0 and still love how it gets up and boogies. I've changed the spark plugs in that time once. This year.
 
It’s Toyota oem engine and I thought it was a GM trans mount but I may be Remembering that wrong

Tor’s kit has adapters to line up the GM engine block w/ the Toyota mounts and then the adapter plate btw the transmission and transfer case keeps it aligned with the transmission crossmember. Transfer case bolts to transmission crossmember.
 
UPDATE- Tuning

I found out from my local tuner, Titan Tuned, that the TCM (trans computer) has to be unlocked in order for him to tune it. So I had to pull it out and ship it to HP Tuners (they are the only company who can do this)

Once it’s back next week he will come out and tune the engine and trans.

BONUS TIP: If you’re using SwapTime you can ask him to have this done while he has your computer and harness for his rework. I just wasn’t aware if this option at the time
 
UPDATE- Tuning

I found out from my local tuner, Titan Tuned, that the TCM (trans computer) has to be unlocked in order for him to tune it. So I had to pull it out and ship it to HP Tuners (they are the only company who can do this)

Once it’s back next week he will come out and tune the engine and trans.

BONUS TIP: If you’re using SwapTime you can ask him to have this done while he has your computer and harness for his rework. I just wasn’t aware if this option at the time
This is a great tip, thank you for sharing!
 
UPDATE: After tune driving impressions.

I had Titan Tuned come out and do a full engine and trans tune. And I have to say, he knows his stuff. It runs and shift PERFECTLY. I should have done this months ago but kept putting it off. The base tune you get from SwapTime is just that. A BASE. With my exhaust and intake setup I was running 15% lein (not great) but Titan Tuned ironed all that out and I know run within 3% of “perfect” throughout the RPM range (factory has a range of about 10%)

With the muscle car module I also have tap shift and tow haul mode working (pretty sweet)

Temps have also come down since I’m running much better fuel to air and the trans isn’t causing the engine to work so hard.

So my final suggestion is contact Titan Tuned!

He ONLY DOES GEN V LT. He isn’t an old LS guy who sort of does both. He’s an LT expert and it shows.

If you aren’t local to DFW he also does remote tuning.

Titantuned.com


Here is an updated video:

 
It's surprising to me that the Torfab kit (or anyone else's) does not include a solution for the transmission shifter. This seems to be a "figure it out yourself" issue with any of the LS/LT swaps I've seen. Maybe there are too many transmission options, but it would seem like the Torfab kit being specific for the Gen V LT engine and just the 8 speed or 10 speed autos, they could make that part of their kit.
 
Matt a couple questions as I am about to start, what power steering pump did you use just the part number that Tejas recommend with there bracket, if doing it again would you use a remote reservoir pump? What fuel regulator did you use?

Thank
 
Matt a couple questions as I am about to start, what power steering pump did you use just the part number that Tejas recommend with there bracket, if doing it again would you use a remote reservoir pump? What fuel regulator did you use?

Thank

Link below has the pump I used. Key thing about it is that low pressure inlet ports are on the back, not the side. It’s a tight fit to the frame. I smushed the inlet ports on the pump tejas links to during the install, but maybe with more care or installing pump after putting the engine on its mounts that one could work, but would still be real tight. Not sure of Matt’s experience here. Remote reservoir pump of course would solve issue, but would probably end up having to mount the rez on the passenger side of engine bay and run a kinda long hose as the driver side is super busy with ECU, fusebox, etc. Tho I also installed a hydroboost brake system which takes up a fair amount of space.

On fuel regulators, sky is the limit on what you can spend. I think we both have moderately priced ones off Amazon, but he may correct me.

Post in thread 'Project Wintergreen - '97 FZJ80 Gen V 6.2 Swap - Richmond, VA'
Project Wintergreen - '97 FZJ80 Gen V 6.2 Swap - Richmond, VA - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/project-wintergreen-97-fzj80-gen-v-6-2-swap-richmond-va.1339191/post-15496857
 
Last edited:
Link below has the pump I used. Key thing about it is that low pressure inlet ports are on the back, not the side. It’s a tight fit to the frame. I smushed the inlet ports on the pump tejas links to during the install, but maybe with more care or installing pump after putting the engine on its mounts that one could work, but would still be real tight. Not sure of Matt’s experience here. Remote reservoir pump of course would solve issue, but would probably end up having to mount the rez on the passenger side of engine bay and run a kinda long hose as the driver side is super busy with ECU, fusebox, etc. Tho I also installed a hydroboost brake system which takes up a fair amount of space.

On fuel regulators, sky is the limit on what you can spend. I think we both have moderately priced ones off Amazon, but he may correct me.

Post in thread 'Project Wintergreen - '97 FZJ80 Gen V 6.2 Swap - Richmond, VA'
Project Wintergreen - '97 FZJ80 Gen V 6.2 Swap - Richmond, VA - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/project-wintergreen-97-fzj80-gen-v-6-2-swap-richmond-va.1339191/post-15496857
Do you mind if I ask how you connected the fuel line to the fuel regulator?

Did you disconnect the Threaded fitting at the end of the hardline, or cut off the banjo fitting and repurpose?

Thanks
 
Do you mind if I ask how you connected the fuel line to the fuel regulator?

Did you disconnect the Threaded fitting at the end of the hardline, or cut off the banjo fitting and repurpose?

Thanks
Adapter threads to -6an line
 

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