Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I just ran across this on the news feed. While I don't have personal interest in the politics or content beyond the FJ40, I'm curious whether this cruiser could use the patina treatment.

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Bezel is upside down

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Bezel is upside down

Not really, Lol!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Not really, Lol!

Really

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

ReallyView attachment 3791235

Thanks mate for correcting me!
Just measured the late model bezel, there is indeed a (aprox 1cm) difference. Less obvious than in early model bezel though...

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Thanks mate for correcting me!
Just measered the late model bezel, there is indeed a (aprox 1cm) difference. Less obvious than in early model bezel though...

It's the corners that gave it away.

The more rounded corners to the bottom, squared corners on the top.

The cutouts for the headlight adjuster screws line up when set correctly

 

[rainingagain]

Bezel is upside down

There is no escape from the bezel police. They are always watching.

 

[b.crush-a-lot]

---

There is no escape from the bezel police. They are always watching.

Ha!

Hey Mudders- looking for some patina advice. I definitely want to preserve the original paint, looks like a full respray from maybe 20 years ago. I picked up my ‘78 40 a couple years ago from another Mudder. So, in spots I can scrape off the respray with a plastic razor. Other spots are a milky blue if that makes sense. Should I just use CLR and green scotchbrite pad like others have done? Here’s a few pics to show specifically what I’m dealing with…..any advice is appreciated. Thanks-

 

[charliemeyer007]

Why not just leave it alone until you can re-spray it properly. Wax it or something to help protect from rust. A neighbor did mine inside and out with some bondo work, back in 1985. It held up really well until 2010 or so. I'm going to weld in new metal and spray it myself

 

[Grayscale]

Green scotchbrite is too abrasive, imo. The most aggressive that I do for enamel is 1000-grit silicon carbide paper, or 000 or 0000-grade steel wool. The steel wool can be wet, if you load it with baking soda (will not rust when dry), or load it with automotive paste wax, or oil. Metallic oxides expand when the form, so going over the surface with something to remove the rust to the level of the surrounding enamel or sheet metal will allow the rust to shine, and nicely polish with paste wax, or oil, and a rag. I remove stains from my teeth with baking soda, a moist coffee filter, or a dulled hardwood toothpick, it is the right amount of abrasive for stain removal.

 

[b.crush-a-lot]

Why not just leave it alone until you can re-spray it properly. Wax it or something to help protect from rust. A neighbor did mine inside and out with some bondo work, back in 1985. It held up really well until 2010 or so. I'm going to weld in new metal and spray it myself

Thanks for chiming in……a full respray, properly prepped and done the right way is definitely an option. I guess I’d just like to see if I can get to the original paint under the half-ass respray, and then polish that up, embracing any imperfections and patina.

 

[b.crush-a-lot]

Green scotchbrite is too abrasive, imo. The most aggressive that I do for enamel is 1000-grit silicon carbide paper, or 000 or 0000-grade steel wool. The steel wool can be wet, if you load it with baking soda (will not rust when dry), or load it with automotive paste wax, or oil. Metallic oxides expand when the form, so going over the surface with something to remove the rust to the level of the surrounding enamel or sheet metal will allow the rust to shine, and nicely polish with paste wax, or oil, and a rag. I remove stains from my teeth with baking soda, a moist coffee filter, or a dulled hardwood toothpick, it is the right amount of abrasive for stain removal.

Thanks…..I’ll try the steel wool and keep experimenting. I’ll be busy on another project in my garage, then get sidetracked into tinkering with the 40 and messing with the paint. Appreciate the feedback and will report back.

 

[charliemeyer007]

That's the best thing about the USA for now anyway, You Can do it your way in your own time.

 

[Ocho77]

Thanks…..I’ll try the steel wool and keep experimenting. I’ll be busy on another project in my garage, then get sidetracked into tinkering with the 40 and messing with the paint. Appreciate the feedback and will report back.

If the paint is peeling, you can use a pressure washer. It all depends on how well they prepped it before paint. On my 72 that I had, I was able to remove about 75% of the respray with a pressure washer - took a few hours. The rest my wife and I removed with razor blades, then used easy-off oven cleaner to get rid of the primer underneath. Turned out great!

 

[b.crush-a-lot]

If the paint is peeling, you can use a pressure washer. It all depends on how well they prepped it before paint. On my 72 that I had, I was able to remove about 75% of the respray with a pressure washer - took a few hours. The rest my wife and I removed with razor blades, then used easy-off oven cleaner to get rid of the primer underneath. Turned out great!

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Damn!….that looks great! I thought about a pressure washing. Will definitely be trying that when the weather warms up. Awesome your wife helped out with that too.

 

[clrussell]

Thanks…..I’ll try the steel wool and keep experimenting. I’ll be busy on another project in my garage, then get sidetracked into tinkering with the 40 and messing with the paint. Appreciate the feedback and will report back.

If you want to dive into the rabbit hole of paint removal.

I suggest not following the subtle tactics. However mine had 3 layers over the factory paint.

Straight paint thinner, red scotchbrite pad, rags, and elbow grease.

Just needs polished out.

Then finish the other 60% of the rig.

 

[b.crush-a-lot]

If you want to dive into the rabbit hole of paint removal.

I suggest not following the subtle tactics. However mine had 3 layers over the factory paint.

Straight paint thinner, red scotchbrite pad, rags, and elbow grease.

Just needs polished out.

Then finish the other 60% of the rig.

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Nice work……love that final result. Thanks for the pics.

 

[wngrog]

Starting in on another

 

[6f40j9]

If you want to dive into the rabbit hole of paint removal.

I suggest not following the subtle tactics. However mine had 3 layers over the factory paint.

Straight paint thinner, red scotchbrite pad, rags, and elbow grease.

Just needs polished out.

Then finish the other 60% of the rig.

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I know that feeling. I used acetone, purple scotchbrite, lots of elbow grease. I have ~1/3 the hood and an A pillar to go.

 

[KeepCruzin]

Planning to begin the patina-preservation process on my freshly swapped 40.
Is there a consensus on the optimal system for preservation?
My plan is this:
- CLR scrub : Do people recommend a sponge, rag, or something with some texture like scotch-brite?
- Wash and dry.
- Apply Penetrol with a brush and let dry.

Do people recommend Fluid Film or BLO over the Penetrol? Any thoughts would be welcomed.

 

[cruiserdan]

Planning to begin the patina-preservation process on my freshly swapped 40.
Is there a consensus on the optimal system for preservation?
My plan is this:
- CLR scrub : Do people recommend a sponge, rag, or something with some texture like scotch-brite?
- Wash and dry.
- Apply Penetrol with a brush and let dry.

Do people recommend Fluid Film or BLO over the Penetrol? Any thoughts would be welcomed.

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I bet that zips right along...