Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)

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On mine, with a subpar repaint, I popped blisters and rubbed paraffin (candle or canning) wax on the area. Then heated those areas with a light application of propane torch (the wax only melts at 99 deg. F). You can also apply the wax to hot metal. It will leave the metal darker when you have full coverage / liquid temp. It seems to last longer than oil. In my climate, the wax stays solid on all the rust cavities that it was applied into, as far as I can tell, and it picks up much less trail dust than Fluid Film. Paste wax gets worked into the enamel, and that blends seamlessly into the paraffin.

If you want to remove the rust stains from the paint, load baking soda into medium to fine grade steel-wool with some water, or use the baking soda paste with a moist rag. Those little stains make the missing enamel appear like the rig is deteriorating.
 
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I have made some progress on the bed. I got the bondo removed from the exterior. (found that a heat gun and chisel are very effective) I was extremely lucky and found very little rust and holes. Lots of dents but that's fine. I think I'm just going to fix the pinholes with some JB Weld and see how that does. I was able to buy a can of matching spray paint from paintscratch.com I think it probably matches the original, but not super close to the paint I CLR treated and polished on the hood. So, I think I will just go with Rustoleum Canvas White. I don't have a lift, but I do have a tractor so I removed the bed yesterday. This gives me access to clean up the frame and FF and also do the underside of the bed.
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On mine, with a subpar repaint, I popped blisters and rubbed paraffin (candle or canning) wax on the area. Then heat those areas with a light application of propane torch (the wax only melts at 99 deg. F). You can also apply the wax to hot metal. It will leave the metal consistently darker when you have full coverage. It seems to last longer than oil. In my climate, the wax stays solid on all the rust cavities that it was applied into, as far as I can tell, and it picks up much less trail dust than Fluid Film. Paste wax gets worked into the enamel, and that blends seamlessly into the paraffin.

If you want to remove the rust stains from the paint, load baking soda into medium to fine grade steel wool with some water, or use the paste with a moist rag. Those little stains make the missing enamel appear like the rig is deteriorating.
Thanks!
 
To my knowledge, once you Fluid Film, you can't really paint it unless you somehow get all the FF off. I'd suggest doing some type of rust reformer first, then paint if you want, and finally FF. At least on the underside that won't be seen and won't have UV exposure.
 
To my knowledge, once you Fluid Film, you can't really paint it unless you somehow get all the FF off. I'd suggest doing some type of rust reformer first, then paint if you want, and finally FF. At least on the underside that won't be seen and won't have UV exposure.
Yes, thanks! I'm going to use rust converter and then FF.
 
It’s a tough call on that. I for sure would not grind it out.

Will this truck live inside from here on out or be outside?
Back in grade school on my report card for "listening" I usually got "needs improvement"
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I was just taking an awl to the little bubbles and then the awl slid about 1'' under bondo. So I guess now the truck has a pretty good battle wound to show off.
 
Are there drain holes somewhere on these late model doors? Because I'm not seeing them if there are. Maybe under the weatherstrip? I didn't remove that. If there aren't any should I add some? also access holes for a FluidFilm wand?
 
Man this thread is great. I'm about three pages in, and have a '69 Spring Green that is in similar-ish cosmetic shape to the one the OP has/ started thread with. Unfortunately it's been "well I bought the truck - now what" for a minute while I rearrange the rest of my project car life/ family fleet. But this is gonna be so useful - mine's not thrashed enough to be a full repaint candidate AND not nice enough to ever be a full-resto car, so leaving it mostly alone and just preserving the rest will be the way. Gotta get after making it run super nice first (carb and distributor need going through- it runs but mostly pig rich and I'm a carb noob), but this is the kind of thing to do alongside that effort.

Back to reading.
 
Man this thread is great. I'm about three pages in, and have a '69 Spring Green that is in similar-ish cosmetic shape to the one the OP has/ started thread with. Unfortunately it's been "well I bought the truck - now what" for a minute while I rearrange the rest of my project car life/ family fleet. But this is gonna be so useful - mine's not thrashed enough to be a full repaint candidate AND not nice enough to ever be a full-resto car, so leaving it mostly alone and just preserving the rest will be the way. Gotta get after making it run super nice first (carb and distributor need going through- it runs but mostly pig rich and I'm a carb noob), but this is the kind of thing to do alongside that effort.

Back to reading.
Pics??
 
Made a post when I picked it up - it's made exactly zero progress since except that I rebuilt/ cleaned out the carb, lol.


Gotta liquidate another project and buy a kid a car and skim a little off top of that effort to apply to this old girl.
 

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