Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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That sucks. That patina was perfect. It’s almost impossible to fake patina something but what have you got to lose? Mask off an area about 2” into the good blue and respray the red oxide primer. Then spend countless days wet sanding the edges until you get the exposure you want. If that doesn’t work then just respray the whole hood.
I did something similar on an old Watsonian Monza sidecar. It had around 6 different colors on it over the years so I shot the whole thing black then started sanding. The dog never complained.
I did something similar on an old Watsonian Monza sidecar. It had around 6 different colors on it over the years so I shot the whole thing black then started sanding. The dog never complained.
Thanks for the tips- I think I can live with the way it is, and definitely don’t want to get into repainting…anyone know of a way I can protect the bare metal from rust without going full gloss clearcoat? Something that will blend subtly?
- Thread starter
- #964
Poppy's Patina
You should be able to find semi gloss or a flat clear rattle can.
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
Working your magic again, looks great. I see the owner has yokos. I bet I'm not in the minority of folks in the LC community that purchased a set of those because of how awesome they present in your threads. I think you need to collect a check from mr. yoko for the free adds. They look just right on 40's IMO.
No windshield rest blocks?
- Thread starter
- #969
Looks like the old man 86'ed them at some point for some reason.
Eliminate wind resistance, picked up 0.01 MPH!
- Thread starter
- #971
The old guy slopped paint on it in places the patina was showing with plans to have it painted one day that never happened.
I'm not going to try to remove it.
405
GOLD Star
OG Capri blue paint on the '72 I would like to get looking better.
Thinking of going straight to buffing with a DA orbital with orange pad with the Griots complete compound and then finish with the griots best of show. Looks like someone did a CLR scrub w/ a scotch brite pad or something similar on the paint as there are a lot of fine scratches I would hope to remove.
To the Patina Pros ..Look like a good candidate to go straight to buffing?
May experiment with CLR scrub on the front bumper.
Thinking of going straight to buffing with a DA orbital with orange pad with the Griots complete compound and then finish with the griots best of show. Looks like someone did a CLR scrub w/ a scotch brite pad or something similar on the paint as there are a lot of fine scratches I would hope to remove.
To the Patina Pros ..Look like a good candidate to go straight to buffing?
May experiment with CLR scrub on the front bumper.
405
GOLD Star
Yes, paint feels pretty smooth in most places. No oxidation I can see in person either. Will report back soon when I get a chance to do some work on it.
Should I skip the CLR scrub and go directly to fluid film or just use my orbital on the paint without clear to see how that comes out?
So, paint the hood and polish the rest?
- Thread starter
- #978
That's what I did on my blue 60.
405
GOLD Star
Patina preservation is underway!
I have just done the step with the orange pad and haven't applied any wax yet. I love this old paint, it's amazing what you can get out of it with a little effort. The reflections are crazy to see. Trying to remove all I can like badges, lights, and trim.
Now a question to the group, this is a well preserved example of a FST 40. I wasn't expecting the paint to clean up this well. Do I replace all the removable parts like the hood hooks, badges, lights with new OEM to freshen up? Or put the worn originals back on? I am 50/50 here. The originals are nice (and will be kept regardless). But I also like the pop of some fresh new parts on a polished up patina body.
Hood pad removed, original Capri Blue paint hiding.
Hood before. Hooks and pads removed. No polishing done yet.
2 passes with the Griots compound and orange pad on the fender, apron, hood, bezel, and below the soft door. Only pieces not done in this photo yet are the windshield surround and soft door pillars.
Left - B pillar polished, Right - soft door pillar untouched.
Cleaning up nice! Had to test fit a new OEM badge I had on the shelf. Very happy with the results so far.
I have just done the step with the orange pad and haven't applied any wax yet. I love this old paint, it's amazing what you can get out of it with a little effort. The reflections are crazy to see. Trying to remove all I can like badges, lights, and trim.
Now a question to the group, this is a well preserved example of a FST 40. I wasn't expecting the paint to clean up this well. Do I replace all the removable parts like the hood hooks, badges, lights with new OEM to freshen up? Or put the worn originals back on? I am 50/50 here. The originals are nice (and will be kept regardless). But I also like the pop of some fresh new parts on a polished up patina body.
Hood pad removed, original Capri Blue paint hiding.
Hood before. Hooks and pads removed. No polishing done yet.
2 passes with the Griots compound and orange pad on the fender, apron, hood, bezel, and below the soft door. Only pieces not done in this photo yet are the windshield surround and soft door pillars.
Left - B pillar polished, Right - soft door pillar untouched.
Cleaning up nice! Had to test fit a new OEM badge I had on the shelf. Very happy with the results so far.
