Stuck Odometer Rebuild How-To Video

[JVZii]

I have been wanting to do a video of an odometer rebuild for quite a while. I recently fixed a few and decided to give away all my secrets .

This is kind of a long video but I think there is some good information throughout the video. If you want to bypass all of my witty dialogue and disassembly tips you can fast forward to about the 16:30 minute mark where I begin the reassembly.

If this helps you, if it does, drop a pic of the completed odometer on this thread.

Jack

 

[charliemeyer007]

Nice vid. $OR has nothing on your hand remover spoons. I actually have my dad's watch makers hand remover tools.

 

[Engineer8000]

I've been enjoying your 10mm garage videos, I assume that is you with the 79 freeborn red truck.

 

[JVZii]

Yes that is mine. Thanks for watching. The videos are fun to do andi have gotten a ton of work done that I likely would have put off few several more years. For anyone who hasn't seen them. Here is a link to the series.



Thanks again
Jack

 

[82Blu]

SUCH A GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for doing this... You listed the years right up to 8/81... i have a 10/81, so my ODO is a little different. no C-clips ... I'm very nervous to pull off the brass bushing, fearing it may not go back on and hold the cluster tight. Any recommendations? i guess i could use some Locktite if the brass bushing doesn't hold tight after reassembly. I've been soaking in alcohol, but seeing how crusty it gets, i think i'll need to disassemble fully.

 

[JVZii]

SUCH A GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for doing this... You listed the years right up to 8/81... i have a 10/81, so my ODO is a little different. no C-clips ... I'm very nervous to pull off the brass bushing, fearing it may not go back on and hold the cluster tight. Any recommendations? i guess i could use some Locktite if the brass bushing doesn't hold tight after reassembly. I've been soaking in alcohol, but seeing how crusty it gets, i think i'll need to disassemble fully.
View attachment 4096430

Sorry I just saw this. You need to start disassembly from the other side. Don't move the brass bushing holding the 10ths wheel. In your case this is the register for where to start the wheels.

If there is a guard covering the E clip on the 100000 wheel I think you need to bend it out of the way to get the odometer apart.

The idea of assembly is the same just backwards. I didn't do a video on these later model odometers as there are so few of them.

I am doing some of this from memory so send some pics and questions if you are not sure.

Thanks for watching the videos. Make sure to like and subscribe and tell all your friends the same.

 

[82Blu]

Sorry I just saw this. You need to start disassembly from the other side. Don't move the brass bushing holding the 10ths wheel. In your case this is the register for where to start the wheels.

If there is a guard covering the E clip on the 100000 wheel I think you need to bend it out of the way to get the odometer apart.

The idea of assembly is the same just backwards. I didn't do a video on these later model odometers as there are so few of them.

I am doing some of this from memory so send some pics and questions if you are not sure.

Thanks for watching the videos. Make sure to like and subscribe and tell all your friends the same.

Oh… my… God! You’re right! I thought it was another solid bushing on both sides until you said that!!!! My eyes suck so had to use my mag app on my phone to see it. Here it is… on the opposite side!

 

[JVZii]

Oh… my… God! You’re right! I thought it was another solid bushing on both sides until you said that!!!! My eyes suck so had to use my mag app on my phone to see it. Here it is… on the opposite side!
View attachment 4096823

Awesome, Yes, I think that cupped washer ( I guess you would call it a washer) is a generalized way that Toyota tried to keep people from messing with the mileage. I have always needed to mangle that washer to get that clip off. From there you can disassemble the odometer.

A word of advice for you and anyone that has an US spec 8/80+ FJ40. Your Land Cruiser has a real VIN that can be tracked with CarFax. So don't just set the mileage back to 000000. I did this for someone many years ago and when they sold it CarFax threw a red flag. Make sure to advance the mileage to be greater than it currently is.

Jack

 

[82Blu]

Awesome, Yes, I think that cupped washer ( I guess you would call it a washer) is a generalized way that Toyota tried to keep people from messing with the mileage. I have always needed to mangle that washer to get that clip off. From there you can disassemble the odometer.

A word of advice for you and anyone that has an US spec 8/80+ FJ40. Your Land Cruiser has a real VIN that can be tracked with CarFax. So don't just set the mileage back to 000000. I did this for someone many years ago and when they sold it CarFax threw a red flag. Make sure to advance the mileage to be greater than it currently is.

Jack

100% Jack! I was at or around 105,399. At this point, that mileage is becoming a badge of honor vs a negative for resale. I’ll be going there as a starting point. Not that I ever plan to sell this thing!

 

[82Blu]

Hi Jack, I'm back... lol
I got the c-clip removed, tore it all apart, cleaned, lubed and put back together, but may have noticed another difference in the newer model odo... Seems like my tiny gears do not have the 'long tooth' like you show in the video. Any thoughts or recommendations on that? got it all put back in but it doesn't seem to be successfully rolling over the 1's digit and eventually locked up... you mention in the vid that if you don't get those gears aligned... this will happen.

I may tear it all down again and just go to the 000000s like you originally recommended but would like to set it to the actual mileage once i get my tongue sticking out just right to make this work .

 

[JVZii]

There should be a full tooth and a half tooth on the white gears. Send a pic if you are not sure.

You will need to do everything in reverse though. You can start at 0000000 and then at the end move to 110,000. Once you get the first few wheels on, test it like I did in the video. It should rollover.

Good luck and if you get stuck pm me, you can put it all in a bag and send it to me.

 

[82Blu]

There should be a full tooth and a half tooth on the white gears. Send a pic if you are not sure.

You will need to do everything in reverse though. You can start at 0000000 and then at the end move to 110,000. Once you get the first few wheels on, test it like I did in the video. It should rollover.

Good luck and if you get stuck pm me, you can put it all in a bag and send it to me.

That did it Jack! A combo of getting one of the taller gears (every other one is tall) to align with the “2,” removing the mangled “cup washer” (it was putting a lot of pressure on the assembly, prob from mangling it) and simplifying my mileage reading to mostly zeros (105000 is close enough) did it! Thank you for the coaching! I was minutes away from bagging it and sending it but am feeling accomplished that I finally got it working!

Here’s the photo of the little gears on a >8/81 model for anyone else trying this. You’ll see every other tooth is long and they do need to align just like Jack said in his video on older models…

 

[JVZii]

That did it Jack! A combo of getting one of the taller gears (every other one is tall) to align with the “2,” removing the mangled “cup washer” (it was putting a lot of pressure on the assembly, prob from mangling it) and simplifying my mileage reading to mostly zeros (105000 is close enough) did it! Thank you for the coaching! I was minutes away from bagging it and sending it but am feeling accomplished that I finally got it working!

Here’s the photo of the little gears on a >8/81 model for anyone else trying this. You’ll see every other tooth is long and they do need to align just like Jack said in his video on older models…

View attachment 4098809

Hey awesome, thanks for the feedback. I like it when someone makes me sound smart