New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

90% of the time, do you use your big sockets on:

  • Big nuts

    Votes: 4 80.0%

  • Installing and removing seals and bearings

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

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77mustard40 said:
What’s the fun of having a 40 without the remnants of a large cardboard box underneath it?
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Oh, I am sure there will be drips. As I was working under her reinstalling the rear prop shaft, I noticed the rear diff had a small leak. It said, "pay attention to me!" All in good time.

Today I'll reinstall the passenger seat and button up a few other items. Plus a quick tune.

Next up is brake lines, the last of the old rubber.

Then just drive it. I have other things I'd like to do, but it'll be nice to enjoy the ride for a while.

While at HD a guy knocked on my window and gushed over her. He had rebuilt a Mustang in the past and we chatted about wrenching and bashed knuckles for a bit. That is my favorite part of my truck. It brings out nostalgia in folks. I got a thumbs up from a 20ish motorcyclist, so you don't have to be old to appreciate the beauty.
 
MatthewMcD said:
Then just drive it. I have other things I'd like to do, but it'll be nice to enjoy the ride for a while.
Click to expand...

Textify…!!!^^^^🍺👈🏻🫡

My mandatory Medicare birthday is within striking distance. That’s made my “smash the easy button” decisions a whole lot easier to make when it comes to major muscle movements on the Mule…
 
Crossed the 200-mile mark today. Took my boy up to @aljollano to see his expanded shop and meet up with other Toyota fans.
20250419_142816716_iOS-2.jpg
20250419_155525938_iOS-2.jpg
20250419_151524193_iOS.jpg
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I took the long way home and decided to try monochrome.

20250419_165511467_iOS-2.jpg


As these first 500 miles are about shaking out the issues, AJ helped me figure out that I have an exhaust manifold leak. So I will take a look at that tomorrow. I aslo discovered (I think) that my heater valve is not fully closing. So the interior got pretty hot. The transmission tunnel cover is warm, and the driver's side is too, which I attribute to the placement of the muffler under the drivers seat rather than in the rear. (I plan to rectify that after I get the right intake and exhaust manifold.)

As for the heater valve, it's just this one valve, right? And when it's open it sends hot coolant to both the front and rear heaters. So if the valve is stuck open both heaters should be hot...right? Since I was driving it was hard to troubleshoot, but I'll test all this tomorrow.

20250419_230532898_iOS.jpg
 
MatthewMcD said:
As for the heater valve, it's just this one valve, right? And when it's open it sends hot coolant to both the front and rear heaters. So if the valve is stuck open both heaters should be hot...right?
Click to expand...
Right, right.
 
Big pair of hemostats will block the flow of coolant if the valve is leaky. They will also clamp off the vacuum booster if it leaks.
 
I have two valves, one that is operated via the interior knob and one gate valve type under the hood for seasonal shutdown. Later model 40 but yours is a blend to be sure.
 
Also, bummed I missed AJ’s, had a young gun no show/show up 2 hours late due to being too hungover. Had to go in and learn him…
 
Matt I have a valve on the riser coming off the head which is super handy when summer shows up in our part of the world, not sure what vintage 2F but I will get you a pic. The firewall valve never seems to want to close fully…
 
77mustard40 said:
Matt I have a valve on the riser coming off the head which is super handy when summer shows up in our part of the world, not sure what vintage 2F but I will get you a pic. The firewall valve never seems to want to close fully…
Click to expand...
This is what I have
 
I noticed my 75's heater tubes are a little warm, but never as hot a as when the valve on the firewall is open.
 
If you think that tunnel feels warm, try driving around without it! @red66toy knows what I mean!

These things are hot. Do you have a skid plate and is the exhaust under or above it? That makes a difference, along with heater valve as noted: in your pic the heater valve is definitely open. I believe your 75 should have the exhaust mounted basically under the driver seat floor, not in the rear like the later ones. Best solutions are to turn the heater valve off (mine is at the head), roll the windows down, open the cowl vent and kick open the kick panel AC vents. If that’s not enough cooling, take the top off.
 
MatthewMcD said:
Crossed the 200-mile mark today. Took my boy up to @aljollano to see his expanded shop and meet up with other Toyota fans.
View attachment 3888140View attachment 3888143View attachment 3888142View attachment 3888141

I took the long way home and decided to try monochrome.

View attachment 3888146

As these first 500 miles are about shaking out the issues, AJ helped me figure out that I have an exhaust manifold leak. So I will take a look at that tomorrow. I aslo discovered (I think) that my heater valve is not fully closing. So the interior got pretty hot. The transmission tunnel cover is warm, and the driver's side is too, which I attribute to the placement of the muffler under the drivers seat rather than in the rear. (I plan to rectify that after I get the right intake and exhaust manifold.)

As for the heater valve, it's just this one valve, right? And when it's open it sends hot coolant to both the front and rear heaters. So if the valve is stuck open both heaters should be hot...right? Since I was driving it was hard to troubleshoot, but I'll test all this tomorrow.

View attachment 3888152
Click to expand...
I put this heater valve on. It has a bypass which keeps flow to the back of the head.
 
mrboatman said:
I put this heater valve on. It has a bypass which keeps flow to the back of the head.
Click to expand...
Does the 2F need a heater hose bypass to provide adequate flow to the rear of the head? I'm thinkin' "No". Do the South American 40s have some kind of bypass hose? Are the valves supposed to close off all coolant flow out the back of the head and the engine designers have accounted for this or is Toyota counting on leaky valves to keep the head cool?
I'm betting that the head does not need any heater water flow. Hoping so anyway. I went old school when replacing the rusted-out valve on the firewall of my Pig, the older rigs have a simple valve that you turn twice a year as needed. that gizmo you linked looks just way too complicated and fragile for a LandCruiser

20240527_180000.jpg
 
77mustard40 said:
Matt I have a valve on the riser coming off the head which is super handy when summer shows up in our part of the world, not sure what vintage 2F but I will get you a pic. The firewall valve never seems to want to close fully…
Click to expand...
I have the valve, but I dare mess with it as it appears to be happy in its current open position. (Photo to come later as Camper is still sleeping off the excitement of yesterday...on me.)

I'll see if I can get the heater valve to move through a full range. I am still running distilled water from the swap specifically for this circumstance. So no biggie draining a little to make the repair.
 
Skreddy said:
If you think that tunnel feels warm, try driving around without it! @red66toy knows what I mean!

These things are hot. Do you have a skid plate and is the exhaust under or above it? That makes a difference, along with heater valve as noted: in your pic the heater valve is definitely open. I believe your 75 should have the exhaust mounted basically under the driver seat floor, not in the rear like the later ones. Best solutions are to turn the heater valve off (mine is at the head), roll the windows down, open the cowl vent and kick open the kick panel AC vents. If that’s not enough cooling, take the top off.
Click to expand...
:)

Exhaust is where you said. Under the driver's seat above the skid plate. I do have a heat shield in the rear and rusted out hangers for, what appears to be, dual exhaust. (I took off the OEM hangers since they were not being used.) AJ gave me the name of an exhaust guy he uses for '40s, I'll discuss that after I get the proper manifold installed.

Yesterday I was running windows down, kick vents open. It was when I opened "Pull Fresh" that I noticed the heated air. So, I'll have another look at that valve. (The PO deleted the cowl vent, but left the drains... :( )

In other good news...it rained here yesterday on our way home and the windshield wipers worked great! They even stowed correctly! I haven't needed them since I rebuilt the motor.
 
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