New dissent offroad no cut rear bumper! (2 Viewers)

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Design question: seeing how many fasteners are present, wouldn't fastener loosening be a problem w. Long term exposure to washboards and related vibration?

I have zeroed in on this product for my rig but concerned about it shaking apart. Some of my thought on this:
a) once installed and adjusted correctly, mark configuration, take apart, install industrial grade double sided tape between all mated surfaces, the reassemble.

b) tack weld all mating pieces together after install.

With any method, locktite all fasteners w. Semi-permanent stuff (takes heat to break the thread bond).

In aerospace, design practice dictates safety wiring all nuts/bolts in high vibration environments.

Am I missing something?
Pretty sure you're overthinking things.
 
Design question: seeing how many fasteners are present, wouldn't fastener loosening be a problem w. Long term exposure to washboards and related vibration?

I have zeroed in on this product for my rig but concerned about it shaking apart. Some of my thought on this:
a) once installed and adjusted correctly, mark configuration, take apart, install industrial grade double sided tape between all mated surfaces, the reassemble.

b) tack weld all mating pieces together after install.

With any method, locktite all fasteners w. Semi-permanent stuff (takes heat to break the thread bond).

In aerospace, design practice dictates safety wiring all nuts/bolts in high vibration environments.

Am I missing something?
Im a aircraft maintainer (military 2a676), and owner of this bumper as well.
I just torqued all my bolts extra tight (without damaging the threads) and i feel that it shouldnt break loose... Maybe hitting the bolts with a torque wrench every 2-5 years would ease the rattle-loose concerns.
At the end of the day the hardware fitting the bumper is very much adequate for the weight it is carrying.
Safety wiring the bolts by drilling out wire loops and going to a 2-3 point tightening connection seems too excessive to be worth it. If locktite is used... Id choose the blue tacky stuff. Better yet- if truly concerned with bolt backout... Paint a mark (match-marks) on the nut/bolts to be able to visibly see if there is any deflection or loosening over time.
I feel the only thing that would take this bumper out would also total my truck and am happy/secure feeling in having it mounted with no plans or worries of anything coming apart thru even extreme usage.
 
A few pieces are stainless, but the vast majority is Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Chromate.

FWIW, I used Green (penetrating) locktite on everything.
 
Give him a call, leave a message. Thats usually the best way to get a hold of him.
 
Has anyone installed their hi lift mount on the tire carrier? I still haven't and I need to do that this week. A pic/explanation of where it's installed would probably save me some time when I go to figure it out, if anyone has one!
Here is mine installed but not dialed in as I do not have the lift yet.

View attachment 2152881

View attachment 2152882

Did mine the way, but end out getting a hi lift jack mount and bolted it on the acc box.

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So as I mentioned in another thread I had removed the bumper for a new powder coat job ($700 if anyone asks) and since I had to rush my previous install for a trip I need to do a couple of things for the first time. The first being the install of the two provided LED lights. Did you guys hook them into your reverse light wiring or a separate switch? I was considering running them up to my Switch Pro since having the lights on when hooking a trailer at night sounds like a winner.

Also since the license plate needs relocating and new wiring run where were you all tapping into? I’m going to try these out first simply because they aren’t as obnoxious as some of the bracket lighting. Thanks.

5530C79E-FDF9-4A25-A147-29D0A820C3C4.jpeg
 
Those bolt-lights look cool, I have something similar on my vintage camper. Keep in mind though, you'll need to have a disconnect in the wire, to fish it through the bolt hold in the license plate. Or cut a small notch on your plate at the bolt holes.
 
Those bolt-lights look cool, I have something similar on my vintage camper. Keep in mind though, you'll need to have a disconnect in the wire, to fish it through the bolt hold in the license plate. Or cut a small notch on your plate at the bolt holes.

I think I am following what you are saying, I drilled out the plate and the bracket and they fit in nicely. I’ll post a pic after I find where to pick up the power.
 

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