Victory 4x4 is a bolt on bumper and stout.
No-Cut Modifications (Bumpers, Roof Rack, Skids, Sliders) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter goodwin1980
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Same story, I’ve only recently decided that it’s all got to go. I’m tired of moving it around and it’s taking up valuable space. If mine goes back to stock that will be someone else’s problem.
I believe that some drilling, grinding, or cutting will be necessary with almost any aftermarket install.
That in itself does not mean you can't go back to stock. So in my opinion the better question wound be "Which [bumper] (or other part) will allow me to go back to stock?"
Example: I have an Ironman front bumper on my 06 LX. Did I have to grind the goofy frame rail end cap tab thingies as slightly? Yes. Did I have to use a big hammer? Yes. Tolerances are slightly different with each vehicle and each bumper. I always expect some amount of modification or fabrication. Could I go back to stock if I wanted to? Absolutely! I don't believe I modified anything that would prohibit that. Someone mentioned earlier that drilling holes wouldn't eliminate the possibility of returning to stock and I agree with that was well.
So in the end I'm guessing you have quite a few options as well as a few that you should avoid.
Hope to see pics of the the build.
That in itself does not mean you can't go back to stock. So in my opinion the better question wound be "Which [bumper] (or other part) will allow me to go back to stock?"
Example: I have an Ironman front bumper on my 06 LX. Did I have to grind the goofy frame rail end cap tab thingies as slightly? Yes. Did I have to use a big hammer? Yes. Tolerances are slightly different with each vehicle and each bumper. I always expect some amount of modification or fabrication. Could I go back to stock if I wanted to? Absolutely! I don't believe I modified anything that would prohibit that. Someone mentioned earlier that drilling holes wouldn't eliminate the possibility of returning to stock and I agree with that was well.
So in the end I'm guessing you have quite a few options as well as a few that you should avoid.
Hope to see pics of the the build.
Exactly. I’m reading this thread and scratching my head. Let’s see a show of hands who did a full build and went back to stock. Like wtf?
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks. Your comment is not productive.
Let me ask you this. What is the point of going back to stock? Why is that even a thought?
I could see doing this in the event that you thought you would be selling eventually, but wanted to keep all of your modded equipment for your next purchase. But it will eat up some garage space quick having all of the stock bits lying about. My garage is tiny. So stock bits get donated or pitched for me.
- Thread starter
- #28
My LC100 is a 2005, one owner (I’m the second), with 70K miles, all maintenance records, and has never lived in the rust belt. Needless to say, it is a near time capsule. Not perfect, but close. I want to build it out in the least invasive fashion so down the road (5-10 years) I can return it to its stock self. I may do this simply because I want to go back to the look of a stock 100 (which I really like) or because it will be easier to sell, if necessary. Modified 100s are not as strong in the market as a stock 100s. My plans may change but I want the option.
- Thread starter
- #29
Going back to the purpose of the thread - I am currently looking at the TJM T13 Outback front bumper, either a Dissent V3 or ARB rear bumper, Gamiviti+++ roof rack, Slee sliders, and Dissent skids. I don’t think any of these mods would require cutting/grinding. Someone said this earlier and I agree, the TJM/ARB combo provides more of an OG look particularly with the sliders and roof rack (everything tubular). The issue I see is the ARB rear is not as functional as the Dissent.
As another option, Slee rear doesn’t require trimming or modification to the vehicle.
I really want to say that the White Knuckle sliders are straight bolt on with no drilling. I do not own them but they seem to be popular with serious enthusiasts. Good luck finding all the products you want. God bless America!
Totally understand what you are going for. I will say one solid option is going for the options that require minimal cutting and modifications. There is a high likelihood you won't go back to stock, but should you want to you can always pay someone (if outside of your skillset) to weld back a few small items to return to stock. Front bumper- keep the small piece you cut off and worst case after a little welding, grinding and painting, you'd be back to stock and good to go. I would personally go that direction if it opened things up to the exact parts you wanted.
the amount of work in building something up and then tearing it down is a lot. Best wishes to you. But buying an unmolested vehicle after the fact is much easier.
I’d like to point out that almost all of these “cut and grind” modifications are completely reversible with a welder. Even if you don’t have the skill, you’d only be looking at minimum time at almost any garage/machine shop. I’d pick out the parts you like most for their function and value to maximize your enjoyment of the truck. If you change your mind later, which you’re less likely to do if you pick out the best choices up front, you’re only $150 in welding away from going back to original.
I can verify this as have these on my rig.
Did you go with a Victory front bumper?
I'm considering one of these. Have any pics or thoughts/impressions of the bumper and install? How was it to work with Victory?
- Thread starter
- #37
I have not move forward yet. Will likely go with a TJM T13, Slee rear, Slee sliders, Dissent skids, and Gamiviti roof rack.
Little different for me. The lead engineer on these bumpers is a friend, so I actually have 1 of 2 prototypes made.
That said, the install is super easy with an extra set of hands. Once you have everything removed, putting it on is insanely quick. There are 2 nut tabs you put in to the top holes on the horizontal frame above the frame horn and bolt into the frame horns, done.
I did trim my cover for my windshield washer tank, though more preference than required. The approach angle is nice and wide open. I run a 305/55/20 so I can see wider on the tire anyway.
All in all though, it’s a fantastic bumper and has been solid. I have had a couple bumps off of trees that were a bit heavy and had no denting, shifting, or chipping of the powder coat.
From what I recall the Dissent front required just a tiny cut to remove the flimsy little brackets that hold the skin or trim. It would be very easy to cut carefully and re-attach later with 30 seconds of weld from a pro. I am very much on board with "no drilling/cutting" where possible. We built our ADGU company around that concept with our drawers. Never any drilling or cutting. That said, I would not let the Dissent process stop you form their front bumper. It's an awesome product that's as good as "bolt-on" in my book.
This is true, at least for the ARB. The subframe bolts right up and then the bumper attaches to it.
I saw you also mentioned Gamiviti , both great options in my biased opinion.
And I can understand the concept of possibly going back to stock. I keep adding more and more weight on my rig and then I see a stock rig drive by and I think, damn, I like that lol. It's really just a matter of preference and what type of driving you do. I need all of the goodies on my truck to allow for more time in remote areas without being left stranded.
Edit** Another good reason, I've already had to pull my rear bumper once to repaint because of rust and my ARB is also starting to rust. Just big hunk of heavy metal so if it doesn't serve a purpose I can understand wanting to go back to stock.
Bump it off road rear bumper. Another no mod addition unless you go with high clearance option
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