Need advice on removing thermostat housing

[65swb45]

@Pin_Head suggested many years ago that this is a really good opportunity to weld the head of another bolt to the stub. Chances are the heat of the weld will be sufficient to get the stub out with little additional effort.

 

[kevos37]

I like welding a nut that fits around the broken bolt. Tap on the newly welded nut a few times while cooling. Don't try to remove it while it's hot. Tightening and loosening is an affective way to break them free. Good luck.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

While Heating Up the Broken stud / Bolt is the idea , then rotating it a bit back and forth to loosen up the Scale , Borate &

Ethylene Glycol related corrosion , Take care NOT to heat up the cast iron cylinder head as little as possible . Just focus any Heat

on the broken bolt / remaining stud itself

 

[Pin_Head]

Definitely, welding a nut on to the stub will do the trick if the remains of the bolt are stuck in cast iron or steel. As every welder knows, just heating steel to red hot causes it to shrinkwhen it cools, which makes it easier to get out. With the broken bolt stuck in aluminum it is different, because the temperature needed to shrink the steel will melt the aluminum. Instead rapidly weld a nut on to the remains of the bolt and let it cool. Then rapidly heat the aluminum so it expands quickly and try to turn the bolt out while it is still hot. This may not work and you will end up drilling it out and helicoiling the hole.

 

[Racer65]

How to get the broken bolts out:
Broken Thermostat Housing Bolt. Now What?

Hint: There is no better way!

 

[sproggy]

oh man I'm not touching my thermostat housing.... Ancient thermostat and housing ain't broke yet but I can pretty much guarantee if I play around with it it WILL be broke.

 

[3_puppies]

surprised nobody has said to use anti-seize when threading the 2 halves back together.

 

[ginmtb]

How to get the broken bolts out:
Broken Thermostat Housing Bolt. Now What?

Hint: There is no better way!

Which sheared off bolt did we extract this way @Racer65?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I coated My Housing to Housing Bolt Threads with Liquid Sealer FIPG 00295-00103

this should hopefully seal out any Dis-Similar Metal Corrosion & Be serviceable at the same time in the future

 

[1969FJ]

surprised nobody has said to use anti-seize when threading the 2 halves back together.

I always use anti-seize when assembling anything. Even body bolts.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have a unique Question for everybody to Input on :



Is loch-tite , specifically Blue Serviceable type considered or has a side benefit of being Anti-Sieze as well / Also if used Liberally ?

 

[Steamer]

I always use anti-seize when assembling anything. Even body bolts.

I'm also a big fan of anti-seize. I simply wont't put a threaded fastener together without it. And, it goes on just about every gasket I install too. No sealant for me. I just hate taking something apart that was put together with sealant and then have to scrape that junk off.
If my t-stat housing hasn't been off and apart in a few years for some necessary reason, I'll just take it off and re-coat with anti-seize. I went through what you're doing once when I got my rig and I ain't going through that again.

 

[Fj moneypit]

oh man I'm not touching my thermostat housing.... Ancient thermostat and housing ain't broke yet but I can pretty much guarantee if I play around with it it WILL be broke.

Lol

I’m still procrastinating on the bolt weld. I’ll pull more stuff off then tackle it

 

[Steamer]

oh man I'm not touching my thermostat housing.... Ancient thermostat and housing ain't broke yet but I can pretty much guarantee if I play around with it it WILL be broke.

How bout every now and then hitting your bolts and housing with some penetrating oil. Then when that removal day comes (and it will) you'll be a little bit ahead of the game. Couldn't hurt anyway.

 

[brian]

surprised nobody has said to use anti-seize when threading the 2 halves back together.

I thought that was a given.

 

[middlecalf]

I have a unique Question for everybody to Input on :



Is loch-tite , specifically Blue Serviceable type considered or has a side benefit of being Anti-Sieze as well / Also if used Liberally ?

I think this would be a great discussion. Maybe a new thread?

 

[rstoddard]

While Heating Up the Broken stud / Bolt is the idea , then rotating it a bit back and forth to loosen up the Scale , Borate &

Ethylene Glycol related corrosion , Take care NOT to heat up the cast iron cylinder head as little as possible . Just focus any Heat

on the broken bolt / remaining stud itself

Matt, I broke a Tap in one of the Thermostat housing bolt holes. I’m in a pickle. I was going to try to drill it out with a diamond drill bit. It heating that area a bad idea?

Will there be enough meat in that hole if I have to re-tap to a 12mm?

Thanks!!! Ron

 

[emac]

Matt, I broke a Tap in one of the Thermostat housing bolt holes. I’m in a pickle. I was going to try to drill it out with a diamond drill bit. It heating that area a bad idea?

Will there be enough meat in that hole if I have to re-tap to a 12mm?

Thanks!!! Ron

May need to use a time sert/heliocoil once you extract the tap. Any chance you could weld something to the end of the tp?

 

[kudzugypsy]

I’ve been using Loctite marine grade anti-seize recently, per recommendation- it ain’t cheap but hopefully bypasses these episodes
Amazon product ASIN B00B74AB5C

 

[Spike Strip]

Matt, I broke a Tap in one of the Thermostat housing bolt holes. I’m in a pickle. I was going to try to drill it out with a diamond drill bit. It heating that area a bad idea?

Will there be enough meat in that hole if I have to re-tap to a 12mm?

Thanks!!! Ron

Amazon product ASIN B08JB5FPBY