My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case (2 Viewers)

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Great video and I'll be doing this soon too.

Anyone have a run down on the various capacities of the diffs/tranxfer case?
Check section 6 of the owner's manual. Front diff, 1.5 qt...rear diff, 4 qt...trans case, 2 qt. Get 8 quarts.

I've been using a hand operated pump that screws into a gallon jug...great for arm strength but takes forever. I found this 1745 PowerFill Pro 2 Gallon Tank takes around 2 minutes to fill the front diff and trans case. You'll need a locking schrader valve for the air hose. I bought a 100 psi gage for mine (oem is 30 psi) and run it at 50 psi based on advice from a Motive Products engineer. It's definitely usable on the rear diff, but even faster to stick a piece of tubing over the plastic bottle nozzle and squeeze it in.

Sealing washers are replaced with new. I updated the drain plugs to (iirc) Tundra parts with longer magnets. Minor upgrade but cheap. Drain plugs have their own thread Transfer case drainplug musings .

Allow time to remove the umpteen heat shields around the trans case. And while you're "in there" may as well lube the driveshafts.;)
 
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Check section 6 of the owner's manual. Front diff, 1.5 qt...rear diff, 4 qt...trans case, 2 qt. Get 7 quarts.



Allow time to remove the umpteen heat shields around the trans case. And while you're "in there" may as well lube the driveshafts.;)

You may want to double check your math.....and buy 8 quarts! :)

What's interesting is the "Toyota Quick Service Reference Guide" states the following:
Front Drive Shaft: 1.95 quarts
Rear Drive Shaft: 4.2 quarts
Transfer Case: 1.5 quarts

Regardless, fill them until you are just about level with the plug. I did get just under 2 quarts in my transfer case.

And I totally agree - lube those drive shafts after you've removed all your skids and that cage around the transfer case.....It isn't going to get any more accessible than that!
 

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You may want to double check your math.....and buy 8 quarts! :)

What's interesting is the "Toyota Quick Service Reference Guide" states the following:
Front Drive Shaft: 1.95 quarts
Rear Drive Shaft: 4.2 quarts
Transfer Case: 1.5 quarts

Regardless, fill them until you are just about level with the plug. I did get just under 2 quarts in my transfer case.

And I totally agree - lube those drive shafts after you've removed all your skids and that cage around the transfer case.....It isn't going to get any more accessible than that!
Simple math apparently needs a calculator early in the morning. :doh: :doh:

I add oil until I see a good dribble out of the fill hole. The trans case cage disassembly has some tight areas. Laying the sheet metal out in the order of removal will save time when you put it all back together. U-joint or u-joint sockets help a bunch, as do small fingers. ;)

Steve
 
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For what it is worth, I bought one of these, and it made changing the front diff and transfer case a breeze. The rear diff was easier without it as it is easy to just squeeze in the oil from the bottle as there is plenty of clearance with the spare removed.

Amazon.com: Lumax LX-1185 Black 18 oz. Suction Gun with 12" Vinyl Hose: Automotive

It holds a little more than half a quart, so it does require some refilling, but it pushes 18 ounces into the diff/transfer case in about 5 seconds. Way easier than the million pumps from a cheapo hand pump.

I also used this to suck the old oil out of my lawn mower. Worked awesome. Definitely worth $13.
pump.jpg
 
About to tackle this. Can anyone share the part numbers for the crush washers that need to be changed out? I didn't see it in the YT video, but haven't done much googling yet.

RE: the transfer case, IIRC there was a change to the oil recommendation, or perhaps just for the later models, that seems to reduce the frequency of getting the dash panel X-mas tree lights. Was it from 75/90 to straight 75? I'll try to read through the 112 post thesis seminar on xfer case oils. (-;
 
Nevermind. Saw the move to 75W, and someone posted a link to a package that contained the necessary washers/gaskets/seal.
 
I found your videos on YouTube a couple years ago. Thanks for creating and posting. They were very helpful.
 
Thank you!
 
Thanks for the video. Just did rear diff fluid yesterday, front and transfer case today hopefully. My LX rear diff took almost 4.5 US quarts or so. Service Manual PDF I have states this too. 2011 LX. I saw your video was just a hair under 4qt. which was completely filled on yours.

fr diff.JPG
 
Nevermind. Saw the move to 75W, and someone posted a link to a package that contained the necessary washers/gaskets/seal.
I figure if you're in that far, it makes sense to replace the crush washers

12157-10010 x3
90430-24003 x1
90430-A0003 x2

I bought mine on Amazon as a package.
 
I figure if you're in that far, it makes sense to replace the crush washers

12157-10010 x3
90430-24003 x1
90430-A0003 x2

I bought mine on Amazon as a package.

Good call.
They are cheap enough I buy extras to have sitting around in case I need to get in there for some reason. Or forget to buy ahead of the next fluid change.
 
FWIW, I am still getting the 'three light' error (Check VSC, flashing 4Lo, and check engine light, IIRC) that randomly appears and then randomly disappears. :meh:
4 Low, center diff lock (and ATRAC) worked flawlessly this weekend.
 
I figure if you're in that far, it makes sense to replace the crush washers

12157-10010 x3
90430-24003 x1
90430-A0003 x2

I bought mine on Amazon as a package.

Thanks, @CharlieS for posting the washer part numbers. I believe that 24003 goes on the Front Diff drain but I'm unsure about the others and could use some guidance. Also, do you have the Amazon link handy? I've seen the link also but can't find it now in the multiple multi-page threads I've been scanning. Thanks!
 
Rear two crush wahers.
front crush on fill copper on drain. Have welder standing by to aid removal of drain
trns case two aluminum
 
Thanks, @CharlieS for posting the washer part numbers. I believe that 24003 goes on the Front Diff drain but I'm unsure about the others and could use some guidance. Also, do you have the Amazon link handy? I've seen the link also but can't find it now in the multiple multi-page threads I've been scanning. Thanks!
Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017V4BAXI

GENUINE TOYOTA GASKET KIT
12157-10010 TAKES QTY 3 TWO FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL AND 1 FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
90430-24003 TAKES QTY 1 FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
90430-A0003 TAKES QTY 2 TRANSFER CASE
 
Alright, the Lexus bolt (90341-24016) was in stock at the dealer and I got it today. Waiting on the remaining plugs and washers/gaskets from the local Toyota dealer. Also, decided to go with the Valvoline SynPower 75W90 Gear Oil since it was on sale for $10/quart at my local Autozone. Please let me know if this is not a quality product.

Next on the list, if I can get out of the house, is a decent floor jack, some jack-stands, breaker bar, 24MM socket, and a craftsman hex bit set. Even though our governor just issued an executive order today saying everyone MUST stay home, getting automobile parts/supplies is considered an "Essential Activity". If the parts come in tomorrow, I'll probably try to do at least one of the diff's this weekend if not two of them.

One quick question: I have a set of 4 Rhino ramps that I've been using while changing the oil and AHC fluid. Is there any reason why I need to get the weight off the tires for the diff fluid changes? I'm going to get the jack and stands regardless for doing other tasks like rotating tires and greasing the driveshaft but didn't know if they were necessary for the diff work or it makes it easier in some way.
 
No jack required. I use H mode just to make getting under easier but the drive train height stays the same.

Of course I'm on 35s so there is that,but same on stock tires just a bit closer quarters
 

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