My UZJ40 Build - 2UZ iForce V8 and a750f 5spd auto (1 Viewer)

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did you ever consider using coil suspention during your awesome biuld

I did indeed. I actually still think about it. Like I said in my first post, I was less than half way confident this thing would run and drive. I figured I would see if it did before I went all out with the suspension. Don't be surprised if you see it 3 or 4 linked sometime in the near future.

I will not be doing the work though. My welding and metal fabrication skills are not good enough, let alone my lack of suspension knowledge.


WOW:popcorn::beer: I never have enough time to follow all the threads, really glad I saw this one and spent the time to read it all...very nice build, very talented young man..

Rob

Thanks Rob. Hopefully I'll have some more stuff to keep you entertained soon!

Awesome build! I was gonna throw a different engine into my 55.... but after seeing this I think I may have to sway this way!

I would recommend this engine, but only the 5 speed auto behind it if you want a HUGE electrical project. If I were putting it in a 55 and wanted something a bit more simple, I'd do the 2UZ with the 4 spd auto.

Thanks for following along!

i was thinking to my self .... your truck is great... but wouldn't it be greater to have abs and traction control or at least abs added to the lc axles... wonder how possible that is?

I am a fan of ABS, but not traction control. The ECU I'm using does not know how fast the vehicle is moving because it is looking for 4 wheel speed sensors, which I do not have. I would need rings with hall effect sensors in my hubs to even begin to make the ABS or skid control computers work. The only way my transmission knows when to shift is the speed of the output shaft in the transmission.

The other interesting thing about the brake booster in our 4Runner is that it has electronic vacuum pump on it. I don't know why exactly, but I think it provides supplemental vacuum to the intake manifold.

On that note, skid control would be a HUGE pain in the ass. It's looking for 4 wheel speed sensors, as well as steering wheel angle and yaw rate. Skid control in the 4Runner is much more complex than an older vehicle where its only looking for differentials of wheel speeds.

Jetranger,

I agree with the group on your 40, great job. You seem to be a very motivated young man with a great future. Keep it up!

Couple questions....I'm using the same exhaust, did you mig weld the pipes at the 2 to 1 coupler, looks to be pretty tight. I haven't started yet on mine and I see the vents for a/c, but where's the evaporator?

I'm a firm believer in Lizard Skin, as you, I have it inside and out, in the doors and under the hood. Good choice.

Thanks,

Hey there, thanks for the nice comments!

You are right, the 2-1 collector is very tight. I had it welded professionally. I tacked everything where I wanted it, then dropped it off to have it done. Not only would it have looked terrible if I tried welding it on my own, but I'm sure there would be plenty of exhaust leaks.

As far the the A/C, the evaporator is built in to the heater core unit. It's a Hurricane system (Old Air Products), which is the same unit they use on Icons. I will post pictures of the setup soon. It's right under the glove compartment, and really doesn't take up much room! It moves a lot of air on HIGH setting, much like a modern car!

Anything is possible! I was thinking the ABS thing would make a great tinkering project once my refirb is complete. Best way would be custom shafts, with tone rings cut into them. Then cut and weld bungs onto the housings, mount your ABS senders, plumb in the ABS manifold/controller...and bang bang.

You're exactly right! It would take something very similar to what you explained to send 4 wheel speed sensor inputs to the ECU.

Yes, it would be cool, but I don't think its worth the work. Also, I'm trying to keep my engine compartment as clean as possible. I'm trying to avoid wires and lines in it.
 
Thanks to everybody for following along! I'm glad people seem to like and appreciate this build!

Lots more pictures and info coming this week, so check back! Hoping to get it smogged and registered next week!

Next, I'll be talking about:

Vent window actuators
Mounting the seats/center console
A/C and heater system
Making the engine compartment as simple and clean as possible!
Keyless entry
 
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I would recommend this engine, but only the 5 speed auto behind it if you want a HUGE electrical project. If I were putting it in a 55 and wanted something a bit more simple, I'd do the 2UZ with the 4 spd auto.

Thanks for following along!

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the tip, i'm definitely not a electrical guru but I can't say i'd stray from the idea of doing a 5 speed auto if I came across a great deal.
 
Can you elaborate on why the 5 speed makes the swap more complicated than the 4 speed?
 
On that note, skid control would be a HUGE pain in the ass. It's looking for 4 wheel speed sensors, as well as steering wheel angle and yaw rate. Skid control in the 4Runner is much more complex than an older vehicle where its only looking for differentials of wheel speeds.

Really cool build. I do have a question on the traction control not being there. Are you getting any engine codes and do you have enough miles on it to determine that it is running 100% an not in some limp mode? We have done a lot of 2UZ swaps and that is the one thing that has made us no go this route due to some really strange issues we had before with speed sensors and running a LC tranny with a Tundra ECU. Took us 6 weeks to get to the bottom of that one.
 
... exhaust, did you mig weld the pipes at the 2 to 1 coupler, looks to be pretty tight.

It's pretty hard to get perfectly sealed welds with mig. Most exhaust wwelding that I have witnessed have been brazed with a torch and rod or tig welded.

We have done a lot of 2UZ swaps and that is the one thing that has made us no go this route due to some really strange issues we had before with speed sensors and running a LC tranny with a Tundra ECU.

It should be pretty easy to take the tranny speed sensor signal and produce fake wheel sensor signals to trick the ECU with a $10 atmel processor. I am available for consulting whenever you want.
 
Really cool build. I do have a question on the traction control not being there. Are you getting any engine codes and do you have enough miles on it to determine that it is running 100% an not in some limp mode? We have done a lot of 2UZ swaps and that is the one thing that has made us no go this route due to some really strange issues we had before with speed sensors and running a LC tranny with a Tundra ECU. Took us 6 weeks to get to the bottom of that one.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference but I think he used an ecu from a 2wd 4runner.
 
Can you elaborate on why the 5 speed makes the swap more complicated than the 4 speed?

The 5 speed is electronically controlled, meaning more wires, connections, and sensors. This also means the transmission ECU (built into the engine ECU) has to be happy with all of the inputs and sensors it needs, or it will not shift correctly, and it will go into limp mode.

It's not only the transmission that is the issue, but the other things that come with having that 'era' of ECU. Earlier models, around 98-02, you don't need the key transponder and key transponder ECU. The EVAP system also becomes more complicated. I believe the newer systems will run in limp mode if you do not have the complete EVAP system installed and running correctly. All valves, including charcoal canister!

All in all, the pre-03 2UZ is better for swaps, especially if using a manual transmission and 'manual' throttle with cable.

Here are a few pages from the a750 repair manual explaining different functions and inputs. Check them out and you'll realize how advanced the a750 actually is. When everything all works, its amazing. When it doesn't, its a nightmare.

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Really cool build. I do have a question on the traction control not being there. Are you getting any engine codes and do you have enough miles on it to determine that it is running 100% an not in some limp mode? We have done a lot of 2UZ swaps and that is the one thing that has made us no go this route due to some really strange issues we had before with speed sensors and running a LC tranny with a Tundra ECU. Took us 6 weeks to get to the bottom of that one.

Christo-

About 2 years ago, I unhooked all 4 wheel sensors from our 4Runner and drove it around. As you know, this is the only type of speed input to the ECU on the 4Runner (no VSS). Of course, the TRAC light, ABS light, and ENGINE light all came on, but it still drove, shifted, and operated as normal. This is what gave the motivation to continue with my project.

I do have a check engine code currently in my 40, which I knew I'd have. It's SPD SENSOR. I've had it on for a while. I've driven quite a few drive cycles, and so far, no limp mode. I have 60 miles on the odometer so far.

If it does go into limp mode, I will either:

a- track down a 100 series ECU from an 03 or 04 and send the SPD sensor signal from the 100 series transfer case VSS to the ECU SPD input

b- trick the 4Runner ECU into thinking there are 4 wheel speed sensors by modifying the 100 series VSS signal to a comparable wheel speed sensor signal

So far, so good though. As with the rest of the build, I'll keep tackling problems as they arise.

What did you do to remedy the situation above that took 6 weeks to figure out?

As a side note, a Land Cruiser buddy and I were having a discussion about Slee 2UZ swaps the other day. I have seen one in person in an 80 series, and it was great. I am aware of how much you charge, and at first, I thought it was outrageous. But, after going through what I've been through, I feel its justified. The amount of research, custom work, headaches, time, and money has been well beyond what I expected. The 2UZ is an amazing platform and well proven. I think they're great for 40's, 60's, and 80's. Keep doing what you're doing, and hopefully I can be of some assistance to you if you ever need any information in the future (if mine continues to operate how I'm hoping)!

I will keep you updated in the next few weeks as I drive it more.

It's pretty hard to get perfectly sealed welds with mig. Most exhaust wwelding that I have witnessed have been brazed with a torch and rod or tig welded.

You're right Eddy! No way I could have done it. The guy I have weld for me is amazing. He's an artist with his welders. Check out his beads on the truss for his Ultra4 4500 buggy:

truss.jpg


It should be pretty easy to take the tranny speed sensor signal and produce fake wheel sensor signals to trick the ECU with a $10 atmel processor. I am available for consulting whenever you want.

I may be needing your consulting soon Eddy, depending on the next couple weeks!


I'm not sure if it makes a difference but I think he used an ecu from a 2wd 4runner.

I did use a 2WD ECU, but that shouldn't make a difference for the TRAC or ABS. But.... the fact that you knew I used a 2WD ECU proves you actually read my thread.... thanks! ;)
 
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About 2 years ago, I unhooked all 4 wheel sensors from our 4Runner and drove it around. As you know, this is the only type of speed input to the ECU on the 4Runner (no VSS). Of course, the TRAC light, ABS light, and ENGINE light all came on, but it still drove, shifted, and operated as normal. This is what gave the motivation to continue with my project.

That is good to know.


What did you do to remedy the situation above that took 6 weeks to figure out?

The issue was for the two speed inputs to the ECU and the mismatch between the tundra tranny and LC ECU. The ECU kept thinking the tranny was slipping and the torque converter would never lock up. We ended up swapping the planetary gears in the transmission to the Land Cruiser unit. The ratio's was slightly different. In all what we read, it should not have affected anything, but we never could get it not to trip the check engine light.


As a side note, a Land Cruiser buddy and I were having a discussion about Slee 2UZ swaps the other day. I have seen one in person in an 80 series, and it was great. I am aware of how much you charge, and at first, I thought it was outrageous. But, after going through what I've been through, I feel its justified. The amount of research, custom work, headaches, time, and money has been well beyond what I expected. The 2UZ is an amazing platform and well proven. I think they're great for 40's, 60's, and 80's. Keep doing what you're doing, and hopefully I can be of some assistance to you if you ever need any information in the future (if mine continues to operate how I'm hoping)!

I will keep you updated in the next few weeks as I drive it more.

Thanks. Yes, at first glance it seems like a lot, but if you have our parts list and what goes into doing it, then you would understand. Also if you have done one of these you suddenly realize what is involved. Your truck looks super cool with that motor in it and I am sure you are going to be stoked to have it done.
 
This thread is primo. Subscribed. May need to pick your brain a bit to see what needs to be retained from the donor vehicle to make this all run correctly. I'm just about to jump into a very similar project and am very curious what can and can't be eliminated and or bypassed to keep it out of limp mode. Not concerned about a CEL but if it was off that would be a bonus.
 
Holy custom cool Cruiser! :grinpimp:

To say i'm impressed doesn't even begin to convey my thoughts on your build. Being into electrical things, and being a neat freak too, I was digging the circuit breaker panel and harnesses you have constructed. I too use Waytek for a lot of my wiring needs.

One question I have though: Is that Dakota Digital linear actuator truly water proof? The uses they list for it all seem to be for relatively dry locations. Regardless, that was an awesome use for it! Can't wait to see how you did the rear vent windows...
 
This is an awesome build can't wait to get mine built up and modded.
 
Everyone, thanks for all the compliments and questions. I get a large amount of emails and messages regarding the 2UZ, and I try to answer them quickly and accurately.

The past couple months I have been working on the garage. I did not like the Race Deck, so I ultimately went with epoxy. What a HUGE pain that was, from moving everything to grinding the floor. That took about 2 weeks alone. Also went from 4 fluorescent light bulbs to 36, painted, and converted to high lift doors do give more room for the 40 top.

My goal was to make an inviting work space for any time of year. I wanted an almost shadow-less environment, with nothing stored on the floor. Anyway, now my 40 looks like it's in an operating room :)

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There was about a week or so that I had to drive the 40 to work due to me selling my daily driver. I have put about 700 miles on it, with relatively no hiccups! It shifts great, always starts immediately, and is overall extremely smooth to drive.

One issue I did have though, is it was running warm. I was concerned about that, but I had faith in my radiator, being that it was the Champion that was in there while the old high performance Chevy was in there and it never got hot. The 2UZ in our 4Runner loves to be around 190 to 195, and with the OEM size Champion, I was seeing up to about 210-215 on the freeway (with AC off). The fact it was on the freeway led me to believe the rad wasn't big enough, so, time to upgrade. I went from the small OEM size radiator to a 19x26. It is about 100 sq inches larger, and holds close to 1 gallon more coolant. This also means I can run a larger fan and shroud.

Old vs new-

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I had to cut out the saddle and make my own mounts. Funny enough, the Champion radiator was about the very last thing on my list of 'stuff I can use on the build that I already had'. Nope.

With temps down close to 200 now (mind you, this is in August, Las Vegas, uphill, freeway, 108 degrees outside), I was happy with the upgrade. It was a compromise of space though, just like everything. I am using a Volvo 2 speed electric can. The largest SPAL fan I could fit was a 16" 2200cfm fan. The Volvo is more than 2200cfm on LOW. Close to 3500cfm on high.

Tight fit!

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As stated earlier, I went with the Old Air Products Hurricane system. I am extremely impressed with it so far, and the kit is very high quality. I had to crimp my own lines after I cut them to length. Luckily, our hangar has some amazing tools that are available 24 hrs a day. Here is an AC line crimping tool I used for about an hour and 8 crimps.

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Action shot-

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After getting the lines home, I test fit them and all were perfect! Don't forget to clock the fittings with bends in them! I added 7 oz of PAG 46 oil to my compressor and vacuumed out my system for 1 hour. Then I let it sit for 24 hours with no leaks! Time to charge it!

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After adding about 28oz of DuPont Freon, it was blowing ice cold!

Temp in garage that day-

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Temp of air coming out of the vents-

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I am so happy with the AC operation! I also hooked up the heater, which was pretty easy in comparison. The Hurricane unit moves A LOT of air!
 
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And lastly, I pulled the top off again to do the headliner. It took my a while to make up my mind on what I wanted. I thought about doing white Raptorliner, but I really like the look of dark headliners. I also wanted some sort of fabric to absorb sound. Although, I did coat the underside with ceramic Lizard Skin for insulation.

I decided to go with Ozite carpet. It's extremely light, easy to work with (stretchable), and cheap. I used Permatex headliner glue. I think it will hold up great! I am really happy with how it came out. It's all one piece with no wrinkles.

The top is back on now, and tightened up for good!

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Excellent, excellent, excellent.

Not to take you off track but got any pics of the interior door panels installed?

Thanks.

Coming soon... still working on a couple small details with them

Riley... don't make me come down there!! :steer:

We're all waiting for more!! :slap:

Sorry Danny! I promised Shandelle I'd build her an outdoor kitchen! I made it up in Google Sketchup and built it (I did everything but the Stucco)! This took about a month out of Land Cruiser build time!!

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Believe it or not, that is 220 feet of 1x1 .095 square tubing!!

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And complete!! Time to work on the 40 again.....

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Holy custom cool Cruiser! :grinpimp:

To say i'm impressed doesn't even begin to convey my thoughts on your build. Being into electrical things, and being a neat freak too, I was digging the circuit breaker panel and harnesses you have constructed. I too use Waytek for a lot of my wiring needs.

One question I have though: Is that Dakota Digital linear actuator truly water proof? The uses they list for it all seem to be for relatively dry locations. Regardless, that was an awesome use for it! Can't wait to see how you did the rear vent windows...

Hey there. Thank you for the comment! I used your resources to wire my windshield wiper motor. I really appreciate you making that information available. More info coming soon on rear vent windows. I was looking around my 40, and there is a ridiculous amount of motors/actuators on it!

As far as the Dakota actuator, after looking at it and feeling it, I feel confident it will hold up. Remember, I'm in Vegas. We get less than 5" of rain a year here!

Awesome build ! :cool:

Thanks tmarx!

The BEST 40 build I've ever seen!

That's awfully generous.... don't look too close! ;)

This is an awesome build can't wait to get mine built up and modded.

Look forward to meeting you next month!




Thanks again everybody for following and your patience!
jetranger
 
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