Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Since I don't run sway bars I don't have any credible experience to share on how that could change shock valving. Hopefully others will elaborate on that part. I would think that would factor into your decision though, like cruisermatt's suggestion for softer/standard valving with a sway bar set up.

EDIT: Looks like cruisermatt hit this before I did.

So from what I have found no one has run a front sway bar (other then the stock 60 front bar) on a SOA 60 before , which we all know is a rock magnet, plus all the bushings and links and mounts are thick rubber which means a ton of effectiveness is lost to compliance.

I am actively working on a front sway bar for my rig, nothing to show yet though. The 60 steering box being on the outside of the frame is the major obstacle. A RHD 60/80 box on mounted on the inside of the LHD frame rail or something like a Ford steering box would make it worlds easier, neither are options without completely re-doing my motors accessory drive though (I think).

(See this thread for further discussion:
Currie Anti Rock sway bars )
 
To answer with another question... are you planing to do any linking up front?

Interesting that you'd ask this, as I was just discussing this with some of the guys at GSMTR. My short answer is no, not anymore, but the long answer is below.

In the links vs leafs debate, there are a few factors as I see it:
1. driving style and location
2. wheel travel/flexiness
3. cost
4. overall sexiness

For point 1, I like doing rockcrawling to push myself and the truck's ability, daily driving meaning lots of road miles, then broverlanding/exploring in the woods of western NC. I don't live in a part of the country where I have large open swaths of land to go fast, or jumps, which means high cycle rates aren't a big concern. For this use case, I think leafs would work just as well as links.

For point 2, I just did some measuring (more on that in a bit) and it looks like I have about 12", maybe 13" of shock travel. With coilovers I could see 14-16" maybe? Would that little bit additional really be a huge benefit? Arguably no. My RTI numbers would be better sure, but would I be able to do trails with links that I can't currently do with leafs? I don't think so. The body is increasingly the issue, not the suspension :lol:

Leafs are much, much cheaper than coils. Hands down.

I think moonshine is pretty sexy already. Would links add sexiness? Absolutely, but should I do links for the sexiness? Probably not.

Long story short, back in the day I had always thought that some day I would do links up front, but now I don't think I will.

So from what I have found no one has run a front sway bar (other then the stock 60 front bar) on a SOA 60 before , which we all know is a rock magnet, plus all the bushings and links and mounts are thick rubber which means a ton of effectiveness is lost to compliance.

I am actively working on a front sway bar for my rig, nothing to show yet though. The 60 steering box being on the outside of the frame is the major obstacle. A RHD 60/80 box on mounted on the inside of the LHD frame rail or something like a Ford steering box would make it worlds easier, neither are options without completely re-doing my motors accessory drive though (I think).

(See this thread for further discussion:
Currie Anti Rock sway bars )

I think I'll end up copying what you come up with for a sway bar solution.
 
All good points. Lockers will get you into more places than 2 extra inches of travel.

With this direction I'd want to look into better leaves for up front with a minimum stiffer shock (no lower than 800/3600 in bilstein speak). Those Fox shocks custom valved that Target mentioned do look attractive. My interpretation of better leaves is either custom or thicker domestic kinds. A little longer than the FJ60 leaves wouldn't hurt either. I've also been interested in the 52-54" varieties but ended up going with my extra long ones again when I swapped in the D60 up front.
 
For shocks, I think I like the idea of the Fox Smoothies from accutune. I like that they will tune it for you, so I'll call them to see what they need to get that done.

For sure I will need the compressed/extended lengths, so I did some measuring. I have some questions at the end, so I'm hoping y'all will be able to help me out.

Measuring from shock bolt to shock bolt:
23.5" at ride height
20" at full bump
30" at full extend

Full bump and full extend were measured with the passenger tire 32.5" off the ground. My front springs are flat, if not negative, and are w-shaped at ride height. The full bump measurement was taken when the current 14" shock was completely collapsed, so I think I can add another 1" of compression. Furthermore, my passenger rear tire was still planted on the ground, meaning there is more travel here, but I don't have a good way of testing with a higher obstacle right now.

Now that I've outlined the test I just executed, here are the questions.

1. With good springs, ride height will be higher (duh) but would overall travel change? I'm thinking no, assuming shackle length does not change.
2. Since I haven't been able to max out the truck, how much should I add based on the pics? I'm essentially trying to decide between the 12" shock and the 14" shock

EDIT for pics:

1996900




1996901


1996902


1996903
 
Last edited:
All good points. Lockers will get you into more places than 2 extra inches of travel.

With this direction I'd want to look into better leaves for up front with a minimum stiffer shock (no lower than 800/3600 in bilstein speak). Those Fox shocks custom valved that Target mentioned do look attractive. My interpretation of better leaves is either custom or thicker domestic kinds. A little longer than the FJ60 leaves wouldn't hurt either. I've also been interested in the 52-54" varieties but ended up going with my extra long ones again when I swapped in the D60 up front.

100% agreed. I think I'll get some springs ordered up and swap the ones I have with custom ones.

I've thought about moving to longer springs, but like the link discussion, I don't think moving from a 47" (just measured) FJ60 rear leaf to a 52-54" leaf will make a dramatic difference. What do you think?

Moving the mounts wouldn't be the end of the world, you're right.
 
Leafs are much, much cheaper than coils. Hands down.

To plays devil's advocate for a minute no reason a properly setup 3 link won’t be as streatable as a leaf spring setup everything else being equal.

If you go Fox shocks the price difference between coil over and smoothie is $85.00.

Coil Springs can be bought for as low as $35 EA if you shop around and Accutune sells the Eibach 2.5″ ID Springs for $65.00 EA

A complete RuffStuff three link looks to be around $800 but with your skills I’m sure it would be less than half to buy the components to build your own.

The PRO’S of link and Coils as you would be using them on Moonshine.

Spring rate easily adjustable.

Ride height easily adjustable

Less money down the road if you want to make incremental changes and the longevity of the components would outweigh any upfront cost.

If I had to do it over I would not have gone down the custom leafs road I did.
 
Re-reading my post, I pretty much implied that coils were for go fast and jumps, leafs were for street and crawling. Coils are better in every situation, no debate about that. The question I was debating is how much better, and cost was a big factor in that. I didn't even think to compare the smoothies to coilovers, lol. Excellent points J Mack, and your last bit "if i had to do it over" is really making me reconsider. Putting coils in would make more sense (similar cost and time, but coils > leafs) to me than redo my spring mounts for different leaf springs, and that's a key point I hadn't thought of before.

The fact remains that I need new shocks, bumpstops, and leafs to get it where it needs to be. I have another set of leafs, so I can throw those in. I have bumps, and will put those in as well. For shocks then, the stiffest stock 7100 probably makes the most sense.

Maybe when these next springs wear out I'll be in a position to put coils under the front :p
 
The fact remains that I need new shocks,
Then just buy the threaded bodies now and run them with your leaves and reuse the shocks when you convert to coil over.
Maybe when these next springs wear out I'll be in a position to put coils under the front :p


Thought I remembered reading somewhere "If you don't have time to do it right, then when will you have time to do it over? "
 
Last edited:
Then just buy the threaded bodies now and run them with your leaves and reuse the shocks when you convert to coil over.

Thought I remembered reading somewhere "If you don't have time to do it right, then when will you have time to do it over? "

:lol: That quote is awesome isn't it?

I've been very happy with the front suspension for the past 5 years, which tells me I did it right. Fresh springs and shocks might get me another 5 years. When it comes time to move to coils, if I ever move to coils, then that will be done right too.
 
Don't ever buy anything from 4WheelParts. Those clowns can't ever seem to get an order in on time, or set proper expectations.

The shocks sure are pretty though. They came with spacers, that I think will allow me to put them in a regular shock bushing mount. I'll find out in not too long.

2007674


2007676
 
Last edited:
Went on a nice little expedition trip this weekend. Didn't get a chance to put the fresh springs and shocks in, but she still held together.

2011908


2011909


Camp kitchen is still kicking ass. Have spent almost two full weeks living out of moonshine this year already.

2011911
 
Finally getting around to fresh springs/shocks/bumps. Planned on getting further today, but rain kept chasing us back inside.

10t sunnex jack stands are awesome.

MVIMG_20190824_121745.jpg


New and old springs. New springs are aftermarket, but seem stock height? Not sure. Same leaf count, but each leaf is thicker and there are more isolator pads between leaves.

IMG_20190824_121929.jpg


Tie rod end holes in the high steer arms were wollered out, so I drilled them out and used tapered sleeves from RuffStuff.

IMG_20190824_134524.jpg


Looking forward to making more progress soon.

IMG_20190824_153755.jpg
 
Of course I ran out of welding wire, and nearly out of gas, today after it rained all day yesterday. Smh.

Springs in, bumpstops located, with the ds bumpstops tacked. Springs don't have as much arch as I'd like, but it'll have to do. May end up putting an add-a-leaf in down the road.

Bump will start acting on the spring at (pretty much) ride height. Hopefully that doesn't impact ride quality much.

IMG_20190825_152357.jpg
 
Might make a little noise, but I’m not sure you’ll feel it hitting. Depends how much pressure you have in them.

They're foam bumps, not air bumps. Two of the "softer" foam inserts inside each bump. Hopefully I won't be able to feel it.

Picked up wire and gas today, so hopefully we can get this knocked out.
 
Got the bumps gusseted and burned in last night. Made quick upper shock tabs that work with my existing hoops and got those tacked in place. Pretty stoked on how the bumps are working out. Can't wait to get the :grinpimp: shocks installed either!

Upper mounts are slightly rotated to allow the bolt to be installed/removed easily.

1566914511646.png


1566914526655.png
 
Got the bumps gusseted and burned in last night. Made quick upper shock tabs that work with my existing hoops and got those tacked in place. Pretty stoked on how the bumps are working out. Can't wait to get the :grinpimp: shocks installed either!

Upper mounts are slightly rotated to allow the bolt to be installed/removed easily.

View attachment 2068940

View attachment 2068941
Looking at the pictures and it looks like parts of my build, hahaha, same shocks and hoops with same motor and color, awesome Johnny.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom