Currie Anti Rock sway bars

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

workingdog

workingdog

GOLD Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Threads
500
Messages
3,172
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
I searched and found some discussions (CruiserMat) but few pictures of how people are actually installing these in the rear. I found one using google search for an FJ60. Do people go through frame, over frame, under frame, forward, aft?
 
Mstoffregen motor sports is doing an ls swap and 80 axle swap front and rear with the rear using leaf springs and currie sway bar through the fame in the rear....he does top notch work
Screenshot_20190525-204436.webp
Screenshot_20190525-204420.webp
 
He is on Instagram if you have Instagram give him a follow i am on there also tmx_motorsports my page is private i am not affiliated with him but do chat on ig and email good guy not sure if he is on here or not
 
So ... ruff stuff also makes a similar sway bar, only theirs comes with arms of different lengths. Obviously, the length makes a big difference in how the sway bar works. Currie seems to make only one length (for a 40 or a 60). How should I think about the different lengths? Why would I want long or short - other than issues of clearance (Clarence).
 
Ya ... but why would you want more or less leverage? It also means more and less rotation put into bar for a given amount of axle travel.
 
So, TK1 racing is a great site. Thanks for the link. Here's the information they have about arm length and stuff. Very helpful.

We generally want the arm level to the earth when the shock is roughly 50/50 travel. For a dessert truck, this probably means the arm is level at ride height. But for a rock crawler with lots of shock sag available, The arm will absolutely be pointed up hill as it get closer to the axle housing. The arm length should be at least as long as the shock travel if possible. End links generally need to be at least as long as the travel of the shock or longer. And the mounting tabs on the axle housing should generally be 1-2" wider than the outside of the sway bar arms. This is to offset the wild axle swing 3 and 4 link suspensions travel during suspension sag. For example: If I had a tube chassis rock crawler with a rear sway bar, I'd expect the arms to sit about 3-4" higher on the axle side than on the sway bar side. I'd expect the axle tabs to be 41" wide on a 39" bar. and I'd expect a 16-20" end link for a 16" shock.
 
If you want to go with the Currie stuff, you can also buy their "kit" and mix and match different components. You just have to order it directly through them.

@tmxmotorsports Agreed, Matt does indeed do top notch work! He is a friend of mine.
 
hoser said:
If you want to go with the Currie stuff, you can also buy their "kit" and mix and match different components. You just have to order it directly through them.

@tmxmotorsports Agreed, Matt does indeed do top notch work! He is a friend of mine.
Click to expand...
Thats awesome good friend to have.
 
You guys need a room? hoser, where are you??
 
There are several variables in a sway bar. The diameter of the bar, the length of the arm, and the length of the bar all play a role in the stiffness of the sway bar. A good starting point in terms of dimensions are the stock sway bars, then decide if you want a stiffer or softer rate and set your sway bar up accordingly. You’re pretty much stuck to a fixed bar length depending on if you have the arms inside or outside the frame, the adjustable bolt points on the arms in inch increments are a good easy way to go in terms of adjustability.

I would start with a front sway bar first. For whatever reason everyone wants a rear bar first even though it’s pretty well known that having the rear suspension of a vehicle tighter then the front will lead to understeer.

I’m working on a front sway bar for mine right now and should hopefully having something cool to post in a few weeks. If I’m still not content after that and upgrading my rear shocks I’ll add a soft rear sway bar as well.
 
I could probably get the same company that makes the sway bars for the monster trucks and pro mega trucks to make something but would be alot of fab work and r&d not sure if its worth the money and time tho
 
There’s tons of options for used bars and arms if you search “NASCAR sway bar” on eBay. They seem to have pretty standard spline patterns.
 
CruiserMatt. Let me know what you come up with. I was going with the rear because 1), there's a lot more room. And 2) I was hoping it would help with my massive under steer problem and with this thing where when I going around a corner, the rig is all loaded up, I hit a bump, and the entire rig starts to oscillate. It's not death wobble, but it's scary as hell. But I realize I have to deal with both ends. I have the stock anti sway, I just need to fab up some tabs for the Dana 60 so I can put it back in.
 
workingdog said:
CruiserMatt. Let me know what you come up with. I was going with the rear because 1), there's a lot more room. And 2) I was hoping it would help with my massive under steer problem and with this thing where when I going around a corner, the rig is all loaded up, I hit a bump, and the entire rig starts to oscillate. It's not death wobble, but it's scary as hell. But I realize I have to deal with both ends. I have the stock anti sway, I just need to fab up some tabs for the Dana 60 so I can put it back in.
Click to expand...

body roll =/= understeer. I would do a front sway bar first (I also have a SOA and while it is very low it is super soft, and I will be doing a front first.) Yes, it is a lot hard to package, which is the main challenge I am trying to overcome right now. I am not completely certain how I will do it yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom