Builds Let's build a 79 Series from parts... (3 Viewers)

[c2dfj45]

The oem clutch does not hold up to good with the turbo but the Terrain Tamer HD version works pretty well

Well then it's a good thing I know how to do a clutch job on it

Hopefully it lasts for a bit. Terrain Tamer next or 300MM if I can source everything.

 

[c2dfj45]

Kind of a quiet end to the week on #2...no real work on it. We'll be back on it next week I think. Looking like a few weeks before wiring starts I think. Unloaded a 1HZ today for the next project. Thought this was a cool pic.....one heck of a beautiful 4Runner lurking back there. Oh yeah....and a lowly Ferrari.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Well then it's a good thing I know how to do a clutch job on it

Hopefully it lasts for a bit. Terrain Tamer next or 300MM if I can source everything.

We stock the entire 300mm upgrade kits should you decide to go that route!

 

[c2dfj45]

We stock the entire 300mm upgrade kits should you decide to go that route!

I think we'll need one on the 1HDT that will be going into another project....will be in touch for sure.

 

[cruisermatt]

Used my beloved flaring tool to put a rib on the end of the lines...closest I could get to factory. I'm sure there is a specialized tool to do this.
View attachment 2189331

Can you show how you did this?

 

[c2dfj45]

Can you show how you did this?

We use our double flaring tool.......not at all like you're supposed to use it.

We put the tubing out way over where it's supposed to be.

Use the tubing size's operation 1 to push the tubing to about where it starts to bubble. You can feel when it's starting to compress...can't go too far though or it will be to flared.

And that's that....the end could certainly be cut off if you wanted more of a single flare. This was 1/4" line....easy to do. 3/8" is even better.

1/4" and 3/16"...a little tougher for 3/16".

 

[cruisermatt]

Certainly good enough for low pressure hose. Plus we’ve already got the tool

 

[c2dfj45]

Certainly good enough for low pressure hose. Plus we’ve already got the tool

Perfect for low pressure. We ran a few practice ones on some scraps to get things just right. Pretty cool use of the tool.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

We installed the breather manifold up high in the engine compartment....for as stripped down as these trucks are...there weren't too many optimal areas. Needed to make sure we kept it out of the way of our hood struts too. We wanted to keep the lines running on the driver's side of the truck....so this is where it went.

Slick little bracket behind the clutch accumulator was all it needed. Pretty impressed with this manifold setup. Nice stuff. We'll tee in the breather vents for the front an rear diff lock actuators into the lines we ran. Easy.

View attachment 2190093View attachment 2190095View attachment 2190091View attachment 2190092

Interested with the fittings and the whole manifold setup for the breathers. If I may ask did you fabricate this yourself or got it somewhere? I had this type of fittings (push type spring loaded) for my f/r diff breathers back in Manila but can’t seem to find one here in the states. Thanks in advance.

 

[c2dfj45]

Interested with the fittings and the whole manifold setup for the breathers. If I may ask did you fabricate this yourself or got it somewhere? I had this type of fittings (push type spring loaded) for my f/r diff breathers back in Manila but can’t seem to find one here in the states. Thanks in advance.

Ebay.... 4 Port Deluxe Diff Breather Kit for Toyota Landcruise Tundra Filter Gearbox | eBay

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Thank you @c2dfj45 I prefer this over the arb

 

[c2dfj45]

Thank you @c2dfj45 I prefer this over the arb

I agree....pretty slick setup and it's feels to be pretty quality stuff.

 

[c2dfj45]

We've been spending time on getting the GIANT snorkel I decided to go with into the OEM air box.....lots of work but a great opportunity for our new guy to use his brain and learn a thing or 2.

4.5" outlet for the snorkel

Needed to remove the old inlet from the air box...just spot welded on.

Had some steel plate around that we formed pretty close to what we needed. Really needed to do this on a sheetmetal roller but we don't have one.....so we worked and worked it and worked it.

 

[c2dfj45]

I had bought a 4" mandrel bent tube that we used to transition towards the air box.....we only needed a section of this.

This was pretty critical to making things work....4.5" to 4" silicone coupler.

Tubing cut about where we thought it would be

Had to hog out the side of the air cleaner to allow this 4" tubing to fit.

And finally the tubing could enter into the canister so we could figure out how much we would be cutting back

 

[c2dfj45]

I'm from the school of just kind of guessing where to cut things.....but my guys are not from that school fortunately....which is why they do the work. This was the smartest move of the day.....since we were going to have a slightly non-round hole due to how the tubing entered, they used tape to come up with the hole we needed to make in the plate. Smart.

Missed the part where they cut the plate....by this time it had been pretty well cut down to fit the air box.

Tacked together(tacked it in place)

 

[c2dfj45]

Still needs some fine finishing work but this is where we ended up today. We will use rivets and adhesive to bond the plate to the box...I don't think it's necessary to weld it. We'll probably have it all powdercoated so it's nice and pretty.

I think we'll straighten out that zig zag cut on the inner part of the box. Weld in a straighter piece so it looks better. We cut that section out to leave a little meat for rivets and adhesive.

 

[c2dfj45]

Starting to think about battery tray number 2....a little more challenging as the OEM tray doesn't fit because of the 80 series shock mount. Still not exactly sure I have the right tray....I seem to recall that there is one tray that is reversed for L or R side but maybe the braces to the fender are different depending on side. I think we'll use the tray but for sure we will have to make some different braces.....my hood strut hits the OEM one.

Need to start thinking about batteries....definitely need them in there when we start to wire.

 

[JMasi]

that looks great! Since you are there and did all that work, I think you should weld it.

 

[2fpower]

I did not know you could powdercoat if you used adhesive... so I assumed you would have to weld it.

 

[c2dfj45]

that looks great! Since you are there and did all that work, I think you should weld it.

Originally, I thought that we would need to have a removable inlet plate so we could kind of mount the inlet in the silicon adapter then mount to the air box but I think if it's fixed to the air box, we can install it as one piece. Need to test my theory out tomorrow.

Was a little afraid of warping the air box housing too with welding.