Builds Land Crusher Build Thread (3 Viewers)

[Somebodyelse5]

View attachment 1660548

Might be the camera angle but it looks like the two outer gas cans would easily get lopped off on a tight trail. Plus, it blocks your tail light. If sticking with Rotopax's, I'd probably opt to mount it on the spare tire with the spout on top.

Below might be okay too...

View attachment 1660551

Yeah, my location isn’t ideal for tight areas, but for this trip it worked ok. The 1gal pax fit in the space perfectly, and ultimately I’d like to have the 1gal water pax mounted there and the 2gal fuel somewhere else, spare tire probably.

They do not block enough of the brake light to be a concern though, the angle of the photo is a bit decieving.

I’ll post more pics from the trip when I get to a computer

 

[Somebodyelse5]

 

[Somebodyelse5]

 

[yosshaa]

nice build, love all the fab work.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

nice build, love all the fab work.

thank you sir! If you need anything, I am nearby, plus my garage has AC

 

[Somebodyelse5]

The cruiser is about to go under the knife... I've been meaning to replace my LCA bushings for about a year now and my rack is in desperate need of replacing (starting to leak and the bushings are so shot I can feel the rack bouncing under my left foot). The steering feels pretty light (much much lighter than my brothers 2001 100), but what is crazy is how little play there is in the steering wheel for how much the rack is able to move.

List of stuff to be done:
LBJ's Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions
Notes: get some 2" electrical conduit couplers (male threaded) for pressing back in.

LCA Bushings LCA Frame Bushing Removal Help
Notes: these seriously suck to get out. LCA side (#1) had to be chiseled out after burning out the core (most of sunday). Frame side (#2) came out a lot easier (R/R took about .5 hours) using a 5/8 grade 8, fine thread, threaded rod with some nuts, a 1.5" black pipe male threaded coupler (only use the threaded end as the unthreaded section is too big of a dia), and some ball joint press cups. I think the trick here is the fine threads.

Power steering flush and clean res Steering Flush & Cleaning
Rack How To: Replace your own steering rack
Tie rod ends
Front wheel bearings Front Brakes / Wheel Bearing Refurb Parts List
Front rotors and pads
A lot of cursing and bleeding

Cruiser Outfitters (scroll down)
Part Name Part Number QTY Cost Ref
54mm Socket FA15007 1 $21.50 Front Axle Hub
Spring Scale FASCALE 1 $22.50 Setting bearing preload
Wheel Bearings FAWB9807T 2 $87.50 Includes wheel seal, locker washer, and hub gasket
Snap Rings Kit FAWB9807TKIT 2 $14.50 (You may only need 1)

Toyota Dealership - Tempe, AZ - (I need to find my receipt)
Tie Rod Ends 4504769100 2 --------- (Does not come with jam nuts)
Rack ---------------- 1 $500 (New, OEM with 20% "Land Cruiser Club" discount)
Front Pads 446560220 2 --------- (2 sets)
Front Rotors 4243160281 2 ---------
anti-squeel ---------------- 4 ---------
pins ----------------- 4 ---------
LCA Bushings ----------------- 4 ---------
LCA Washers ----------------- 2 --------- (You may or may not need a few of these, I used 2, 1 under the hat of each frame bushing))

Amazon
Rack Bushings W13210 1 $44.80 Brand: Whiteline, Factory rack does not come with horseshoe bushing, I plan to use all
Polybushings
LBJ's -------------- 2 --------- Brand: 555



I'll add the missing P/N's and prices for future reference when I get a chance, included what I currently had on hand. Hopefully this info all together will be helpful to someone (I know it would have been for me)

 

[Somebodyelse5]

@bucfl
It's not the most elegant, but it works....

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I spent all of sunday getting one, #1 bushing out of one of my LCA's. These things were not budging. I used a torch to heat up the metal core of the bushing, then pushed it out as it melted the rubber. Don't do this inside, it stinks. I wasn't thinking... @ncavi10 can verify, the garage was toxic for a while. After I cut out most of the rubber, I did some surgery with a sawzall to make a grove in the bushing, then I went at it with a chisel and a sledge. I picked up an air hammer and some chisels this morning, going to give that a go for the #2 bushing, hoping that works a bit better. Pressing the new #1 bushing back in was pretty easy, one of my press cups with around the rubber perfectly and I set it in my bench wise and clamped it... for the #2 bushing (once I get it out) I think I am planning on using some 5/8" fine thread, grade 8 threaded rod... wish me luck.

The LBJ's pressed out easily, going back in my press tool (C clamp style) was a bit of a pita, cups were a bit too long and a bit too big dia wise. Going to Ace tomorrow to try to find some pipe fittings that will fit a little better. I REALLY wish I had a lathe....

 

[Somebodyelse5]

LCA #2 Bushing removed using some 5/8" threaded rod (fine, grade 8), a piece of threaded 1.5" pipe, and some leverage. It came out, and had the new one pressed in, in about 30 minutes total. For anyone interested, my '99 had one washer under the flange of the #2 bushing and no washers under the #1 bushing flange.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Whoever service my wheelbearings last used silicon on top of the old gasket on the drive hub flange.... talk about a pita.

I love AZ... my hub came out of my rotor by hand once the bolts were out I was expecting to need to use the new press!

 

[bucfl]

I like it! Its simple and effective. I have a awning from a pop up camper that came off been meaning to do something like this.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Nice post by @hank14 good for future reference.

Bearing repack or replacement

Thanks for everyone's input. Most of this is straight out of the FSM, with extra commentary here and there.

Procedure for front bearing repack or replacement and rotor replacement on Toyota Landcruiser UZJ100 series

Indications for service:

1. Bearing repack is part of a comprehensive preventative maintenance program, performed every 30,000 miles under typical driving conditions, more frequently under severe duty (high water crossings, heavy loads, etc).
2. Bearing replacement performed when bearings show signs of wear during routine inspection. Bearings that have been properly maintained may last in excess of 200,000 miles of use.

Here’s a link about wheel bearing inspection:

theautoist.com

Parts/supplies needed for the job:

2- Inner oil seals
2- Flange gaskets
2- Lock washers
2- Inner bearings and races (if indicated)
2- Outer bearings and races (if indicated)
MP hub bearing grease- a high quality conventional or synthetic
Brake cleaner- aerosol
Penetrating lubricant
You may need new snap rings if worn or damaged
The FSM calls for new flange nuts. These can be reused if they are not damaged
A clean work area- contamination is bad news for bearings
Lots of shop towels or paper towels


Tools needed:

Wheel chocks
Heavy duty floor or bottle jack- high lift type for SUV’s
Heavy duty jack stands
Lug wrench
Torque wrench
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Brass bar
Sockets- 12 mm for brake line, 14 mm for flange nuts, 17 mm for brake caliper bolts, ?? mm for lug nuts, 54 mm for hub nuts

Link for 54 mm hub nut socket (it is a cheap socket- you get what you pay for, but it got the job done):

http://www.tooltopia.com/browseproducts/OTC-6612-Wheel-Bearing-Locknut-Socket---54mm-for-Toyota.html

Spring tension gauge (kitchen scale or fish scale can be used)
Outer snap ring pliers
FSM calls for special service tools to seat bearing races. This can be done without the SST’s, if caution is used.

Procedure:

1. The cone washers and flange can be difficult to remove. Spraying with some penetrating lubricant 2-3 days before the service can help.
2. Pick a side to start working on. Loosen lug nuts. Securely jack up vehicle according to owner’s manual. Remove wheel.
3. Remove the brake caliper, the brake line bracket, and securely support the caliper to the upper shock mount.
4. Using the snap ring expander, remove the snap ring on the end of the spindle.
5. Remove the 6 flange nuts and washers. Place the washers to the side, and replace the nuts to protect the stud threads.
6. The cone washers are tapered and seated into the flange holes around the studs. They can be removed by tapping on the ends of the studs with a brass bar and hammer, using caution not to damage the threads. It may take several passes around the flange, working on each stud in sequence, but you will see them pop free. You can also attempt to loosen them by tapping on the flange itself or placing a long socket over the studs against the flange and tapping repeatedly.

Here are a couple of threads discussing this:

Special Tools (home brew)

Trying to replace fronts disks but I can't remove the HUB Body

7. Remove the flange and gasket- they may be sealed together- the gasket is thin, standard gray gasket material.
8. The lock washer is thin metal and visible under the lock nut. Release the lock washer, using a screwdriver, by unbending the tabs.
9. Remove the lock nut.
10. Remove the lock washer.
11. Remove the adjusting nut.
12. Being careful not to damage the ABS speed sensor rotor and oil seal, remove the axle hub and rotor. The claw washer and outer bearing may fall out, so use caution that they are not damaged.
13. The oil seal is located on the back of the rotor. Remove it by prying it out with a screwdriver.
14. Remove the inner bearing from the axle hub.

At this point, the bearings can be cleaned and carefully inspected for abnormal wear. If they look OK, inspect the inner and outer races as well. If all is well, the inner and outer races do not have to be removed. Skip to step # 3 in re-assembly .If they are worn, proceed as follows:

15. Clean as much grease out of the axle hub as possible to aid visualization.
16. Using a brass bar and hammer, remove the outside bearing race. Be careful not to damage the ABS speed sensor rotor.
17. Using a brass bar and hammer, remove the inside bearing race.
18. Rotor replacement can be done at this point, if necessary.
a. Mount the axle hub with the disc in a soft jaw vice. Close vice until it holds disc, do not tighten further.
b. Remove the 5 bolts and separate the axle hub and disc.

Re-assembly

1. Install disc- install the 5 bolts to the axle hub Torque 54 ft-lb
2. Install bearing outer races- for both sides, I placed the old races on top of the new ones and gently worked around them, tapping into place. The inner one is deeper, so I had to gently use a punch to seat it all the way. A brass bar or punch will greatly reduce the risk of damage to the hub. Make sure the races are positioned so the thinner (tapered) edge is facing outward, otherwise the bearing won’t fit.
3. Pack bearings with MP grease. Use your hands, place them in a zip-lock, or use a bearing packer, but make sure the grease is worked in thoroughly. Avoid any dirt or contamination.
4. Coat the inside of the axle hub with MP grease, enough to settle in between the two bearings.
5. Install inner bearing and oil seal. Coat the lip of the oil seal with MP grease.
6. Install axle hub to steering knuckle. It should slide right into place, and fit squarely.
7. Install the outer bearing.
8. Install the claw washer.
9. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it to 43 ft-lbs.
10. Turn the axle hub several times to settle down the bearings.
11. Loosen the adjusting nut until it can be turned by hand.
12. Retighten the nut to 38-57 in-lbs (4-6 ft lbs). I did this by attaching the spring gauge 10 inches from the center of the nut and tightening to 6 lbs.
13. Check that there is no looseness on the bearing.
14. Using the spring gauge (fish scale), measure the preload of one of the wheel lugs in the 12 o’clock position. The preload should be between 9.5-15.0 lbs.
15. Install lock washer and the lock nut. Torque to 47 ft-lbs.
16. Check that the axle hub rotates smoothly and there is no looseness on the bearing.
17. Re-check the preload (9.5-15.0 lbs). Make sure you measure in the direction of forward wheel rotation. If not within the specified range, adjust it again with the adjusting nut.
18. Secure the lock nut by bending one of the lock washer teeth inward and the other teeth outward.
19. Place new gasket on the axle hub.
20. Install flange to the axle hub.
21. Install the 6 cone washers, flat washers, and nuts. Torque to 24 ft-lb.
22. Pull outward on the drive shaft and install the snap ring. Be careful- that thing can fly across a garage. Make sure there is not excessive play in the drive shaft and the snap ring is seated securely. If not, replace it.
23. Install grease cap.
24. Install brake caliper (now’s a good time for new pads if necessary). Torque caliper bolts 91 ft-lb.
25. Install flexible brake hose and bolt to steering knuckle (21 ft-lb).
26. Install front wheel (97 ft-lb)
27. Celebrate. Find some mud or something.

 

[1NTRANSIT]

@Somebodyelse5 are you still aiming to install the 200 wheels? I have the same set but ended up shelfing them until I decide if I want to run spacers. Would be great to see them on a 100!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

@Somebodyelse5 are you still aiming to install the 200 wheels? I have the same set but ended up shelfing them until I decide if I want to run spacers. Would be great to see them on a 100!

Yup, still planning on installing them just waiting until I need new rubber. I have a good bit of life left in my current 285/75r16's and can't justify the expense. I may jump the gun and get new rubber before HIH this summer.... we shall see. Also, not sure what size tire I should run.. maybe 305/75R18?

Decided to try a slightly wider tire with a little more void area but still an AT: Cooper S/T MAXX 305/75R18. Although no real dirt time yet I'm getting close to 1,000 miles, mostly highway, and they sure are smooth and comfortable. Time will tell the rest of the story

View attachment 1202038

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I ordered a Pioneer AVIC-8201NEX head unit yesterday... comes with a backup cam, native mapping, and Apple carplay... should be a nice addition on road trips. I am starting more projects before I finish the old ones...

I have the passenger side mostly finished, LBJ's, LCA #1 and #2 bushes installed and my hub disassembled. Slow and steady...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

After some trouble with getting the snap ring on, I made this tool and it did the trick

 

[Somebodyelse5]

A little project I have been working on, on the side. Wedge type RTT from 80/20


Link should take you to an interactive model...
A360

 

[Somebodyelse5]

 

[pbreisch]

What did you think of having your cooler mounted like that? I am thinking of doing the same thing and curious if there are any pitfalls I am not thinking of. My initial concern was security, but I sketched a similar solution to your lock.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

What did you think of having your cooler mounted like that? I am thinking of doing the same thing and curious if there are any pitfalls I am not thinking of. My initial concern was security, but I sketched a similar solution to your lock.

So far no pitfalls. Just make sure you account for the space needed for the cooler lid when it opens. If you are short, it is a bit of a pita to get stuff out, but not a deal breaker. I wouldn't mount the rotopax underneath if it's a hardcore wheeling trip. If you want the CAD file for the cooler mount, let me know

I am going to revise the hold down/lock method to use toggle clamps once I get around to it. I have too many projects atm.