Builds Land Crusher Build Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So uh, if you are going to be stupid like me.....


And now it's dead again:
View attachment 2539414
1609354494109.gif
 
Oops, pic didn't attach. Here is the one small piece I wrapped. I will definitely keep you in the loop, if you do it yourself, it is super cheap. You can get enough to wrap the entire vehicle (and screw up some panels and have extra) for about 400 bucks...
View attachment 1799917

After about two years in the AZ sun, the vinyl wrap is definitely NOT a long term solution and would advise against wrapping anything considerable. The trim was easy enough, but I am REALLY glad I didn't wrap the whole rig. The vinyl has gotten brittle and the surface likes to hang on to dirt now. Keep that in mind if you plan on going this route.
 
After about two years in the AZ sun, the vinyl wrap is definitely NOT a long term solution and would advise against wrapping anything considerable. The trim was easy enough, but I am REALLY glad I didn't wrap the whole rig. The vinyl has gotten brittle and the surface likes to hang on to dirt now. Keep that in mind if you plan on going this route.
Glad I didn't spend $600 in materials and 3 days of my time trying to wrap my LC. Mine would probably hold up a little better due to living in a garage, but still brings the question of how long will it really last.
 
In case anyone is curious, you can get the front diff cover off with the diff still in the truck:
- All three mounts need to be removed, I left the aft upper bolted to the frame but removed the two bolts that fasten into the diff. This helped get the diff to rotate, exposing more of the cover.
- Front Drive Shaft needs to be removed so that the diff can rotate and be pushed away from the forward crossmember
- Was helpful to use a floorjack to lift as needed and let it move around

some pictures:
1610325111801.png

(ignore the stream of grease as my cv pukes it's guts out)
1610325053774.png

1610325021689.png


And to commemorate my massive failure, turned the old cover into a clock:
1610325131304.png

1610325142358.png
 
The 100 got some new bulbs: Diode Dynamics SL1's

After a lot of discussion, @knewstance convinced me to give these a try instead of doing a full projector retrofit. So far, I am REALLY glad I went this route. If you aren't familiar with the process of a full protector retrofit, have a look here:


These were $150 for the set, plug and play... sure beats the few hundred for the projectors and the risk of disintegrating headlight housing, which I antipiate after a long life in the AZ desert. These bulbs each pump out 1.6k lumen and are designed to output the light like a halogen bulb, that way the beam pattern stays true....they don't blind everyone like most of the cheap LED's do.

1611965031645.png


1611965047841.png

1611965055757.png

1611965066916.png
 
It's officially for sale... got someone coming to have a look this afternoon.

 
Sway bar part numbers for anyone who needs them in the future
(For future searching: 100 series sway bar bushings part numbers, sway bar, stabilizer bar)

FRONT
Sway Bar Bushing 48815-60111 QTY 2
Cushion Front Stabilizer 90948-01003 QTY 4
Cushion Retainer 90948-02180 QTY 4
Sway Bar Link Assy - L / R 48820-60032 QTY 2
Lock Nut 94184-61001 QTY 2
End Link Bolt 90119-10765 QTY 2
bushing bracket bolt ????

REAR
Sway Bar Bushing 48815-60140 QTY 2
Sway Bar Links 48802-60090 QTY 2
Link Stablizer Cushion 48817-30010 QTY 4
Link retainer Cush 1 90948-02126 QTY 4
Link Retainer Cush 2 90948-02127 QTY 2
Sway Bar Bush 90385-11021 QTY 2
Sway Bar Spacer 90560-10275 QTY 2
Link Retainer Nut 90179-08062 QTY 2
Lock Nut 94180-41000 QTY 2
sway bar bush bracket bolts 90119-08834 QTY 4
Rear lower/upper link bolts 90105-14123 QTY 4

Here are a few of the torque values I have written down...
FRONT:
-bolt (through stabilizer bar link and mount): 38ft lbf
-nut (on top of assembly): 18ft lbf

REAR:
-Bracket bolts: 13 ft lbf
-bolt (through stabilizer bar link & stabilizer bar): 19ft lbf
-nut (on top of assembly): 11 ft lbf
-stabilizer bar brackets: 13ft lbf
Curious out of all the bushings, are there ones more prone to wear and tear in general?
 
Curious out of all the bushings, are there ones more prone to wear and tear in general?
I'd say the set on the top of each end link... but that's pretty anecdotal. Personally, they are cheap enough that I wouldn't bother nit picking and replacing just the bad looking ones... worth the money to just take care of them all while you're in there.
 
The 100 went home with it's new owner today, sad to see it go but happy it went to someone who's excited about it!

I'll still be around, arguing and running amok, and working on the 80 that has absolutely stolen my heart.

edit: @CruiseLanderAZ 's 80
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom