Bearing repack or replacement
Thanks for everyone's input. Most of this is straight out of the FSM, with extra commentary here and there.
Procedure for front bearing repack or replacement and rotor replacement on Toyota Landcruiser UZJ100 series
Indications for service:
1. Bearing repack is part of a comprehensive preventative maintenance program, performed every 30,000 miles under typical driving conditions, more frequently under severe duty (high water crossings, heavy loads, etc).
2. Bearing replacement performed when bearings show signs of wear during routine inspection. Bearings that have been properly maintained may last in excess of 200,000 miles of use.
Here’s a link about wheel bearing inspection:
theautoist.com
Parts/supplies needed for the job:
2- Inner oil seals
2- Flange gaskets
2- Lock washers
2- Inner bearings and races (if indicated)
2- Outer bearings and races (if indicated)
MP hub bearing grease- a high quality conventional or synthetic
Brake cleaner- aerosol
Penetrating lubricant
You may need new snap rings if worn or damaged
The FSM calls for new flange nuts. These can be reused if they are not damaged
A clean work area- contamination is bad news for bearings
Lots of shop towels or paper towels
Tools needed:
Wheel chocks
Heavy duty floor or bottle jack- high lift type for SUV’s
Heavy duty jack stands
Lug wrench
Torque wrench
Regular screwdriver
Hammer
Brass bar
Sockets- 12 mm for brake line, 14 mm for flange nuts, 17 mm for brake caliper bolts, ?? mm for lug nuts, 54 mm for hub nuts
Link for 54 mm hub nut socket (it is a cheap socket- you get what you pay for, but it got the job done):
http://www.tooltopia.com/browseproducts/OTC-6612-Wheel-Bearing-Locknut-Socket---54mm-for-Toyota.html
Spring tension gauge (kitchen scale or fish scale can be used)
Outer snap ring pliers
FSM calls for special service tools to seat bearing races. This can be done without the SST’s, if caution is used.
Procedure:
1. The cone washers and flange can be difficult to remove. Spraying with some penetrating lubricant 2-3 days before the service can help.
2. Pick a side to start working on. Loosen lug nuts. Securely jack up vehicle according to owner’s manual. Remove wheel.
3. Remove the brake caliper, the brake line bracket, and securely support the caliper to the upper shock mount.
4. Using the snap ring expander, remove the snap ring on the end of the spindle.
5. Remove the 6 flange nuts and washers. Place the washers to the side, and replace the nuts to protect the stud threads.
6. The cone washers are tapered and seated into the flange holes around the studs. They can be removed by tapping on the ends of the studs with a brass bar and hammer, using caution not to damage the threads. It may take several passes around the flange, working on each stud in sequence, but you will see them pop free. You can also attempt to loosen them by tapping on the flange itself or placing a long socket over the studs against the flange and tapping repeatedly.
Here are a couple of threads discussing this:
Special Tools (home brew)
Trying to replace fronts disks but I can't remove the HUB Body
7. Remove the flange and gasket- they may be sealed together- the gasket is thin, standard gray gasket material.
8. The lock washer is thin metal and visible under the lock nut. Release the lock washer, using a screwdriver, by unbending the tabs.
9. Remove the lock nut.
10. Remove the lock washer.
11. Remove the adjusting nut.
12. Being careful not to damage the ABS speed sensor rotor and oil seal, remove the axle hub and rotor. The claw washer and outer bearing may fall out, so use caution that they are not damaged.
13. The oil seal is located on the back of the rotor. Remove it by prying it out with a screwdriver.
14. Remove the inner bearing from the axle hub.
At this point, the bearings can be cleaned and carefully inspected for abnormal wear. If they look OK, inspect the inner and outer races as well. If all is well, the inner and outer races do not have to be removed. Skip to step # 3 in re-assembly .If they are worn, proceed as follows:
15. Clean as much grease out of the axle hub as possible to aid visualization.
16. Using a brass bar and hammer, remove the outside bearing race. Be careful not to damage the ABS speed sensor rotor.
17. Using a brass bar and hammer, remove the inside bearing race.
18. Rotor replacement can be done at this point, if necessary.
a. Mount the axle hub with the disc in a soft jaw vice. Close vice until it holds disc, do not tighten further.
b. Remove the 5 bolts and separate the axle hub and disc.
Re-assembly
1. Install disc- install the 5 bolts to the axle hub Torque 54 ft-lb
2. Install bearing outer races- for both sides, I placed the old races on top of the new ones and gently worked around them, tapping into place. The inner one is deeper, so I had to gently use a punch to seat it all the way. A brass bar or punch will greatly reduce the risk of damage to the hub. Make sure the races are positioned so the thinner (tapered) edge is facing outward, otherwise the bearing won’t fit.
3. Pack bearings with MP grease. Use your hands, place them in a zip-lock, or use a bearing packer, but make sure the grease is worked in thoroughly. Avoid any dirt or contamination.
4. Coat the inside of the axle hub with MP grease, enough to settle in between the two bearings.
5. Install inner bearing and oil seal. Coat the lip of the oil seal with MP grease.
6. Install axle hub to steering knuckle. It should slide right into place, and fit squarely.
7. Install the outer bearing.
8. Install the claw washer.
9. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it to 43 ft-lbs.
10. Turn the axle hub several times to settle down the bearings.
11. Loosen the adjusting nut until it can be turned by hand.
12. Retighten the nut to 38-57 in-lbs (4-6 ft lbs). I did this by attaching the spring gauge 10 inches from the center of the nut and tightening to 6 lbs.
13. Check that there is no looseness on the bearing.
14. Using the spring gauge (fish scale), measure the preload of one of the wheel lugs in the 12 o’clock position. The preload should be between 9.5-15.0 lbs.
15. Install lock washer and the lock nut. Torque to 47 ft-lbs.
16. Check that the axle hub rotates smoothly and there is no looseness on the bearing.
17. Re-check the preload (9.5-15.0 lbs). Make sure you measure in the direction of forward wheel rotation. If not within the specified range, adjust it again with the adjusting nut.
18. Secure the lock nut by bending one of the lock washer teeth inward and the other teeth outward.
19. Place new gasket on the axle hub.
20. Install flange to the axle hub.
21. Install the 6 cone washers, flat washers, and nuts. Torque to 24 ft-lb.
22. Pull outward on the drive shaft and install the snap ring. Be careful- that thing can fly across a garage. Make sure there is not excessive play in the drive shaft and the snap ring is seated securely. If not, replace it.
23. Install grease cap.
24. Install brake caliper (now’s a good time for new pads if necessary). Torque caliper bolts 91 ft-lb.
25. Install flexible brake hose and bolt to steering knuckle (21 ft-lb).
26. Install front wheel (97 ft-lb)
27. Celebrate. Find some mud or something.
