Keeping Stock TC Drain Plug Tight

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1973Guppie

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Hoping someone can help out on this one. I am having a hell of a time keeping the stock TC drain plug tight. It seems to back off and come loose after about 2-3 hrs of driving. I am using this one from specter:

http://www.sor.com/sor/cat068.tam?xax=11605&page.ctx=cat068.tam

about half way down the page. I am using the stock gasket (metal) and have tried, locktite, permatex gasket, etc. with no luck. Was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Maybe go back to using the stock drain plug? I was thinking of using a large lockwasher to put some tension on the threads? Any help is appreciated. TC is an august of 73 FJ40.

Thanks,

Noah
73 FJ40
 
my gasket is not metal.. try that.. could help getting it back off also
 
double check the threads in the t-case itself...that soft alum might have stripped, and you'll never get it tight....

I likewise always had a tuff time getting mine loose....
 
You can use blue locktight. I wouldn't recommend the red unless you like to heat the transfer case bolt and surrounding area to about 450 degrees to remove. Also, when I was working in the trades, I saw guys use a yellow weatherstripping adhesive made by, I believe 3M. It goes on making a durable, non leaking seal and is easy to take off and clean up during the next oil change. We called t "elephant snot" :D .

Good luck
 
still can't get it tight after all these years, went out there yesterday and it was loose to the touch. Any ideas on a solution? It just always seems to come loose after a few weeks of driving.

this is a retarded problem to have. I think one of my cruiser buddies is fxxxing with me and coming over in the middle of the night and loosening s***.

Noah
 
safety wire it.

safetywire.webp
safetywire.webp
 
:eek:...what a s***ty lockwire job that is! Not even close to the proper way of doing it...but as you can see it looks like an experimental or ultralight, so it is their life.

Daryl
 
just out of curiosity, makes this example so horrible in your opinion? it is wired as to prevent the loosening of the fasteners which is the whole reason for doing it in the first place, right?

It's not mine, just pulled from www.images.google.com to show an example
 
:eek:...what a s***ty lockwire job that is! Not even close to the proper way of doing it...but as you can see it looks like an experimental or ultralight, so it is their life.

Daryl

ARe you sure? Sure looks correct to me.

spinner5-w.jpg


DCP_9066.jpg


http://www.donsbushcaddy.com/sitebu...rfiles/EaaArticleSafetyWiringTonyBingelis.pdf

just out of curiosity, makes this example so horrible in your opinion? it is wired as to prevent the loosening of the fasteners which is the whole reason for doing it in the first place, right?

It's not mine, just pulled from Google Images to show an example


X2
 
is that possible? or are you joking? how would I get a drain plug with a safety wire hole in it? I think next time I drain the oil I am going to let it drain completely overnight so the plug area is dry and try using some "good stuff" sealant, that stuff usually works well, along with a new plug gasket.
 
Hello, have some more coffee guys. Someone explain to me how you lockwire a single bolt. What the hell are you going to do, tap the TC to add another bolt so you can properly lockwire it? LOL

In all probability the threads have been compromised. I would put a new factory drain plug in and see if that holds. If not then you may need to go to a larger drain plug or an expansion rubber seal drain plug. If you need to tap to a larger size then you can find magnetic seal drain plugs here. I have purchased drain plugs for the oil pan and tranny and TC with the Neodymium magnet and they work as advertised. They do not come loose, at least not on my ride.

Magnetic Drain Plugs
 
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there are lots of ways to safetywire a single bolt. I used to roadrace motorcycles and we had to wire the fill & drain plugs and oil filter. For the filter the approved method is to use a worm/hose clamp on the filter and tie off from it to another stationary point. For the plugs you drill and tie off to a close stationary point. Heck, they even sell tabs that you can mount under a local fastener to provide this.

The allen-headed drain plugs do pose some creativity required but certainly not insurmountable. Personally, I'd just go back to the stock drain plug if it did not pose the same issues.

Have a little creativity there, Mr. B. You certainly have shown it on your truck.
 
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is that possible? or are you joking? how would I get a drain plug with a safety wire hole in it? I think next time I drain the oil I am going to let it drain completely overnight so the plug area is dry and try using some "good stuff" sealant, that stuff usually works well, along with a new plug gasket.

You can safety a single bolt. Basically you have to drill a hole in some part of the structure near it (like a rib on the T-case). I wouldn't go the safety wire method myself, as you'd have to drill the drain plug (kinda tricky, but possible) and a spot on the T-case.

attachment.php


There is one bolt here that the safety wire is not pulling on correctly (look at the bottom right). That safety wire is pulling *slightly* in the loosening direction. Also, the wire twist should be closer to the bolts, that big open space isn't exactly a preferred method. But: it would keep those bolts from coming too loose, but it's certainly not a good safety wire job. I would do it over if I had done it.

(I talk big, but it's been 5-6 years since I've used my A&P or worked on an airplane, so I bet mine would be UGLY if I went out and did one right now :hillbilly:)

Dan
 
pretty and functional are not necessarily inclusive. If it keeps the bolt from falling out, it worked IME.
 
You are exactly right Dan...also look at the top one, it also is loosening. I have been a aircraft mechanic for 20 years, licensed for 14, I now teach the trade.

I definitly would re-do that lockwire job, and if it was presented to me for my inspection prior to releasing the aircraft to service, the individual who performed it would not be very happy with my remarks as to the quality. :censor:

Daryl,
the guy who is very anal when it comes to repairing airplanes:)



You can safety a single bolt. Basically you have to drill a hole in some part of the structure near it (like a rib on the T-case). I wouldn't go the safety wire method myself, as you'd have to drill the drain plug (kinda tricky, but possible) and a spot on the T-case.

attachment.php


There is one bolt here that the safety wire is not pulling on correctly (look at the bottom right). That safety wire is pulling *slightly* in the loosening direction. Also, the wire twist should be closer to the bolts, that big open space isn't exactly a preferred method. But: it would keep those bolts from coming too loose, but it's certainly not a good safety wire job. I would do it over if I had done it.

(I talk big, but it's been 5-6 years since I've used my A&P or worked on an airplane, so I bet mine would be UGLY if I went out and did one right now :hillbilly:)

Dan
 
You can safety a single bolt. Basically you have to drill a hole in some part of the structure near it (like a rib on the T-case). I wouldn't go the safety wire method myself, as you'd have to drill the drain plug (kinda tricky, but possible) and a spot on the T-case.
Dan

My point was that you cannot lockwire a single bolt without having a secondary attachment point. I find the thought of lockwiring drain plugs on a 4x4 problematic at best given the propensity for dragging those bolts over obstacles that can easily render that lockwire into multiple elements leaving your drain plug back at square one.
 
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