[bsevans]

I've had a couple of request to give more detail on this setup. The hose is a steel braided -08 Parker "Tough Cover". The centerline distance between the fittings is 15" to 15.25". I made two, and they both fit. The short one is currently in place. The fittings are 37 Deg Flared Compression Tube Fitting, Tube X Male Metric For 1/2" Tube, M18 X 1.5 straight Pipe. McMaster-Carr P/N 4545K223 at a cost of $10.17 each (pg 163). The hose with two 90 degree crimp fittings installed plus two steel caps so I can remove the hose without having to remove the adapters was $35. About what you would pay at either MAF ($55) or SOR ($65). This hose is meant to carry hydraulic fluid that is -40 to 212 degrees. The fittings from McMaster-Carr have an outer steel washer with an inner rubber o-ring that seals against the tranny and transfer case housing.
McMaster-Carr

[Dusty 66]

The By pass Hose is cool Thanks for the Post ,


But the Wholey $Jit Look at the skidd plate!!!!

[lone gunman]

i already did the bypass, but i too thought holly $hit now thats a skid plate.

[4x4Poet]

Ya, you guys missed it. bsevans started a thread on it in the Hardcore forum:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=93447

I think I'll eventually purchase one. Great design. There's been a few posts for a group buy purchase to lower the price. Separate shipping to each buyer, no doubt.

[Brian in Oregon]

For those of us who are ignorant about the purpose of this hose, what are you bypassing with it?

[Brian in Oregon]

Oh, nevermind, found the answer here http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=93447

[JohnnyC]

nice bypass...ever think about making them and selling them?

would be nice to see $$$ go to a mudder

[dgangle]

For as much work as it took sourcing all this stuff and as nice and well-thought out virtually every part of your truck is, why the band-aid?

I realize it's a $6 seal and a little more work than most are willing or able, but why not just fix the problem?

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by dgangle

For as much work as it took sourcing all this stuff and as nice and well-thought out virtually every part of your truck is, why the band-aid?

I realize it's a $6 seal and a little more work than most are willing or able, but why not just fix the problem?

When I pull the tranny and transfer to rebuild them I will. I might add that the bandaid works quite well thank you. I do not see a downside to the bypass hose. A little more work - that's very humerous. Maybe you have a nice shop you can pull your vehicle in to work on. I can not clear the garage door much less jack the vehicle up, so all in vehicle work for the last 23 years has been done in the driveway which is paved with rock. At almost 62, I'm inclined to take the path of least resistance when on my back getting rock bruises.

[JohnnyC]

Originally Posted by bsevans

I'm inclined to take the path of least resistance.

x2

did you also have a leak between the transfer and tranny gasket?

if so..........does the bandaid fix that also?

[ducktapeguy]

I forgot to thank you bsevans for doing all the work on this. I also had a custom hose made which lookes exactly like yours. I just called up the nearest hydraulic hose shop and told them what I wanted, they had it made in a day. Cost me the same as I would've paid at MAF or SOR.

The difference between adding this hose and replacing that $6 seal is more than just a little more work. Even when I do get around to replacing the seal, I'm still going to leave the hose in place as added protection.

I realize it doesn't fix the cause of the problem, but the way I see it, it's cheaper than rebuilding a transfercase. You never know when the seal is going to fail. My seal wasn't leaking the first time I checked the fluid levels, but when i checked last week the tranny was overflowing. The problem is, unless you're crawling down there checking the fluid regularly, you're not going to catch it. It was just luck that I probably hadn't driven more than 50 miles at low speeds, so I doubt any damage had been done. Now that I'm driving more often I feel much safer knowing that at least my transfercase won't run dry.

[dgangle]

Originally Posted by bsevans

When I pull the tranny and transfer to rebuild them I will. I might add that the bandaid works quite well thank you. I do not see a downside to the bypass hose. A little more work - that's very humerous. Maybe you have a nice shop you can pull your vehicle in to work on. I can not clear the garage door much less jack the vehicle up, so all in vehicle work for the last 23 years has been done in the driveway which is paved with rock. At almost 62, I'm inclined to take the path of least resistance when on my back getting rock bruises.

I understand completely! No harm no foul. I have the place and tools and actually enjoy doing stuff like that. At least on my own stuff!

[tmarx]

Thanx for the post ! Now I can have some peace of mind untill the rebuild

[splitshot]

I've been wanting a skid plate like that for some time, and to find out Caid is right in my back yard.

Thanks bsevans

[ken_79-fj40]

Originally Posted by dgangle

For as much work as it took sourcing all this stuff and as nice and well-thought out virtually every part of your truck is, why the band-aid?

I realize it's a $6 seal and a little more work than most are willing or able, but why not just fix the problem?

I had bought the stuff to make a bypass hose for mine years ago for about $20 from a local hydraulic hose shop. 2 years ago I rebuilt the t-case and changed that seal. About 10k miles later it was leaking again. So I put the hose back on.

[rchandler]

Which way does the oil tend to go if seal is bad TC or tranny ?

[bsevans]

In a Landcruiser it always pumps from the transfer to the tranny. In a Jeep it is normally the other way around. It pumps from the unit that has the higher pressure to the unit with the lower pressure. The hose helps reduce the pressure differential and lets the excess pumped into the tranny drain back to the transfer case.

[handcannon]

Originally Posted by bsevans

When I pull the tranny and transfer to rebuild them I will. I might add that the bandaid works quite well thank you. I do not see a downside to the bypass hose. A little more work - that's very humerous. Maybe you have a nice shop you can pull your vehicle in to work on. I can not clear the garage door much less jack the vehicle up, so all in vehicle work for the last 23 years has been done in the driveway which is paved with rock. At almost 62, I'm inclined to take the path of least resistance when on my back getting rock bruises.

bsevens

You seem to have so many good ideas and info to share with us here on mud so maybe I can return the favor now. I am also having to lay on gravel to work under my 40 for now. Then--- I spied a floor pad that goes under an office chair. I tried it under my 40 and WOW, what a difference it made! The pad I have is the 1/4" thick type similar to plexiglass, without the little sharp carpet nubs on the back.

Hope this is helpful

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by handcannon

bsevens

You seem to have so many good ideas and info to share with us here on mud so maybe I can return the favor now. I am also having to lay on gravel to work under my 40 for now. Then--- I spied a floor pad that goes under an office chair. I tried it under my 40 and WOW, what a difference it made! The pad I have is the 1/4" thick type similar to plexiglass, without the little sharp carpet nubs on the back.

Hope this is helpful

Thanks, and that's a great idea. I'm going to Costco today.

[scott johnson]

Which seal is it that causes this? I'd like to have one on hand when I do my 4spd tranny swap in my 72 with the original transfer case. I might as well replace this seal while it's all torn apart. I think I'll add this bypass also as an extra precaution.

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by dgangle

For as much work as it took sourcing all this stuff and as nice and well-thought out virtually every part of your truck is, why the band-aid?

I realize it's a $6 seal and a little more work than most are willing or able, but why not just fix the problem?

x2, and I do not have a nice heated shop to work in. I would rather spend the energy on the repair vs. bypass.

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by rchandler

Which way does the oil tend to go if seal is bad TC or tranny ?

Originally Posted by bsevans

In a Landcruiser it always pumps from the transfer to the tranny. In a Jeep it is normally the other way around. It pumps from the unit that has the higher pressure to the unit with the lower pressure. The hose helps reduce the pressure differential and lets the excess pumped into the tranny drain back to the transfer case.

I believe when the seal is failing, it pumps to the tranny, and once the seal has fully failed it goes tranny to t-case...

Moral of the story: check fluid in both

[tlc4x]

I have one of these hoses for my old 4 speed I took out. It sounds like it would be advisable to put it in my 5 speed just in case.

[Teebag]

Yeah, would you guys continue to run with it anyways even after fixing the seal?

[MoCoNative]

I have a question, I have a leaking seal between the two, actually started leaking within 10,000 miles of replacement. But I have a PTO, toyota stock unit fitted to the transfer. So the hose will not run right. It is mentioned above that part of the issue is pressure. Will a hose between the two help at all? It probably won't allow the fluid to gravity feed back to the transfer, but would it equalize the pressure such that the transfer of fluid would be reduced.

Any insight on this, anyone?

[ducktapeguy]

I'm planning on leaving it on even after I fix the seal because there's no reason to take it off. I see no disadvantages to having the hose connected, it can only help if the seal does fail again.

I was also curious to know whether a pressure difference was the root cause behind the fluid transfer, so I felt around the transfercase vent and I didn't see a problem. So I suspect there must be another reason for the oil moving upward. I started to remove the tranny cover to get a better access at the vent, but ran out of time and had to button it all back up to drive it. Next time I take off the cover, I'm going to disassemble the vent and add a breather hose, so I'll know for sure if the vent is plugged. But my guess right now is that pressure differential is not the primary cause of the problem. Other than that bit of info, I can't really help you.

[inkpot]

I made my first one of these about 30 years ago for my 72 FJ-40. I went lo-tech. I drilled out the two inspection plugs and tapped a thread in them to fit a brass hose barb. Connect the barbs with 5/16 fuel line. Lasted for years. Never leaked. As long as the breather on the transfer is working, there is no pressure in this line, just gravity feed gear oil trickling from the transmission down to the transfer. Cost was under $10, and I did it with a hand drill, hand tap, and a bench vice. Only drawback to leaving it on permanently is just a minor nusiance value when checking fluid levels. John

[Teebag]

Ta Ink, that is how mine is at the moment.

[island45]

My seal have been shot because it always ran into the transfer. In that case the bypass hose didnt help at all. So I did the hose barb fittings and plumbed in a pump off of a 90 wt pump bottle, sorta like the ones for hand soap. It had a clear vinyl tube going back up to the tranny. Just every now and then, I would climb under and pump untill no more gear lube was moving through the line....I saw a picture of it on Landpimps gallery, so I'm thinking it must still be functional. Not a setup for serious off-road work, but it looked way easier than pulling everything apart.

[Blue77FJ40]

Bsevens, do you know if there is a fitting that fits directly into the fill holes without adapters? I have the MAF version, and to view/check the level of gear oil, I have to remove the adapter. This would also avoid using two wrenches.

Thanks, Dan