RUSH55
SILVER Star
The little dove had head gaskets go out and leak compression into the water jackets. The system would pressurize and blow half the coolant out of the expansion tank. No coolant in the oil.
Just get her drivable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemanarmy
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- Thread starter
- #402
don't ruin the Busch guy for me!!!
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- #403
So to recap:
Drove it last weekend, and it got way too hot....shooting steam out of the overflow bottle for a long time. Lost about a gallon of coolant (water) out of the overflow bottle in 10 miles of driving, and continued steaming and steaming after I shut it down
So, pulled the plugs to get a look...they look kinda beat, some show much darker than others, and some have buildup, 4/5 towards the back look the whitest....none look healthy, but are all gapped correctly (.034 ish). It does fire right up and runs great, revs healthy, does not smoke, and will run at 60mph all day. Pulls pretty hard for a 48 year old 2F......and I've never adjusted the valves, as that was on my to-do list until this overheating issue came along
The oil is right at the F mark and clean. Smells fine.
The rad/hoses/pump do not leak. I've been running straight water as I've been testing, and it does not look/feel oily or filmy
Fan spins at engine speed, no fan clutch and no thermostat.
But it will get too hot, even at idle in the driveway (but won't boil over until I drive it)
So
Did a compression test and got ( Front to rear ) 145, 143, 135, 140, 125, 145. A bit up and down but all within spec I believe.
What do yall think?!
Drove it last weekend, and it got way too hot....shooting steam out of the overflow bottle for a long time. Lost about a gallon of coolant (water) out of the overflow bottle in 10 miles of driving, and continued steaming and steaming after I shut it down
So, pulled the plugs to get a look...they look kinda beat, some show much darker than others, and some have buildup, 4/5 towards the back look the whitest....none look healthy, but are all gapped correctly (.034 ish). It does fire right up and runs great, revs healthy, does not smoke, and will run at 60mph all day. Pulls pretty hard for a 48 year old 2F......and I've never adjusted the valves, as that was on my to-do list until this overheating issue came along
The oil is right at the F mark and clean. Smells fine.
The rad/hoses/pump do not leak. I've been running straight water as I've been testing, and it does not look/feel oily or filmy
Fan spins at engine speed, no fan clutch and no thermostat.
But it will get too hot, even at idle in the driveway (but won't boil over until I drive it)
So
Did a compression test and got ( Front to rear ) 145, 143, 135, 140, 125, 145. A bit up and down but all within spec I believe.
What do yall think?!
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- #404
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
You running straight water?
Yout all air out?
I usually open petcock on Drivers side of block when i flush.
Yout all air out?
I usually open petcock on Drivers side of block when i flush.
Look up "RELD Head Gasket Tester Kit Combustion Leak Detector"
You can get on Amazon if you can't find locally.
Edit to add, number 5 looks like your issue..
I would do a leak down test to confirm where the issue is with #5. I have had mixed luck with the combustion gas die method.
So, with those numbers, the thought is #5 is leaking exhaust gas into the water and over heating it? Meaning cylinder gasket is blown there or or cracked head? My s***box Cherokee had a cracked head and was leaking exhaust into the coolant, but not over heating at all. Sounds like to me a rebuild is in order. New rings and have the head rebuilt.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Pull the head
- Thread starter
- #411
Yea, running straight water, cause its blowing it all out after a few miles or so, water or 50/50 makes no difference. Not wasting precious antifree!
and about the plug gap, I saw that factory is .031ish, so I opened them up just a bit, but not to 0.05
and I've had the DUI and fuel injection kit on for years, the overheating is a new-er thing
Pretty sure there are is no air in the cooling system. Its never been run dry, and I fill it up as it boils it out
even with the within spec compression? and no leaks, smoke, hiccups, or poor performance?
I'm just trying to make sure I've covered all my bases before the big surgery
and about the plug gap, I saw that factory is .031ish, so I opened them up just a bit, but not to 0.05
and I've had the DUI and fuel injection kit on for years, the overheating is a new-er thing
Pretty sure there are is no air in the cooling system. Its never been run dry, and I fill it up as it boils it out
even with the within spec compression? and no leaks, smoke, hiccups, or poor performance?
I'm just trying to make sure I've covered all my bases before the big surgery
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
How do you know the water pump is good? Maybe I missed something previously where you checked that.
Whenever I've had coolant (water) get in the combustion chamber the plug looked like this..
- Thread starter
- #414
Yea....that plug looked sus
And if the water pump impeller has failed, wouldn't that basically kill the pump/bearing?
And if the water pump impeller has failed, wouldn't that basically kill the pump/bearing?
The head gasket at #5 appears to be compromised.
The tell is that all of the others are close together and higher.
To verify, and i do think you should verify, use a combustion gas type head gasket checker as was mentioned above.
If any exhaust gas gets into the cooling system that will tell you for certain.
If you verify it and confirm combustion gases in the coolant, then you will need to pull the head. Check block for flat, and check head for cracks.
Have it magnafluxed, have it fly cut.
Personally i think its foolish to do all of that work and not pony up for a valve job, so it may be time to bite the bullet and do an overhaul in your driveway.
The tell is that all of the others are close together and higher.
To verify, and i do think you should verify, use a combustion gas type head gasket checker as was mentioned above.
If any exhaust gas gets into the cooling system that will tell you for certain.
If you verify it and confirm combustion gases in the coolant, then you will need to pull the head. Check block for flat, and check head for cracks.
Have it magnafluxed, have it fly cut.
Personally i think its foolish to do all of that work and not pony up for a valve job, so it may be time to bite the bullet and do an overhaul in your driveway.
- Thread starter
- #416
Oh yeah, if the head comes off it's getting a full rectal exam and makeover
Will check for combustion gasses and report back
Thanks!
Will check for combustion gasses and report back
Thanks!
You might be able to rent the combustion gas tester from your local Advanced.
I'd just order a head gasket and start pulling the head. It's not a complicated task. You're only delaying the inevitable at this point, all the evidence points to a blown HG. Plan to have the head checked for cracks and surfaced.
- Thread starter
- #419
Yep.
Gonna pull the head
I was reading back through this thread, and I forget what I've done to the truck and how time flies, and it sits in the garage most of the year.......clicking back to 2021 I mentioned it overheating and down on power....and here we are.
Am thinking back, I've probably only put 1000 miles on it in 5 years. Maybe 500.
Gonna pull the head
I was reading back through this thread, and I forget what I've done to the truck and how time flies, and it sits in the garage most of the year.......clicking back to 2021 I mentioned it overheating and down on power....and here we are.
Am thinking back, I've probably only put 1000 miles on it in 5 years. Maybe 500.
Yeah man, @Ming89FJ62 made reference to it in 2021 as you said...at the time, you mentioned something about bubbles in the overflow bottle. It's wild how time passes by...some of my projects have been stalled for years
Kind of stinks but hopefully it's just a bad HG and you can get on the road in short order. Get some remflex gaskets for the air intake/exhaust manifold while you are at it
