Just get her drivable (2 Viewers)

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I've had some throttle cable issues over the last few weeks, mainly due to my install errors a few years ago. I'm taking care of it now, but I'm looking for options to connect the throttle cable to the tbi throttle body arm studs (there are 3 of various diameters) Is there a generic 'kit' to help with this?

Thanks

IMG_20230130_174837737.webp
 
Figured out the throttle cable.

Onto the next issue.....jacked up the rear axle with the engine running and trans in N the other day and the passenger rear tire started to spin slowly. Is it supposed to do that?

It doesn't try to roll forward with all 4 tires on the ground with trans in N. I can stop the tire spinning with 1 hand.

Why would it do that?
 
The inertia of the free spinning input shaft cannot overcome the force of the weight of the vehicle on the ground (friction). Jack it up and get the tires off the ground now there’s a lot less resistance for the rotational force to overcome.

We do this with CAT 777 haul trucks on a regular basis when replacing diff and hub/finals oil. Each hub/final has a drain plug that doesn’t always line up correctly when the truck is brought in and parked in the shop, so instead of driving back and forth, we will jack up the wheel group that needs to have the drain plug position adjusted, a guy will get in the operator seat, start the truck, hold his foot on the brake, shift the transmission into neutral, and slowly release his foot from the brake until the lifted wheel group starts to spin. Once the drain plug reaches the 6 o’clock, the operator applies pressure to the brakes to stop the rotation.
 
RUSH55 said:
The inertia of the free spinning input shaft cannot overcome the force of the weight of the vehicle on the ground (friction). Jack it up and get the tires off the ground now there’s a lot less resistance for the rotational force to overcome.
Click to expand...
Listen to you getting all technical. :cheers:
 
RUSH55 said:
The inertia of the free spinning input shaft cannot overcome the force of the weight of the vehicle on the ground (friction). Jack it up and get the tires off the ground now there’s a lot less resistance for the rotational force to overcome.

We do this with CAT 777 haul trucks on a regular basis when replacing diff and hub/finals oil. Each hub/final has a drain plug that doesn’t always line up correctly when the truck is brought in and parked in the shop, so instead of driving back and forth, we will jack up the wheel group that needs to have the drain plug position adjusted, a guy will get in the operator seat, start the truck, hold his foot on the brake, shift the transmission into neutral, and slowly release his foot from the brake until the lifted wheel group starts to spin. Once the drain plug reaches the 6 o’clock, the operator applies pressure to the brakes to stop the rotation.
Click to expand...
GENUIS 🧐🤔😳😯😲😉😘🤣.
 
onemanarmy said:
yea....but decoupled via the clutch
when its sitting still, engine running in neutral, what is 'giving' or slipping to keep it from moving?
Click to expand...
Right, decoupled, but the clutch assembly is still bolted to the flywheel and rotating.
I don't know if this is the correct term, but "residual drag" comes to mind.
You are still getting some spin in the clutch disc, tranny, shaft, pinion, etc.
It is like the difference between taking a tight turn w/ an auto-locker w/ tranny in neutral vs in gear, but clutch pushed in. You would think it shouldn't make a difference - but it does!
 
Last edited:
timmyisinthewell said:
I was layin' down one night
I heard my papa tell my mama
Let that boy boogie woogie
It's in him
Got to come out....
And I felt goooood!!!!!!
John Lee Hooker and Canned Heat
Boogie Chiilen part 1
Click to expand...
Boom, boom, boom, boom!

Man, if you're not queuing up the Barry White, you might as well bust out the John Lee Hooker!

1703426949371.webp
 
timmyisinthewell said:
I was layin' down one night
I heard my papa tell my mama
Let that boy boogie woogie
It's in him
Got to come out....
And I felt goooood!!!!!!
John Lee Hooker and Canned Heat
Boogie Chiilen part 1
Click to expand...
 
Well we got that figured out ^
Thanks!

About 300 miles ago I replaced the rear pinion seal, and now its leaking again, worse.

I just used a Toyota seal at the time, but will be using the Marlin Crawler seal this time. How do I know when I have the new pinion nut torqued enough? Its been off before, not marked, so I don't have a referecene to get the preload correct.

Can this be done/tested with the diff still on the axle?

I don't want it to start leaking again after 100 miles.

Thanks!
 
onemanarmy said:
Well we got that figured out ^
Thanks!

About 300 miles ago I replaced the rear pinion seal, and now its leaking again, worse.

I just used a Toyota seal at the time, but will be using the Marlin Crawler seal this time. How do I know when I have the new pinion nut torqued enough? Its been off before, not marked, so I don't have a referecene to get the preload correct.

Can this be done/tested with the diff still on the axle?

I don't want it to start leaking again after 100 miles.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Did you check your shims before torqueing the pinion?
 
onemanarmy said:
Well we got that figured out ^
Thanks!

About 300 miles ago I replaced the rear pinion seal, and now its leaking again, worse.

I just used a Toyota seal at the time, but will be using the Marlin Crawler seal this time. How do I know when I have the new pinion nut torqued enough? Its been off before, not marked, so I don't have a referecene to get the preload correct.

Can this be done/tested with the diff still on the axle?

I don't want it to start leaking again after 100 miles.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You gots to check yo self before you wreck yo self - ask me how I know...

forum.ih8mud.com

Third Member Swap - DENIED!!!

Dammit!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: So I was getting ready to swap out my rear third member w/ a front third I got from a 1969 40... I was doing some reading in the FSM before hand and came up with these conclusions regarding pre-load: (originally posted here) The FSM has you set up the...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
shims?!
of course not! ha!
the last time I replaced the seal, I 'think' I made a mark to tighten the pinion nut back to the same spot, but can't be sure.
however, now that its leaking again, and I'll need to remove the pinion nut, it stands to reason that I won't be able to re-set it to factory specs with just a feel.
If I tighten the pinion nut just tight enough to make sure the pinion does not move around, and then maybe a few degrees more tight from that, what is my worry?
that the pinion can still move around under engine torque? is the pinion moving around causing the new leak?
is it really implying, to be 100% correct, that to replace a $14 seal that the R&P would need to be removed from the axle and a gear shop would need to be involved?

and then from the thread posted above, you have comments like this:

"If the bearings are not rough, run it.


Good luck!"

so yea, stumped
 
onemanarmy said:
shims?!
of course not! ha!
the last time I replaced the seal, I 'think' I made a mark to tighten the pinion nut back to the same spot, but can't be sure.
however, now that its leaking again, and I'll need to remove the pinion nut, it stands to reason that I won't be able to re-set it to factory specs with just a feel.
If I tighten the pinion nut just tight enough to make sure the pinion does not move around, and then maybe a few degrees more tight from that, what is my worry?
that the pinion can still move around under engine torque? is the pinion moving around causing the new leak?
is it really implying, to be 100% correct, that to replace a $14 seal that the R&P would need to be removed from the axle and a gear shop would need to be involved?

and then from the thread posted above, you have comments like this:

"If the bearings are not rough, run it.


Good luck!"

so yea, stumped
Click to expand...
What happened to me is that my shims spun, so putting the torque spec from the FSM in there created an excessive pre-load on the bearings.
I drove for a short distance and felt my third member (yes, that is exactly what she said), and was hot. Too hot. not good.
So I cooked those bearings.
My failure was not checking the shims, and then not checking my pinion pre-load. Either step would have shown me I was on the wrong path.
Does that help?
 
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