Was that head checked for cracks? Pressure test, Magnaflux or both?
Have you pulled spark plugs and inspected for signs of water still getting into your cylinders?
Just get her drivable
- Thread starter onemanarmy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Have you pulled spark plugs and inspected for signs of water still getting into your cylinders?
- Thread starter
- #522
It was supposed to be given the full rectal exam.
I paid for the services, but I did not have the ability to 100% check their work.
Not pulled plugs yet, I should have time to work on it some more later this week.
I paid for the services, but I did not have the ability to 100% check their work.
Not pulled plugs yet, I should have time to work on it some more later this week.
I'm not opposed to throwing the kitchen sink at a problem and ending up with an LS engine in my Toyota but it would be nice to see this through if for nothing else closure.
I bought a car that also had all "new" parts but had an overheating issue the PO couldn't resolve and he threw all kinds of interesting stuff at it. Long story short it had a gelling issue with what is assumed to be mixing incompatible antifreeze at some point and partially plugged the new radiator core, the simple feel the tanks with you hand test found that issue...
Good luck!
In my limited experience, the first thing any decent machine shop does is check for cracks. They don't want to waste their time either...
- Thread starter
- #526
Are you the new front man for Toyotamatt's operation?
Snow version? Is there a not-plastic snow version?
any updates? I am curious.
- Thread starter
- #529
I have a new 13lb rad cap to install!
.
should have some time later this week/weekend to run some tests
.
should have some time later this week/weekend to run some tests
- Thread starter
- #531
plans, one at a time:
1. triple check coolant is filled....at the block, rad, and try to burp it again, install new rad cap
2. add more JB Weld to manifold crack.,....more is better
3. hunt for hot spots as it heats up and after driving with temp gun
4. check for vac leaks with starting fluid, etc
5. if still overheating: new water pump and have rad checked/cleaned
6. still overheating: LS swap
1. triple check coolant is filled....at the block, rad, and try to burp it again, install new rad cap
2. add more JB Weld to manifold crack.,....more is better
3. hunt for hot spots as it heats up and after driving with temp gun
4. check for vac leaks with starting fluid, etc
5. if still overheating: new water pump and have rad checked/cleaned
6. still overheating: LS swap
- Thread starter
- #532
Installed new rad cap and topped off water at the head and rad
.
Sprayed carb cleaner all around, no audible change in idle speed
.
Let it idle for 10 minutes with some spirited throttle pulls
.
Top and bottom rad hose are the same temp. Both are too hot to hold and both are pressurized the same by feel. Head heat seems reasonable.
.
Top of rad is 180ish, it was hard to get a good reading at the bottom of the rad, but it read 100* lower? But again, upper and lower rad hose read the same temp.
.
After I shut it down, back of head was 180*, the front of the head was 205*
.
Not driven it yet.
.
.
Sprayed carb cleaner all around, no audible change in idle speed
.
Let it idle for 10 minutes with some spirited throttle pulls
.
Top and bottom rad hose are the same temp. Both are too hot to hold and both are pressurized the same by feel. Head heat seems reasonable.
.
Top of rad is 180ish, it was hard to get a good reading at the bottom of the rad, but it read 100* lower? But again, upper and lower rad hose read the same temp.
.
After I shut it down, back of head was 180*, the front of the head was 205*
.
Not driven it yet.
.
- Thread starter
- #533
More....did not change the emissivity of the gun, just using it for comparison....fresh caps on the vacuum ports on the TBI
..
..
- Thread starter
- #535
Went for a drive. Some city, some hiway.
Around town stop and go, 82*f ambient, tempt gauge gets up past half (again, for 10 years with same water pump and rad, it never got above a quarter hot)
Around town, the rad won't boil over. But temps get elevated and it 'feels' hot
Then went for a hiway run, 2 miles at 60mph. The temp gauge visiblly moved up to the 3/4 hot mark. When I came to a stop sign, I could hear the overflow tank bubbling.
Once I got home, the bubbling had stopped, but when I cut it off, the overflow tank began to bubble and it overflowed for about 2 minutes.
Then it cooled off enough.
(Same exact, to the T, symptoms from before)
Rad and or water pump next?
Top and bottom rad hoses appear to be same temp.
Highest temp I saw was 252*, at the factory temp gauge sender location.
.
Around town stop and go, 82*f ambient, tempt gauge gets up past half (again, for 10 years with same water pump and rad, it never got above a quarter hot)
Around town, the rad won't boil over. But temps get elevated and it 'feels' hot
Then went for a hiway run, 2 miles at 60mph. The temp gauge visiblly moved up to the 3/4 hot mark. When I came to a stop sign, I could hear the overflow tank bubbling.
Once I got home, the bubbling had stopped, but when I cut it off, the overflow tank began to bubble and it overflowed for about 2 minutes.
Then it cooled off enough.
(Same exact, to the T, symptoms from before)
Rad and or water pump next?
Top and bottom rad hoses appear to be same temp.
Highest temp I saw was 252*, at the factory temp gauge sender location.
.
Last edited:
. Gauge a lot cheaper than water pump.
If these 2 temperatures are accurate, replace your radiator. There's no way a flowing radiator has a 100degree difference across that small of an area. You've got a plugged up radiator. You said it was 10 years old. Replace it or get it professionally cleaned.
- Thread starter
- #538
I'm leaning rad now too. it only misbehaves at speed.
its also 50 years old I guess, it looks OG
HOWEVER, the upper and lower rad hoses are the same temp, no matter when I check them
?
rad and water pump are on the to-do list, cause why not!
its also 50 years old I guess, it looks OG
HOWEVER, the upper and lower rad hoses are the same temp, no matter when I check them
?
rad and water pump are on the to-do list, cause why not!
If the radiator were dumping heat to ambient air, the outlet (lower hose) would be cooler.
- Thread starter
- #540
I'm gonna get the rad checked regardless, but it seems to be flowing through? Just thinking out loud.
The belt driven fan is in fine shape and it spins freely (no fan clutch)
If it was clogged/obstructed, then the upper or lower would be noticably different regardless of fan or no fan? If the hot water can't get down to the lower hose, then wouldn't the lower hose be cooler?
But, yes with the fan going and proper water flow, it should show a temp difference in the upper and lower hose if its properly 'radiating'
parts cannon still has some powder in it.
The belt driven fan is in fine shape and it spins freely (no fan clutch)
If it was clogged/obstructed, then the upper or lower would be noticably different regardless of fan or no fan? If the hot water can't get down to the lower hose, then wouldn't the lower hose be cooler?
But, yes with the fan going and proper water flow, it should show a temp difference in the upper and lower hose if its properly 'radiating'
parts cannon still has some powder in it.